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Sorry, but some of the posts I'm reading here =
No idea, no tach. Factory dash has a (broken, lol) clock. If I find a decent vintage tach at Carlisle I may pick it up...Just out of curiosity, what rpm are you spinning at 65mph?
Well it might not be spot on but you can figure it out with some math. I got this formula from David Freiburger on Roadkill Garage:No idea, no tach. Factory dash has a (broken, lol) clock. If I find a decent vintage tach at Carlisle I may pick it up...
So just for example:Well it might not be spot on but you can figure it out with some math. I got this formula from David Freiburger on Roadkill Garage:
RPM = (mph X gear ratio X 336)/ rear tire diameter
Your post would be worth something IF you would elaborate. Anyone can be a critic.Sorry, but some of the posts I'm reading here =
It's worth exactly what it says. I'd prefer not to call out individuals.Your post would be worth something IF you would elaborate. Anyone can be a critic.
I don't have a running 318 car, but a 70 Charger is a heavy car.
OK, so yes - I am aware that "if you're worried about fuel economy, you need a new hobby". This isn't a "damn, my Charger sucks at fuel mileage!" thread - it's more a question for the group about state-of-tune.
I track the mileage (MPG) in all my vehicles as a matter of course. Not because I hyper-mile or anything like that (my size 14's are too heavy for that!)...but, like tracking my heart rate during workouts, it's a great indicator of mechanical problems and a dip in mileage for no apparent reason, makes me look at the vehicle to find out what's wrong...and fix it before any type of catastrophic failure.
That said, I'm getting enough miles on my Charger that I'm pretty confident that this is "what it gets" for MPG. 70 Charger, bone stock 318 2bbl, factory air cleaner (single snorkel), factory manifolds, dual exhaust. 904 automatic, 2.73 rear. Close-to-corret size tires - speedo reads 65, GPS on Waze shows an actual speed of 62. She's getting me a pretty consistent 13 mpg, country/mountain driving and highway driving combined. No racing - it's a cruiser, not a bracket machine - just...cruisin' around in the car I've wanted all my life.
So, for the others around - does 13 sound about right? She runs great, no flat spots, no hesitation, no stink of stupid-rich exhaust, good acceleration, no pinging, no lugging. Rolls freely, no brake drag, no bearing resistance. Or, does it sound low and I should start looking at state-of-tune stuff?
I'm not looking to turn this into a 20mpg car - that's not what this is about. Just...setting the baseline for "healthy MPG". If this is where it's happy...it is my baseline, and I go from here, no problem. But if people with a similar setup ARE getting 20mpg...I'll start digging and tuning. Healthy cars are happy cars!
Yup. I have 2 fresh 318s that one is carbureted and tuned with AFR meter and O2 sensors the other is EFI. Similar gears, 2.94, in a Coronet and Duster. They get 12-13MPG on nice 65 MPH open roads and occasional freeway. The 360 I just built for the Valiant (similarly tuned) get 12MPG with 3.21 gears. The 225 Dart with dual carbs and tuned correctly gets 18 MPG with 3.23 gears. The only way to get better is lower RPM (gears, tires, overdrive), smaller cubic inches, better Volumetric Efficiency of the engine (not contrary to popular belief this is the last place to look for more milage you can only get another maybe 5%-10% max better mileage by looking at just the engine), or reducing the energy require to roll down the road (skinnier tires, 0 degrees of toe in, reducing weight, better aerodynamics). That is about it, those are the 4 main inputs to the fuel required to power an engine down the road.