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Factory air 67 GTX - access to replace bulkhead and maybe dash harness?

AR67GTX

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In reference to my other thread: Voltage levels dropping when AC turned on in my 67 GTX?

Looks like my “P” bulkhead slot for circuit to Batt on the alternator is suffering from a loose female terminal. Looking up under the dash, the bulkhead is behind and shrouded by the AC/heater box. Last time I had most of the dash emptied out was about 20 years ago. I'm hoping someone has a better memory than me or has worked under dash on an air car recently. With the instrument cluster out, is there enough access to the bulkhead connector to pull it loose and work on it - or at least replace the dash harness if I have to without disturbing the HVAC system box.
 
Can it be done? sure.
But it aint gonna be fun.

I did it in a 1969 Charger. '

Pull the seats, steering column and plan on a few days minimum
 
Can it be done? sure.
But it aint gonna be fun.

I did it in a 1969 Charger. '

Pull the seats, steering column and plan on a few days minimum
I did it too... And didn't remove either of those items..... However, I was about forty years younger.... Today I would definitely pull the drivers seat seat... Pulling the column would give you a lot more room but it's not really necessary.... especially if you don't mind a little blood... :rofl:
 
From spending a few quality minutes laying under the dash and shining a light up there it looks like it’s mostly above the HVAC box so should be accessible with the instrument cluster out. But I’ll need to at least replace the bulkhead box itself (I think they are available separately) or the whole dash harness. It looks like the terminal bay is either melted some or the bottom just broken out so the terminal is not going to ever lock in tight again. The gunk inside is No-Ox conductive grease but the pile of residue below the bay is probably fried bulkhead material I suspect from when I pulled the terminal forward to see if it would lock in again.

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Five months replacing nearly the whole interior with a few interruptions to help my buddies on their cars and I got to drive it out for one run to cruise night, and now it’s back into the garage and disassembly again. :BangHead:

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Thanks for the reply’s.
 
If you decide to do the full harness pull the dash as an assembly... It's much easier & quicker than you think... You can have the dash out & on a bench in a couple hours.. Then replacing the harness is easy... And while you have it out any other maintenance can be easily performed at the same time...
 
If you decide to just do the connector block it can be done in car, not easy but doable.. Spend time straightening & tightening each terminal & it should be trouble free for years....
 
If you decide to do the full harness pull the dash as an assembly... It's much easier & quicker than you think... You can have the dash out & on a bench in a couple hours.. Then replacing the harness is easy... And while you have it out any other maintenance can be easily performed at the same time...

Thanks, but I don’t want to pull the windshield. The old guys who use to know how to install these things properly are just about all gone and mine was done just before I bought it a couple of decades ago. I stripped everything out of the dash (except HVAC box and harness) about 20 years ago so I’ll just go that route again. With the cluster, radio, ash tray, kick panels, glove box and some hvac duct and shields removed I think I can get to what I need to.
 
If you decide to just do the connector block it can be done in car, not easy but doable.. Spend time straightening & tightening each terminal & it should be trouble free for years....
I’ve been pondering that. Still have 57 year old wiring in the car but until this, it has been dead reliable. Everything works and hasn’t been cut up. I’m thinking it over.
 
I replaced the dash harness in my Satellite in the car without pulling the a/c box. Been a while so I don't recall the details. Replaced the original harness that I had cleaned previously due to melting the bulkhead connector.
 
Thanks, but I don’t want to pull the windshield. The old guys who use to know how to install these things properly are just about all gone and mine was done just before I bought it a couple of decades ago. I stripped everything out of the dash (except HVAC box and harness) about 20 years ago so I’ll just go that route again. With the cluster, radio, ash tray, kick panels, glove box and some hvac duct and shields removed I think I can get to what I need to.
Do what you feel is the best/easiest route, but you can usually pull the dash frame without pulling the windshield... 1/4" swivel sockets are your friend...

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in...MI8MGHws2ThwMVKACtBh2eoQCFEAQYAyABEgLnpvD_BwE
 
I’ve been pondering that. Still have 57 year old wiring in the car but until this, it has been dead reliable. Everything works and hasn’t been cut up. I’m thinking it over.
I think I’ll start out this way (just bulkhead replacement) as long as I don’t find any wire damage. If I run into wiring issues I’ll change course. I have some Packard terminals and even spare bulkhead plugs. After spending about $4,000 on the interior I would like to save the $700 cost of a new harness right now.
 
I have a repop dash harness for mine . Just not taken on that project yet . As it was not replaced when the car was done early 2000s

Pull column, and drivers seat and drivers side ac duct work and getting to most of the dash harness would not be hateful.

Keep in mind the AC harness is an extra harness not included with dash wiring
 
Thanks Bill. I’m going to see if a new bulkhead connector will take care of things first, if I don’t find any wire damage. I did my 66 a few years ago. I was a little surprised how many auxiliary harnesses there were used for options that had to be switched over.
 
Got the cluster and duct out and pushed the bulkhead block to the interior and quit for the day. I think I can get the bulkhead connector fished out to where I can switch the wiring OK. Main worry now is being able to push the connector back into the firewall and latch. I was surprised that even with the cluster and ductwork out of the way, the bulkhead was still mostly hidden behind the hvac box and direct sight. But committed now.
 
You may find as you suspect,the firewall plug melted in the "P" slot and will not hold the connector. I believe you can buy new ones. If they are not available, I have an unbroken plug from a 68 Charger harness that should clean up ok. I can chop off the wires for you if you need the plug. If you go that route, make sure you mark each wire so you get them back in the correct slot. You probably already know that but just going by colors will get you mixed up in a hurry.
 
You might be able to pull the connector through from the engine side using string looped through the clips. Seems like I had to do something like that because it was hard to reach and get enough pressure on it from inside to seat the clips.
 
You may find as you suspect,the firewall plug melted in the "P" slot and will not hold the connector. I believe you can buy new ones. If they are not available, I have an unbroken plug from a 68 Charger harness that should clean up ok. I can chop off the wires for you if you need the plug. If you go that route, make sure you mark each wire so you get them back in the correct slot. You probably already know that but just going by colors will get you mixed up in a hurry.

I already ordered a new bulkhead connector - they are available. Also ordered the middle plug just as a precaution, although I don’t see any damage on mine. I’ll probably tag each wire as a precaution.

Thanks
You might be able to pull the connector through from the engine side using string looped through the clips. Seems like I had to do something like that because it was hard to reach and get enough pressure on it from inside to seat the clips.
Thought about that - may try it. I struggled to get the one through in my 66 w/o AC and it was wide open.
 
Turns out it’s easier to get the bulkhead connector pulled down under the dash vs out through the instrument panel hole. Don’t think I could have gotten it out though without pulling the gauges - just too much other stuff in the way, namely bracing that has to be removed. New bulkhead connector supposed to be here today and then I can start swapping wires over.

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Got the wiring out and labeled. Doesn’t help that the replacement bulkhead connector doesn’t have the terminal bays labeled. Improvised.

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Also doesn’t help that the service manual engine side electrical diagram pictures the wire positions upside down. Very puzzling. And then I noticed the interior/dash electrical shows it correctly. Notice the locating “V” lug that locates to a V- notch in the bottom of the hole in the firewall.

Engine side:




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Interior side wire schematic (correct):


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