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first start in 15 years, what oil?

sam dupont

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A friend's daughter has a low mileage survivor called me about starting it after 15 years without a start. I told her to change the oil and she asked: What kind? I grab whatever is handy, but it being someone else's car, I hesitated. I've never given any thought or research. I said 10-40 with splashes of Marvel and Sea Foam, but I am not a real mechanic, I just play one.
 
I'd start it with a blend of marvel and gas in the bowl. Squirt marvel into the cylinders. Let it run a few minutes and change oil.

Friend has a 1963 Galaxy 500 that has not run in 35 years. I'm going to help him get it running soon.
 
A friend's daughter has a low mileage survivor called me about starting it after 15 years without a start. I told her to change the oil and she asked: What kind? I grab whatever is handy, but it being someone else's car, I hesitated. I've never given any thought or research. I said 10-40 with splashes of Marvel and Sea Foam, but I am not a real mechanic, I just play one.

Flat tappet cam would require an oil with sufficient zinc. What car does she have?
 
it's a 1969 Scout with a 232 L6. I pulled the pan on my own long dormant Scout and there was an inch and a half of sludge in the bottom. I'm sure it would have mixed up and come out with an oil change, but I feel better that I did it
 
I would like to have it prelubed also!
Mike
She got it from a great uncle's estate 15 years ago. Back then, I pulled the tanks and cleaned them and the carb. She drove it for a while, but quit driving it as it is not a highway vehicle. She is going to call me tonight and I will try to help her decide what she wants out of it and how much she can invest with time and or money. In stock form, it will accept 31x10.50 tires and that might help with highway speeds, but anything else is expensive. She is a ranch kid, so one more lever to work an overdrive won't bother her She has a good job and the fool Scout is worth the investment. .

I watched a low mileage 1969 Bronco 302 three speed near Custer sell at auction a week ago. Very solid looking and in original paint, rancher dings, but nothing hard. $36,000.
 
I'd change the oil (10-40) pull the spark plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery in the cylinders, let it set for a few beers then turn it over with the plugs out. This will also help pre-lube the engine. Screw in some fresh plugs and see what happens, zinc additive would be my recommendation as well to add to the new oil.
 
Valvoline vr1 racing oil has increased zinc. 5 quarts are less than $30 at Walmart. Amazon also. Other also make oil for flat tappet cams. I would go that route before mixing additive packages .
 
I have enjoyed starting a few motors up, after they have been stored for some years. Some of the tips I have gathered are:

* change the oil, so it lubricates the engine without damage, if you get lucky and it starts. a cheap insurance.
* don't use a synthetic oil, unless you add a ZDDP additive.
* change/inspect/add a fuel filter, in case the gas tank has rusty crud in it.
* replace fuel before starting, if over 5+ years old.

to give it a go:

a very simple method is simply to crank the motor (without the primary coil wire, so it will not start) until the oil pressure light goes out, or the oil pressure gauge begins to climb. When things are working properly, the oil pressure climbs after only 5-10 seconds of cranking.

If you're really worried about lubrication, or if the motor has sat for 10+ years, you may want to remove the distributor so you can insert an oil priming (5/16 hexagonal) shaft, and prime the engine manually operating only the oil pump using a power drill.

If you're even more worried or concerned about lubrication, you can remove the spark plugs, and squirt a tablespoon of any (i've used marvel mystery tranny) oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. This is a great step if the motor seems seized and won't turn over by starter motor, alone. Be sure to reinstall the spark pugs, prior to cranking, lest you squirt oil all over your fender wells. If the motor is indeed seized, be patient, and wait days, not hours, between attempts to free her.

Then, once the oil pressure is up, you can connect the primary coil wire and attempt to start it.

There is more one can do, in preparation after a long store, but after 20+ years, there are several other problems to resolve, not just fuel going rotten. So my procedure is to give it a go, and resolve what I observe to be broken as it runs, or attempts to run.
 
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I have had good luck using Seafoam to get all the schmutz out of the inside of the engine, and misting a little water down the carb while it is running to steam the carbon off of the rings.
After turning it over by hand to make sure no stuck valves
 
The oil in my '88 F350 has been in the engine since 2006... Only about 3k on that stuff.

I drove it back from California in 2015. I haven't run it for about five years.

It's on my list...
 
Some kinda sludge is better than no kinda sludge.... but a cheap jug of oil trumps all.
 
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