Fuel gauge conversion for 66 Charger

[fearthisrocket]

Anyone with pics of how the IVR3 is to be hooked up and what has to be done to the inside of the fuel gauge to eliminate the points? TIA

 

[quatro]

Here is one manual. http://rt-eng.com/rte/images/e/e5/LimiterManualIVR3_D.pdf
Bay it here: http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_limiter
I belive many install solid state 5V regulator, type 7805 or similar
Some have also installed UBEC regulator http://www.ebay.com/itm/3A-UBEC-5V-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b01ecb9da

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looks like there is a different install on 66-67 chargers. http://www.chargersourceguide.com/voltagelimiter.html

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JC auto also offers Services http://www.jcauto.com/services.html

 

[SwedCharger67]

If you want to save money you can easily make your own 12V->5V converter. Here I'm using a 7805 voltage regulator (https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/LM/LM7805.pdf).
Since the 7805 body with the screw hole is ground, there is no need for insulation or heatsink, very simple, and extremely low cost. Nothing needs to be done inside the fuel gauge, just don't feed the 12V to the original screw terminal, feed it instead into the 7805 circuit.
Here is what my installation looks like:

 

[quatro]

Hi Martin! For people that are not that handy with soldiering can this be used?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM7805-L7..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item1c43e51a60

 

[A383Wing]

If you want to save money you can easily make your own 12V->5V converter. Here I'm using a 7805 voltage regulator
Since the 7805 body with the screw hole is ground, there is no need for insulation or heatsink, very simple, and extremely low cost. Nothing needs to be done inside the fuel gauge, just don't feed the 12V to the original screw terminal, feed it instead into the 7805 circuit.

wrong, wrong, wrong....the original limiter needs to be removed from the inside of the fuel gauge, otherwise you will end up with a smoked transistor limiter that you just added to the back of your dash.

 

[SwedCharger67]

wrong, wrong, wrong....the original limiter needs to be removed from the inside of the fuel gauge, otherwise you will end up with a smoked transistor limiter that you just added to the back of your dash.

You are almost right, it's better to cut the 12V wire inside the fuel meter. It's about 5 years since I did this and thinking about it I'm almost sure I cut the 12V wire inside.

Leaving the 12V wire uncut it will most likely work as desired, but the 5V will unnecessarily also feed the 12V resistance wire to ground. The 7805 will not be smoked, it has built in overload protection.

The yellow arrow shows the wire that it's better to cut.

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Hi Martin! For people that are not that handy with soldiering can this be used?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM7805-L7...]Ys, looks like that one can be used as well.

 

[67 Mopar]

Hi Martin! For people that are not that handy with soldiering can this be used?

You can use that one, but you don't need 99% of the parts that come with it. For instance...

1) The Rectifier Bridge on this one is used to convert AC to DC. Your signal is already DC...

2) The Filter Caps are there to smooth out the holes (voltage loss) left by the previously mentioned Rectifier conversion circuit. In this case, the caps act like storage batteries which discharge, to help smooth out the voltage signal "somewhat", making it a little more continuous, as opposed to the hilly (choppy) up & down down signal left after rectification.

3) You really don't need an LED Indicator either.

4) I haven't seen the circuit, but the Resister on the card is undoubtedly there to regulate the voltage to the LED Indicator.

5) You only need one Output Port, the other pins are just fluff.


The first two images from the 66-67 Charger Source Guide link you posted are a pretty good. The first image shows the internal 12 VDC point style circuit removed and replaced with 7805 chip mounted "internally", as opposed to Martins "externally" mounted chip pictured above. Martin also used Caps in his installation, providing an extra level of insurance if your battery or terminal connections become sketchy.
The second image shows a store bought unit mounted to the back of the cluster, connecting to the existing terminals. Again the internal 12 VDC point style circuit would have been disabled or removed here.

 

[A383Wing]

the second image Mike is actually an old points limiter can with the 7805 transistor mounted to the outside and the capacitor mounted inside to protect the load

that is my dash I did that to

 

[SwedCharger67]

You can use that one, but you don't need 99% of the parts that come with it. For instance...

1) The Rectifier Bridge on this one is used to convert AC to DC. Your signal is already DC...

I think the idea here is to protect the board from accidental reversal of the 12v supply to it. It's almost a must for products that are going to be sold to the general public. It means increased production cost but probably a whole lot less returned, sooty boards...

... Martin also used Caps in his installation, providing an extra level of insurance if your battery or terminal connections become sketchy.

The 2 small caps that I'm using are actually recommended in the 7805 data sheet, they are there to eliminate the slight risk resonance in the circuit. I have run it though without the small caps and no problems, but it I think it's wiser to follow the data sheet.

 

[67 Mopar]

the second image Mike is actually an old points limiter can with the 7805 transistor mounted to the outside and the capacitor mounted inside to protect the load that is my dash I did that to

Roger that Bryan! Thanks for the clearification. At first glance I assumed it was one of those over the counter solid state replacement jobs, but you just made your own... Kudos to you my friend!

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I think the idea here is to protect the board from accidental reversal of the 12v supply to it. It's almost a must for products that are going to be sold to the general public. It means increased production cost but probably a whole lot less returned, sooty boards...

It's already marked... but yeah, there's no such thing as sailor proof. I doubt very much that the manufacture was thinking about that however. They're only concerned would be versatility of application... killing two birds with one stone.

The 2 small caps that I'm using are actually recommended in the 7805 data sheet, they are there to eliminate the slight risk resonance in the circuit. I have run it though without the small caps and no problems, but it I think it's wiser to follow the data sheet.

Cheap Insurance :yes:

 

[gibber]

The IVR-3 is the way to go in my opinion. It is a solid state limiter that acts as the original points type limiter. It puts 12V to the gauges for 2 seconds to get the fuel and oil pressure gauges moving, then it puts out 5V as did the original points. Much more stable, over voltage and under voltage protected, and is about bullet proof. While the IC limiter chips work, thry do generate alot of heat and only put out a constant 5V. Have to wait for fuel and oil press gauges to move, sometimes up to 20 seconds or more. The RTE limiters are the only ones I've used for the past 3 years in my 66/67 Charger gauge rebuilding business....The only modification I have made is that you do not need the red wire, simply attach the 12V input wire from your harness to either of the two male spade connectors on the IVR-3. Once you disable the points inside the fuel gauge, the 12V post is non operative. You also don't need the radio suppressor, as that was to eliminate radio interference from the noise the points made for the old AM radios. Now I use the screw from the radio suppressor and mount the limiter where the suppressor used to be. Good luck....

Mark

 

[67 Mopar]

There ya have it... I think that covers all the bases. Pick your poison...

 

[SwedCharger67]

Yes, I agree, myself I have no experience with the RTE device but a speedy activation with 2 seconds feeding 12V to get the pointers moving is clearly an advantage over the pure 5V output. Nice design feature in the RTE device, I wasn't aware of that.

 

[gibber]

The red LED light on the limiter stays steady for 2 seconds when power is applied to it, then flashes when the limiter is producing 5V. I have probably used over 100 of these limiters in the past three years and have only had one that needed replacement.

Mark

 

[Gpuller]

The RTE limiter is nice. Thanks gibber for hooking me up.

 

[gibber]

Glad to help!

 

[fearthisrocket]

Thanks Guys! Mark is the man! That is what I was looking for!

 

[jptix12738]

mark, i thought the gas and temp were the only ones to use 5 volts. The reason I say that is that my temp and gas dont work. my oil pressure gauge does..
Any thoughts on this?/ Thanks, jim

 

[A383Wing]

fuel, oil, and water temp gauges all use 5v for them to operate

so either the gauges are burned up, or the senders are bad

 

[Gpuller]

Should be able to ground the temp sender wire for a moment with the key on. If the gauge goes to H then your sender is bad.