BeeKool
Well-Known Member
I'm not installing them togetherIf your installing engine and trans together why wasn't this done before it went in?
I'm not installing them togetherIf your installing engine and trans together why wasn't this done before it went in?
Th
They're the bolts that came with the converter.
I tried every conceivable combination. Was able to get 3 bolts in but never 4.
Pulled the motor and removed the fp. Removed the TC and grabbed the old tc.
The go will not line up with more than 3 holes on either.
Always 1/4 hole off in the last hole.
The farmer in my wants to simply drill the hole bigger. (If it was a Dakota I would have already)
But I figure I better do it proper.
So tomorrow I will find another do and take my 2 tcs and 1fp and go compare. Hopefully this will work.
Pulling the damn motor again by myself was a bit frustrating. I chipped some paint on my top radiator support. No biggy but still
What size bolts does the converter lugs have, 5/16" or 7/16"? I have flex plates for the 7/16" with the "small" 10" bolt circle if you need one, SFI approved. If you have it out and can lay the flex plate on the converter try all the positions and no fit you need another FP. I may be dreaming but I dimly recall some late model converters didn't have the offset lug, maybe lockup style?And for the record I've swapped 2 dozen engines, probably more, of all 3 makes and even some Diesel engines. And never never not once has this happened.
This is my 1st Chrysler R/B. My previous experience with Chrysler is 318s and 3.9L.
And boy was that simple in comparison. Lol
Even though I'm not into automatics, I remember a loose converter bolt sounding like a bottom end knock.What about blue locktight?
I've had these things come loose more than once.
Late model converter and fp was marked for offset matting and converter had no drain plug.What size bolts does the converter lugs have, 5/16" or 7/16"? I have flex plates for the 7/16" with the "small" 10" bolt circle if you need one, SFI approved. If you have it out and can lay the flex plate on the converter try all the positions and no fit you need another FP. I may be dreaming but I dimly recall some late model converters didn't have the offset lug, maybe lockup style?
What about blue locktight?
I've had these things come loose more than once.
The plate I have is beveled to accomadate the crank.Even though I'm not into automatics, I remember a loose converter bolt sounding like a bottom end knock.
Surely use some Loctite even if the bolts have serrations under the bolt head. I wouldn't trust that locking feature on it's own.
Blue will likely get you by but I wouldn't have a problem using red for the flex/convert bolts. Just use a bit of heat to remove.
Times have changed, so do parts I suppose.
With an offset crank flange bolt pattern are there flex plates available that you can install backwards and still get all six bolts in?
Did exactly as you said.What size bolts does the converter lugs have, 5/16" or 7/16"? I have flex plates for the 7/16" with the "small" 10" bolt circle if you need one, SFI approved. If you have it out and can lay the flex plate on the converter try all the positions and no fit you need another FP. I may be dreaming but I dimly recall some late model converters didn't have the offset lug, maybe lockup style?
Start a new thread stating facts and back it with photos and I'll take a look at it.....contact me by PM here.Should I take the photo and have a sticky thread made?
I just got back from a friend's place.
He had a dozen or so flexplate and not a damn one of them would work with this converter, every one of them would work with the old converter.
I'm going to try and get my money back from Summit.
Let this be a lesson, no more B & M products in my garage or on my farm again!
Should I take the photo and have a sticky thread made?