Fan(s) recommendations...3 inch depth max.

[biomedtechguy]

Single or dual, electric. I don't know if or how a mechanical fan would fit, but I'm open to that.
Aluminum 541 stroker 6bbl. build w/appx 700HP and 700 torque moving forward.
Warmed over 440 6bbl. doing power duty until then.
South Louisiana and Mississippi heat and humidity. Just added Vintage Air AC system.
Here's the catch:
Between the Cold Case radiator and CVF Wraptor serpentine belt and accessories system, I only have THREE INCHES of clearance.
Radiator specs:

Thanks for any replies.
I'll post what I get here, if it isn't something that is recommended in this thread.

 

[Jerry Hall]

With A/C dual fans. Wire so that one is thermally controlled, and when A/C is on, both run.

 

[biomedtechguy]

With A/C dual fans. Wire so that one is thermally controlled, and when A/C is on, both run.

Yes sir, I have that covered.
Both fans run regardless of any other circumstances on the GTO when the AC is on.
I started with a call to Cold Case, because they had a radiator for my wife's GTO.
No go for my Roadrunner. At over 3" deep, it won't fit.
Next call is CVF Racing, then Summit.
I need a fan(s) and shroud assembly that is less than 3" deep.

 

[slepr1]

I had the same issue with depth in my cuda. I went with 2.5" thick Spal fan set in a custom aluminum shroud from Summit. The fans attached to the shroud which gave it 3" total. They sell different thicknesses of fans. They also sell the fans with different CFM's which is important for that monster engine. They say you need 2500 cfm for a V8 but I went with around 3000 or a bit more.

 

[TN Mopar]

just went through this with my Charger
currently I have my fan directly on the radiator without a shroud (16" puller)
I don't like it but it works much better than the mechanical fan making the car more drivable
My solution is buying a 26 inch radiator and dual fans with shroud although I am working on the possibility of a custom offset shroud
You have the serpentine belts that I don't have so offset can clear my water pump pulley but wont help you

is it possible that 2 10" or 12" pusher fans would fit in front of the radiator?

 

[rebel513r]

have you looked at something like this?

https://the-fan-man.com/product/side-winder-electric-fan-kit/

no experience with it

 

[biomedtechguy]

is it possible that 2 10" or 12" pusher fans would fit in front of the radiator?

I don't want pusher fans, but thanks.
I'm going to call Summit Racing and see what they have.
Consensus so widespread I'd be a fool to deny, Spal fans seem to be the best, and with fans, they seem to have a premium price on premium fans, but if that assures me of reliability, performance no matter what the weather or circumstances, it's WELL worth it, because running hot or overheating has too many bad consequences.
My vendor for everything but the American Powertrain stuff swears by this non-Spal product:
https://www.affordablestreetrods.com/cci-1780-cooling-fan.html
It definitely will fit, and his recommendation is unwavering.
Cooling Components is the company.

 

[Dan64]

Bio, I ran into the same problem with my 64" Polara ,493" with CVF wraptor. Even less radiator to engine room in the early B bodies i believe. I couldn't go with a later k frame because car uses an Alterkation front end that i didn't want to hack up. Along with going from a stock 22" to a 26" Cold Case my solution was to move the cross member forward 3 1/2" and down 3/4" ( new USCT front lower radiator support). I used 2 Derale fans ( separate switches) in the Derale shroud. This gave me all the room i needed. On a 64' Polara you can't just move it forward a little, you got to go 3 1/2" because of the hood support hitting the top of the radiator. No good way to mount the radiator in front of the core support due to height . My car is a base model Polara ,nothing rare there and since i didn't have a problem cutting the hole for the max wedge hood scope, cutting down the hood spear, mini tubbing it, cutting rear frame for spring relocation ,ect, i didn't really feel too bad about moving the core support forward. I still have room for a vintage air condenser and the drier is mounted forward of the core support also ( Vintage air's 70-73 E body set up).

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks for the reply.
While some of the surgery you performed may be on my "possibility of doing" list, I'd certainly try the highly recommended fan and shroud assembly my vendor recommended before cutting my car.
I've looked at and spoken with Summit.
I'm ordering the 17" single 2 speed fan and shroud assembly from Cooling Components. 2,600 CFM
Using the Dakota Digital PAC-2800BT electronic fan control module.
He suggested a trinary pressure safety switch, high/low. I'm trying to learn more about this now.

 

[biomedtechguy]

have you looked at something like this?

https://the-fan-man.com/product/side-winder-electric-fan-kit/

no experience with it

No, but a great concept. Thanks
I've ordered the 17" fan and shroud assembly my vendor recommended.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I have a $200 Afco radiator and a single 16 inch Spal pusher with no shroud.Runs 185* on a HOT day!

 

[biomedtechguy]

Trigger pulled. Thanks Al, I'm trying to avoid a pusher fan. Appx 70% of rated CFM vs puller. Glad it works for you though!
I'm about to take the next step on troubleshooting the GTO running hot.
Dakota Digital tons o' stuff for Roadrunner supposed to ship later this week, including the PAC-2800BT electronic fan control module and 70 amp relay.
Oh..and the RTX series gauge system!
October 4th going to seem like it's here this weekend...
This year, I want to be ready to immerse myself in Cruisin the Coast mindset on DAY ONE.

 

[Derwud]

I got the Cold case fans to fit, they just didn't flow enough air. So I had a custom shroud made with 2 12 SPAL fans (real, not SPAL like) and it works so much better.
Yes, a tight fit!

 

[bearman]

With A/C dual fans. Wire so that one is thermally controlled, and when A/C is on, both run.

This is a must do.

 

[Dan64]

Thanks for the reply.
While some of the surgery you performed may be on my "possibility of doing" list, I'd certainly try the highly recommended fan and shroud assembly my vendor recommended before cutting my car.
I've looked at and spoken with Summit.
I'm ordering the 17" single 2 speed fan and shroud assembly from Cooling Components. 2,600 CFM
Using the Dakota Digital PAC-2800BT electronic fan control module.
He suggested a trinary pressure safety switch, high/low. I'm trying to learn more about this now.

I wouldn't think that you needed to get involved with doing any surgery, as the later b bodies have more room up front. I was sorta screwed, boxed in by my own use of a serpentine set up ,stroker and not wanting to move engine mounts back.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I wouldn't think that you needed to get involved with doing any surgery, as the later b bodies have more room up front.

In a way, I was alluding to the possibility of wider wheel tubs, and the "surgery" involved with stuffing huge rear tires in the rear fenderwells. Also I'm likely to add reinforcement to the radiator cradle support with the USCT brace, as part of the final prep to install the aluminum 541 stroker I have in the works.
BUT
Since you refocused me on the front radiator support area, and if I understand correctly, my 70 Roadrunner doesn't have to be cut on to accomplish having more space between the radiator and the Wraptor serpentine belt and pulleys system, can you spell that out in a little more detail please?

a custom shroud made with 2 12 SPAL fans

Beginning with the shop owner who is doing the work on my Roadrunner speaking highly of SPAL, as in "they're the best" I have taken note of any fans discussions and SPAL is the wide consensus as having the best reputation.
I may swap in SPAL fans on the GTO shroud if I find the ones on it now actually are the problem.
As far as my 3" space I have as of now on the Roadrunner, SPAL doesn't have anything for me.

 

[Dan64]

In a way, I was alluding to the possibility of wider wheel tubs, and the "surgery" involved with stuffing huge rear tires in the rear fenderwells. Also I'm likely to add reinforcement to the radiator cradle support with the USCT brace, as part of the final prep to install the aluminum 541 stroker I have in the works.
BUT
Since you refocused me on the front radiator support area, and if I understand correctly, my 70 Roadrunner doesn't have to be cut on to accomplish having more space between the radiator and the Wraptor serpentine belt and pulleys system, can you spell that out in a little more detail please?

Beginning with the shop owner who is doing the work on my Roadrunner speaking highly of SPAL, as in "they're the best" I have taken note of any fans discussions and SPAL is the wide consensus as having the best reputation.
I may swap in SPAL fans on the GTO shroud if I find the ones on it now actually are the problem.
As far as my 3" space I have as of now on the Roadrunner, SPAL doesn't have anything for me.

Where electric fans/shroud with a serpentine set up may be real tight but doable for your 70' RR , I just can't make it happen without moving something in my 64'. I'm told that early b bodies have even less room for fans then your 70'.

 

[Dan64]

Spal are good, even Derale uses Spal fans in some of their fan/shroud combos, mine are 13" Spal's moving something like 4000 cfm. Bio, i'll measure the total thickness of my 26" Cold Case and Derale set up. Ok, just checked, radiator with Derale fan/ shroud total is 6 1/4". Radiator is 65' to 70' C-body, #mop757A. Compare with your Cold Case dimensional numbers available on their website.

 

[Nate S]

I know you don’t want a pusher but remember the turbulence is better (better transfer) and the pressure is higher (better transfer). Also kinda ugly.

 

[SlinktRR]

I run 7 blade clutch fan with shroud and a stock radiator. Trick flow 240s and 499ci with 600hp and 625 lbft. Doesn't go over 200F sitting in 95F Texas heat. My old 383 with iron heads was much hotter all the time. The main thing I changed was I went with Mancini racing aluminum hi flow water pump, and aluminum heads. I think the pump was the main thing, my old motor had the stock iron pump which is pretty poor performance.