very cool vintage photos mike
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Have you scaled you car yet ?
see what the rear weight bias is ?
you may not need 5+"'s of lift,
depends on how much traction & weight transfer you "actually need"
my old 68 RR 479ci B-Low deck wedge, full roller blah blah blah
it had CalTracs & OE leafs originally, alum. heads,
alum. serpentine pulleys, idler & 6 rib belts,
elec. 37gpm water pump, alum. pump housing, radiator,
2 Be-Cool elec. fans with a custom shroud
1 puller 16" 2950cfm & a 13" 2900cfm pusher just in case
alum. 7071 driveshaft, alum. MP 742 center section blah blah blah, aluminum all over the place,
battery in the trunk, Aeromotive Elec. Pump fuel system, MRE sliders on the rear of the leafs,
stock 383 Torsion bars, Capps tubular uca's & lca's & strutrods,
cheapo rancho drag shocks from Calvert,
fiberglass front & rear bumpers/w-alum. brackets & A12 lift off hood
it worked best lifted maybe about 3-1/2" IIRC, it ran better when it was limited to that level
it would 1.40 60 ft. at good prepped tracks on M/T 315 drag radials, they weren't exactly new,
it ran best of 9.77 @ 135 Sacramento Test & tune 100* summer day,
IIRC DA was in the high 3000's that day
it's 60 ft. high 1.20's 8.58 @ 156 on a 300 shot of N20
better air, better track prep still hot but DA like 2000...
Anyway it weighed 3520#'s, but had relatively a good rear weight bias
sorry I can remember the actual front to rear bias,
{like 52-53% front {1830-1865#'s} to 48-47% rear {1689-1654#'s} IIRC, don't quote me going on memory}
It ran well with a reworked 4200 stall, 1-1/2 turns of preload on the bars,
sometimes a bit more on the pass. side...
IMO it's all about what your specific combo likes
I would use a 70#-100# rear ballast bolted in the farthest point back in the trunk,
in certain areas/streets or tracks I would run, if I needed more weight transfer,
shocks were a big change latter, double adjustable reworked Lambs,
then later had to be really set stiff or the front would drop too fast & just spin...
It morphed to have different parts over the years, shock changes, spring changes,
tires etc., but that's where that specific car liked to be ran...
Tried to keep as much air out of the front of the car as possible,
forced ram/air on the scoop, sealed to the hood, a few free HP,
a {67 Camaro} spoiler on the front to keep air out from under it too
less wind drag/resistance & routed the air thru the rad
or away from the bottom of the car,
you'd be surprised how much lift & parachute effect having stuff opened up,
not sealed off, will have on the way the car drives/handles
& ET's slightly better too, makes it slightly better than a brick in aerodynamics
what works for one guys car may not be the right combo/set-up for yours
just a guideline not gospel...
I was really use to Ladders & 4 link coil-overs on my real racecars...
it was a little bit of a trail & error with the CalTracs,
I'm probably going to use them on my current 68 RR too,
if I don't go with a Strange S-60 Dana & ridetech 4 link for the street...
I'm a big proponent of make the car work forward not upwards,
if you can, don't waste all that energy going up, instead of out "forward"
of the staging beams...
I tested allot...
good luck & happy Moparing
