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Please don't misunderstand me here.
I do not want to pass along intentionally bad or sloppy habits in regards to tech issues.
I just think that in some cases, the "book" is pretty strict about some matters that actually have a greater manner of gray area where painting outside the lines isn't a death sentence.
More specific:
Alignment adjustments after ride height changes.
It sounds irresponsible and ignorant to completely dismiss the practice of rechecking alignment after a ride height change so that issue needs some clarification.
I am of the belief that a 1 inch change either direction usually doesn't result in a huge change in the alignment. These are not 4 wheel drive trucks where enthusiasts often aim for a 4 or 6 inch lift or the lowered sport truck crowd goes for a 5 or 6 inch drop. The range we often change is usually within 2 inches.
By design, our torsion bar and tie rod equipped cars do exhibit some "bump steer" traits that include some toe change as the suspension moves through the full range of travel. This means that along with caster and camber, the front of the tires move closer or further apart as the suspension goes up and down. TOE is one thing that wears tires out faster than anything. For years, the uneducated enthusiast looked at a car with 1 degree of NEGative camber and warned the driver of immediate inner edge wear that often never came. Radials can tolerate some of this because they flex and move better than Bias Ply tires. A car with zero camber but 1/8" of TOE out will wear the inside edges of the tires far quicker than one with 1 degree of negative camber and 1/8" to TOE in.
The suggestions and claims that I pass along here are most often from direct, personal experience, not from I heard a guy at a car show that said his Uncle thought it was the best.
Lots of well intentioned guys get on these forums and try to help but many of them are passing along what equates to old wive's tales.
Yes, I agree with Pnora. (I am often confused what that screen name is supposed to mean) The factory method for front end alignment begins with setting the ride height to factory specs. Where we differ is right from there. What if you don't want to have the car set to a stock height?
How about those suggestions for setting your ignition timing? The factory service manual has the numbers printed but what if your compression is different from stock? How about the camshaft? Carburetor or EFI? Do you have headers? You surely don't have Ethyl leaded fuel anymore. Once you deviate from 100% stock, the factory settings may not be appropriate.
Tire pressures....The stock 5 1/2" wheels and bias ply tires originally fitted to the car called for tires to be inflated to under 30 psi. The radials just about everyone has call for higher numbers.
One needs to be aware that all factory specs are a great blueprint if the car is 100% stock but once we make changes, the factory methods and numbers may not be right for you.
I do not want to pass along intentionally bad or sloppy habits in regards to tech issues.
I just think that in some cases, the "book" is pretty strict about some matters that actually have a greater manner of gray area where painting outside the lines isn't a death sentence.
More specific:
Alignment adjustments after ride height changes.
It sounds irresponsible and ignorant to completely dismiss the practice of rechecking alignment after a ride height change so that issue needs some clarification.
I am of the belief that a 1 inch change either direction usually doesn't result in a huge change in the alignment. These are not 4 wheel drive trucks where enthusiasts often aim for a 4 or 6 inch lift or the lowered sport truck crowd goes for a 5 or 6 inch drop. The range we often change is usually within 2 inches.
By design, our torsion bar and tie rod equipped cars do exhibit some "bump steer" traits that include some toe change as the suspension moves through the full range of travel. This means that along with caster and camber, the front of the tires move closer or further apart as the suspension goes up and down. TOE is one thing that wears tires out faster than anything. For years, the uneducated enthusiast looked at a car with 1 degree of NEGative camber and warned the driver of immediate inner edge wear that often never came. Radials can tolerate some of this because they flex and move better than Bias Ply tires. A car with zero camber but 1/8" of TOE out will wear the inside edges of the tires far quicker than one with 1 degree of negative camber and 1/8" to TOE in.
The suggestions and claims that I pass along here are most often from direct, personal experience, not from I heard a guy at a car show that said his Uncle thought it was the best.
Lots of well intentioned guys get on these forums and try to help but many of them are passing along what equates to old wive's tales.
Yes, I agree with Pnora. (I am often confused what that screen name is supposed to mean) The factory method for front end alignment begins with setting the ride height to factory specs. Where we differ is right from there. What if you don't want to have the car set to a stock height?
How about those suggestions for setting your ignition timing? The factory service manual has the numbers printed but what if your compression is different from stock? How about the camshaft? Carburetor or EFI? Do you have headers? You surely don't have Ethyl leaded fuel anymore. Once you deviate from 100% stock, the factory settings may not be appropriate.
Tire pressures....The stock 5 1/2" wheels and bias ply tires originally fitted to the car called for tires to be inflated to under 30 psi. The radials just about everyone has call for higher numbers.
One needs to be aware that all factory specs are a great blueprint if the car is 100% stock but once we make changes, the factory methods and numbers may not be right for you.
