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For the Love for my Father, My 69 GTX Restoration

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Passenger side installed....The anti rattle spring is commonly placed on wrong. I always follow the service manual and the right side the tab is down and behind the shoe. The adjusters are commonly put in backwards(doesn't really matter) but just follow the manual. I leave the red springs as they are just in case I may have to remove the shoes. Once everything is bled and adjusted is when they will be dealt with.
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Driver side installed. Anti rattle spring is tab down and outside of brake shoe.
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--74-- Great pics... I'm trying to think of a word,, oh, ENVIOUS!
 
Shocks

These are 68 NOS standard shocks and are not correct for the HD suspension. However, the originals were toast and so far I have been unable to locate an HD set.
2585617 number on shock 2539240 1968 rear STANDARD
2585618 number on shock 2834892 1968-9 rear H.D.

Whenever, If ever I come across a set I will replace these but these are as close to original as I could get. I chem stripped the goldfish paint off and applied the correct semi gloss paint. OE shocks will have the name "Oriflow."

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More

Original hardware got black zinc. Correct blue factory installed markings(lol) Soon to be installed...Will talk about front shocks with the front suspension....
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NOS rear leaf springs hangers. Soaked in ER and rust treated. Nuts were sent out to get silver zinc just as they were as a NOS item. You will notice there are seven bushings and not eight....I left one in the box, lol!
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Front shackles

Same process as above. All hardware got black zinc...
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Incredible attention to detail! Thanks for sharing your story and this project. It must feel like quite an honor and bitter sweet to be able to restore a car that your father loved. I'm sure he's smiling with great pride as he watches your progress!
 
Wow want a fantastic story you father was a great man and dad .
The restoration is fantastic and will look amazing when complete .
 
Lower leaf spring shackle plates

The originals saw better days....I cleaned them up but they had pitting and poor part numbers/logo visible. I was able to locate a very nice used set. These had very minor pitting on the top and the shock stud does not matter once the shock is on. After these were on I acquired an NOS set, lol....Way it goes but these are not coming off...However, the leaf spring will hide those very minor pitted areas. The original U bolts threads got flattened after removal. I even wire wheel them and spray them with rust buster but that didn't keep the threads from getting flat. They are usable and a thread chaser can improve the threads but mine have to look brand new.

These U bolts came from Frank Badalson and they are spot on and the same goes for the locking nuts. They come with a protective finish and that has to be removed because originally they were natural steel. The first pic I made a boo boo but no biggie because they had to be cleaned up. Also, notice the specific cross hatching in the top of the U bolts. Two of my old U bolts had the white daubs on top showing they received proper torque.

The shocks washers came from Bill Rolik. The shock nut is a very specific locking nut and are hard to find. Fortunately, mine had both and they got zinc phosphate...
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Leaf springs

What an adventure these were. So I cleaned up the original springs to locate any markings. Then I ordered a complete rebuild kit. So I then documented the markings found and proceeded to start on the 7 leaf passenger side. Disassembled and brought every leaf to natural metal. A big no no here is to paint every leaf for multiple reasons. What I do is post a rust preventer on them made by permatex. You can buy it at oreillys etc it phosphates the surface. My springs had traces of black paint. So with the kit I restored the passenger side spring. Before I moved forward to the driver side I decided to check the spring of the spring.

I weigh about 220 and I stood onto of the spring. The dang spring almost flattened out, no kidding...No bouncing no jump, just stood on it. Called around for rearching and the only one local did cold arching, no bueno....Heat arching or no arching! So I called up Eaton spring and ordered a new set. This are made in America with American steel and they are pricey. The springs are close but required a bit of work. This is why you do not throw away parts. I mated old leaf to new leaf and made the correct changes and added the leafs with the part numbers. Burned a lot of rolloc disks, 6 drill bits, and a lot of sweat. So the rebuild kit was not a loss I just reused that on the Eaton springs.
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Ended up to be a waste of time but ohh well it happens...better now than on the car...Always check and recheck!

You can see black paint behind the markings and above under the rear end housing pad area...
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Eaton springs arrived and some of the differences.. Original spring is on the bottom of first pic.

Some of the new leafs had squared ends and they had to be rounded. The strap clamps were different. The last pic shows the correct one from Frank on the right and it has the tab to hold it in place. Hence is why I went through 6 high end drill bits. Spring steel is tough to drill through.
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Here they are restored and with the correct marking. They yellow/blue is passenger and the white/blue is the driver side. Originally, these got dipped...heck what parts didn't get dipped....I have always used an engine enamel paint, made by Duplicolor called low luster black. Most people do not think about it but springs generate a lot of heat and some paints just cannot handle any heat...So why gamble? It is about the same price...The pitted areas will be covered by the housing pad.
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Before I forget. NOS eye bushings were used and once in no one knows, lol. The center bolts had differences. The ones supplied in the kit versus the original on the far right varied in head shape and length. They are subtle and once in who would know. So a little playing around the news ones now look like the original. I reused the original nuts though!
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Rear end installed

I know everyone has their own way to approach this. Here is what I do. I install each spring, just the front hanger only and the rear hangers are on the body. Then I take my trusty jack and place the dana on top of it with a bunch of microfiber towels for protection. Next, I roll the rear end under the car and jack the dana as high as I can get it. Install each spring on the rear hanger and lower the dana into position. In goes the U bolts and shock plate and then goes on the shock. Key thing to remember is do not torque the eye bushing bolt until the car is completely done. I make a torque list etc...for post competition adjustments. I have tried it as one complete unit but it is bulky and awkward and risks damaging finishes....Easier my way when I do not have extra hands...My friends want to help all the time but I am just too picky....Maybe that is why I need moving blankets on the floor, lol...Down is easy but the up is a different story.
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