Actually.....the easiest way is to remove the ballast resistor, and join all three wires together.....blue & brown (that goes against every electrical law in the real world)
Fast EFI master kit troubleshooting
- Thread starter DblR
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70chall440
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There are some videos online that address just this issue, one of them uses a relay to make this all work which I used when I built a 69 Ply wagon for a guy that had a Fitech 6 barrel system. It seemed to work out well.
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
the fast booklet absolutely says no wires hooked to the coil but the 2 needed ones
DblR
Active Member
If I use the factory ignition they say to use the RPM module for cleaner noise. Thanks for checking on that. I've narrowed it down to correctly hooking up the 12 volt switched wire. The ECU needs constant 12 volt power.
I saw it and ordered a time delayed relay. That will work to get constant 12v to ECU.
DblR
Active Member
Hello kwigtx, I'm sure having a great time hooking this up to my once running car. I'm down to this situation about getting a constant 12v signal to the ECU during cranking with no lag. I'm not an electrician or ever gave a crap. But this particular ignition system is a bugger. I'm interested in your blue/brown wires solution and where to exactly locate them under the dash. Another question is if this system is hooked up jumping those wires do I even need the ballast resistor at all? Thanks for your help.
The blue & brown wires are the ones that are attached to the ballast resistor.
I am not conversant with the FAST system, but I would imagine that it is like the Holley Sniper, in that the ballast resistor is not required....hence.....just join all those wires together. That will give you the 'Hot' in both Ignition ON, and Cranking with the key.
A picture of two of the finished connection would be handy - once you remove the ballast resistor.
Don't worry about under the dash for now.
64fury74charger
Well-Known Member
I will throw this out there. I put the sniper on my Charger and decided to upgrade the starter relay to a 2 post ford style and that made it real easy to set up a clean relay to power up whatever needed clean 12 volts during cranking and running.
There is a little black box under the fuse block that has 8 relays in it and only using 3 right now. Simple and easy access if needed.
There is a little black box under the fuse block that has 8 relays in it and only using 3 right now. Simple and easy access if needed.
OP is not electrically minded, so I am trying to keep it simple for him.
Yours looks like some innovation is going on....well done for thinking outside the box.
matthon
Well-Known Member
I have FiTech, placed a Painless ground and power hub under the dash, as well as a ground hub next to the battery.
IGN run and IGN start both go to the power hub, and I feed the FiTech, coil, fusebox ignition accessories, and voltmeter from it.
Ground everything to the hubs and back to body/battery.
IGN run and IGN start both go to the power hub, and I feed the FiTech, coil, fusebox ignition accessories, and voltmeter from it.
Ground everything to the hubs and back to body/battery.
DblR
Active Member
Any reason I cant run direct from battery through fusible link to a toggle switch to ECU? I could turn on switch to get 12 volts constantly to ECU. Also use as anti theft.
Don't do that.
Use the ignition key as it should be used. You'll forget one day and leave it on.
matthon
Well-Known Member
For what it's worth, I bought a new dash harness years prior, when I went to efi I removed the old fusebox, bought a small Painless 7 circuit modern fusebox, wired it into the stock harness, mounted in stock location. 7 circuits is plenty and small enough to fit in stock location.
Denso alternator, MSD, factory connectors, basically made my own engine harness.
I also put ground hub in the trunk for the gas tank and in-tank pump/sending unit, ground wire run back to battery ground hub.
Denso alternator, MSD, factory connectors, basically made my own engine harness.
I also put ground hub in the trunk for the gas tank and in-tank pump/sending unit, ground wire run back to battery ground hub.
DblR
Active Member
I'm running out of sources of 12v constant. There's something about the ignition switch at the key that momentarily kills power while going to crank. You mentioned jumping ballest. It's a 4 pin. Will that stop the normal function of it? And could you draw a diagram of what it would look like? I'm so close to initial startup. All my troubles would have been minor and easy to fix if I would have got out of my own way LOL!! I've asked questions and you've been there and I give you a big SHOUT-OUT for that. Thanks for the advice and help.
DoubleR
I'll have a think about this while I am at work...BBL.
The ignition switch itself might be just worn out. It happens.
Have a look at this page - shows what happens when the engine is running....
Dave's Place - Dodge Electronic Ignition
Ballast Resistor
- 0.5 Ohm side provides voltage to coil when Ignition Switch is in RUN position. This resistance is used to prevent high current damage to the coil at low engine RPM.
- 5.0 Ohm side is used to protect the ECM by limiting primary side voltage.
DblR
Active Member
Thanks,
Can you explain how to jump the ballast to get a constant 12 volts. You mentioned that once and it intrigued me. I would like to get it there if possible. This old system is tricky. The switch is evil. There has to be a constant 12v wire somewhere after the switch all through the process of starting and returning back to run. It seems to be what this thing needs to operate all the features. From handheld to fuel pump.
Can you explain how to jump the ballast to get a constant 12 volts. You mentioned that once and it intrigued me. I would like to get it there if possible. This old system is tricky. The switch is evil. There has to be a constant 12v wire somewhere after the switch all through the process of starting and returning back to run. It seems to be what this thing needs to operate all the features. From handheld to fuel pump.
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