Fusible links...any opinions?

[miller]

Or, is this a big can of worms!
Just looking for opinions, good or bad, maybe even why.

Considering 'em, the 16 gauge (Dorman), for 12 gauge wires. Yeah, on my parallel wiring job.

Thanks in advance!
Hey! Put that club down! Ha!

 

[AMX364]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003G8IK82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Blue Sea Systems SafetyHub 100 Fuse Block
The Safety Hub 100 combines an ignition protected fuse block and an integrated connecting plug. It is safe for use on gasoline powered boats, reduces wiring connections and consolidates up to seven fused circuits. Three 30A-200A MIDI/AMI fuses ideal for high-amp circuits including panel feeds, windlasses and stereo amplifiers Four 1A-200A ATO/ATC fuses- ideal for circuits including bilge pumps, alarms and clock memory.

 

[oldbee]

IMHO fusible links are fine, less extra wiring to be added. ( I am not an elec. engineer)

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

They defiantly do their job, just suck to change them on the road if needed.

 

[Zeppelin264]

Personally would never run them. Pain to change, and why with todays technology and parts available to you would you want to run one?

Yes it might be 1 or 2 extra wires, but wire everything neat/clean, and your fuse panel will never need re wiring!

 

[Mike67]

Unless you are trying to stay original, I would definitely go with a block/,inline fuse. A lot easier to service and service is usually required after the stores are all closed or you're out in the middle of BFE!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Guys, do you really have needed to change the fuse link so frequently to get worried about? If you did, then You have got BIG troubles and poor mantenience on your electric system.

BTW, if on the road get a short able to burn the fuse link, then you can replace it many times you want, but still have the problem what caused that! The fuse link gets overheat way before blown, so must be a long time short.

 

[miller]

Appreciate it, guys!
Understand the differences. Even so, also considering the fact, that on my 64, keeping the majority of the stock wiring in place, and pretty much bare bone system. Don't think I need the newer types of heavy fusing, like some do, with all the added components. Like I mentioned, not even plans on a radio.
Have been researching some, one place mentioning using 'bullet' connectors to join the wire to the link. At least that would make it much easier to change out, if ever needed, and could toss a spare in the glove box.
Sure, looking at all options. Fully believe in keeping the system up, and in good shape. Majority of the system on the 64, despite age, still pretty good...and the 64 was not equipped with a fusible link. Just saying...

 

[AMX364]

When my alternator blew its guts out on the highway, the fusible link stayed intact. However the Amp gauge suddenly pegged over ALL the way, slammed on the brakes and pulled the battery wire from the battery. The lead end was melting, I had a rag in hand. **** happens, deal with it.

The later model cars, that you are driving uses several high capacity replaceable fuses. Instead of reinventing the wheel, it sometimes works better to steal others good ideas.

 

[747mopar]

I look at it like this... would you install a fuse in your home that in order to blow it had to literally BURN in half, I think not. Yes they've been used for years, yes they work and yes under the right circumstances they can start a fire. I use the single fuse blocks myself, they're fairly small and can be mounted just about anywhere.

 

[Mike67]

Definitley beats splitting a loom,yrying to splice two ( or more when it melts!) burnt wires in the middle of nowhere, as said earlier, **** happens!
Thes are unobtrusive and easy to service.

 

[miller]

When my alternator blew its guts out on the highway, the fusible link stayed intact.

Had to be pure frustrating! But, that sounds more like a mechanical issue with the alternator.

A fuse burns in half? Yeah, that's what they do. Believe me, I understand what your saying. Also considering that, a fusible link, allows limited spikes, and usually goes if there is 'something else' is wrong in the system. A fuse just goes, also for something else, besides too many amps.

Talked with my son, in Seattle, who is a Master Electrician, and asked him about the parallel wiring. Something he does all the time! Liked what he told me. Asking about the amps running through two parallel wires, opposed to one. Say if one is getting 20 amps, the two parallel gets 10 amps each, splitting the amp load.
Okay, you probably already knew that...I had to ask...so I could know for sure. Also puts an easier load on those fusible links.
Hate the stuff, but have to attempt to understand it, since it has to be had.

 

[Mike67]

Im a Master electrician as well, you technically could run 100 parallels and divide it equally as long as the wire is the same length, same material, same type.... the priblem is the potential of the source the rating of the connections at each end, which typically where the weak link is.
Conductivity & ampacity of a properly sized circuit in an electrical system depends mainly on 2 things, the integrity of the conductor & the pressure or clamping ability of the connections ( i.e. male& female connectors). If either of these are compromised the ability to handle the rated ampacity of the circuit is diminshed, which results in more heat being generated and other than a direct short is what causes fuses, fuseible links to blow.
Thats why you see a lot of melted bulkhead connectors and not burnt wires, thats where the heat is most significant @ the pressure connector.

 

[bm02tj]

They make slow blow fuses to take short spikes and easy to replace