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Finishing Lower Control Arms

I like the real thing ! .. and I live on a gravel road.
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Does it stay sticky? I like the gold finish too. Was going to ask about that.
 
I just read RestoRick's product description. It says it dries hard, unlike the original product. It's pretty expensive to dip the way dadsbee has done, unless you're doing multiple sets of LCA's. I may go with SEM chassis black instead.
 
JR_Charger said:
I just read RestoRick's product description. It says it dries hard, unlike the original product. It's pretty expensive to dip the way dadsbee has done, unless you're doing multiple sets of LCA's. I may go with SEM chassis black instead.
Click to expand...
You don’t dip it, it’s a spray on.
 
I’ve used this on my rear shock plates, it’s really holding up well.

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I've already done mine with SEM chassis black. I don't know how well SEM will hold up over the long haul but chassis black has unusually strong fumes.

I don't currently have the ability to spray anything. I'd have to dip like dadsbee.
 
JR_Charger said:
I've already done mine with SEM chassis black. I don't know how well SEM will hold up over the long haul but chassis black has unusually strong fumes.

I don't currently have the ability to spray anything. I'd have to dip like dadsbee.
Click to expand...
That makes sense, I actually like to find out if I can have it powder coat it that color.
 
I've thought about powder coating as well, but there's that rotating part the torsion bars slip into.
 
JR_Charger said:
I've thought about powder coating as well, but there's that rotating part the torsion bars slip into.
Click to expand...

When it's done right, powder coating is only a few mils thick and will not interfere with your torsion bars seating properly. The insets CAN be blocked / masked off, but keep in mind any unprotected metal will eventually invite corrosion. This is the only Powder **** pic I got of @68Runner's LCAs before my camera battery died. He has more on his build thread.

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They certainly are pretty. Doesn't the part the torsion bar goes into, which is supposed to rotate, get glued in place when the powder coat dries?
 
JR_Charger said:
They certainly are pretty. Doesn't the part the torsion bar goes into, which is supposed to rotate, get glued in place when the powder coat dries?
Click to expand...

Thank you! He's happy, and that's my main concern every time.

Powder doesn’t "dry" like wet paint, it's sprayed with a special gun onto a clean, previously media blasted surface to provide "tooth," and then placed into an oven to melt (cure). The powder particles then warm up to cross-link on a microscopic scale, self level and become very hard once the cure time is reached. Parts can go into service immediately once they cool off.

The end result is an environmentally friendly (low VOC) finish that actually bonds with the metal -- rather than riding on top like paint does -- available in thousands of colors and textures to fit virtually any application. Most don't realize the process has been around for decades but has filtered into nearly every manufacturer's finish line on metal nowadays.

Completely encapsulating metal with powder can affect very tight clearances, but a job done properly is only a few mils thick and generally doesn't interfere. One benefit of doing it that way can prevent the elements from reaching bare metal at all, a great barrier from future rust/corrosion that will preserve it for literally decades.

You may need a couple raps from a rubber hammer to tap your torsion bars out of the LCAs but they're unlikely to "stick" or peel powder off when they come apart. Never-seize is always recommended, especially on dissimilar metals.

I hope this helps! Give me a call if you have other questions along the way.
 
ATM the only problem I'm having is getting rid of some of the rust that's in places I can't get a wire brush on. The vinegar has taken most of the rust off but there's still a little hanging in there. Maybe it'll come off in another week or two.

I wish your operation was closer. I've got a lead on a guy who works at a custom bike shop and is into old Mopar though, so maybe it'll work out.
 
i powder coated mine after i boxed them in. they turned out awesome. they'll block off the hole for the torsion bar to sit as well as the strut rod and lower ball joint. I was able to rotate the adjuster fine with a little tap from a sand hammer. let them know what you want. Any good place will comply.

i didnt get a pic of the results , meh , they're on the car now.

my 2 cents

-hubba
 
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Almost there - I'm getting a black substance on the metal now, maybe it is time to change the vinegar?

I've got a little damage from trying to get the torsion bar adjuster bolts out with my impact wrench -

lower-control-arm-damgage-01.jpg


Anyone think this is worth worrying about?
 
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