Garage 360 build, how I do it

[JoePole]

This is Great DVW. Thanks for taking the time to share!!

 

[dvw]

These steps were completed last Saturday and Sunday morning. This weekend the oil pump, pan, timing cover, and heads will be installed. I'll go thru sealing, pushrod length, head torque. If there are any other questions ask. Many of you have already built engines, many have not. There are no dumb questions.
Doug

 

[wyrmrider]

thanks doug
great series

 

[Wietse]

Maybe more of a general question then on this specific build, but how much effect has chain slack on the cam timing once it has seen some stretch/wear after x-amount of running hours?
When building the engine we all check the cam timing and set it according the cam card, but what tolerance remains?
You have any experience in finding deviation in timing caused by chain stretch?
Or is this so small it can be ignored? (maybe only on race engine this comes in to play?)

Good informative series indeed.

 

[dvw]

Good question. The chain I used in this build was a Comp double roller. It's not as tight as i would have liked. However the cam degreed in dead on (106 on a110 intake C/L). My feeling is there is some retard always. Even a Jessel belt retards some. Thus some of the reasoning for installing cams advanced. The bottom line is without moving the cam and testing you would never know. Is there much gain to be had. My bet is not much.
Doug

 

[Derwud]

Thanks, great refresher here.. Hoping to build something similar soon!

 

[dvw]

Over the weekend got pretty much finished. Lets check piston to valve clearance. First 2 springs were swapped with light checking springs. Alternately the lifters could have been disassembled and shimmed solid and clay used on top of the piston. Then the head is removed. Clay thickness is measured. Either way you dont want the lifter to compress. The head was installed with the 4 bolts around the #1 cylinder. Install 2 lifters, pushrods and rockers. Set a dial indicator on the exh retainer (do int and exh separately). Clearance will always be closest on exh about 10 degrees btdc and intake 10 atdc. Rotate the crank slowly approaching these points. . Make sure you do not fell a bind. Push the retainer down with your finger and read the indicator. If there is over .100" continue to the 10 btdc degree mark. Then measure final clearance. Min .100". Now reset the indicator and check the intake, min .090" at 10 degrees atdc. Remove the head, reinstall the springs. Starting with a little rtv at the upper corner of the head gasket. I've tested doing it dry on my race motor that uses a crankcase vacuum pump. There can definately be a leak path at this area. Lube was applied to the treads and top side of the washer only, not the bottom. Chamfer on the washer faces the bolt head allowing clearance to the rolled fillet under the bolt head. The heads were torqued to spec. After setting 30 minutes each head bolt was loosened and retorqued. It's amazing how much further the bolt tightens. I do this on every engine.
Doug

 

[dvw]

As a little side note. The heads were checked for volume. Edelbrock says 58cc. Let's check. A 1/4" plexiglass plate with a hole drilled in it is affixed to the head with a swab of grease to seal it. Set the head tilted slightly with the hole at the high side. This is so air can escape when filled. A burette is filled to 100cc. I use washer fluid as it's easy to see and clean up. The burette outlet fills the hole in the plate. Fill the head untill there are no air bubbles. You may have to tilt the head. Now read the burnette. This number is your chamber volume. In this case Edelbrock lied. They are 60cc.
Doug

 

[Wietse]

Good question. The chain I used in this build was a Comp double roller. It's not as tight as i would have liked. However the cam degreed in dead on (106 on a110 intake C/L). My feeling is there is some retard always. Even a Jessel belt retards some. Thus some of the reasoning for installing cams advanced. The bottom line is without moving the cam and testing you would never know. Is there much gain to be had. My bet is not much.
Doug

Indeed, guess there would be 2-3* gain in the worst case scenario to be had.
Ever used these gear systems? If they are available for Mopars?
Think i did see a Chevvy engine being build once with a gear kit instead of chain, noisy though.

 

[fratzog lover]

Awesome thread, Doug. Following it like a Blood hound. Thanks for sharing the free classroom education.

 

[Bbodycomeback]

Great info Doug. I am going to follow this step by step. Where did you get that tool for the cc. Reading and what head and valve sizedid you use

 

[wyrmrider]

yellow rose over on fabbo runs a gear drive

 

[Bbodycomeback]

Does he notice a difference in performance with gear drive

 

[dvw]

Cleaned also the engine parts with prepsol. Primed and then sprayed with Mopar factory blue. Finally received the pushrods and installed them. 1/2 turn preload then tightened the allen lock screws to 15lb/ft. Bent up new fuel lines to the carb. Valve covers are 5 bolt LA left over from the 318. The 5 bolt holes line up fine with 5/10 of the locations of the Magnum pattern. There was interference between the upper edge of the RPM intake and the covers. A little grinding remedied that issue. The throttle linkage bracket worked after bending the mounting tabs to align with the vertical intake bolt pattern. A hole drilled in the bracket eliminates the need for the ugly throttle return spring bracket. An extension was fabbed for the kick down rod. I used a piece of 1/4" brass pipe. The threads were cut off. Then the inside was tapped to match the kick down rod. This adapter was threaded into the original part with a small stud. There is a short extension to attach the throttle cable to the carb as well (pointed out by my finger). You'll also notice the angle of the Magnum manifold doesn't match the LA style water pump. This was solved with a 45 degree pipe fitting and cutting down the LA hose to fit. So now I await the distributor advance limiting plate and advance springs. The weight kit is here to add the Magnum external balance to the converter. Stay tuned and we'll tackle those items next.
Doug

 

[Plymouth71]

What happened to the next segment?

 

[dvw]

Wow old thread. This car has been on the road a few years. I welded the weight on the converter. Worked great no vibration. It was only 8.9-1 so the advance curve had about 13-15 degrees in the distributor, 35 total. Performance with the low gear set in the 904 coupled with the 3.23 was pretty good. By the seat of the pants it was an easy 13 second car. Customer was very happy. I actually did nearly identical car for another customer. Same color 318 Satellite convertible. The customer supplied a used previously rebuilt 440 and 727. In it went with a 3.55 and headers. To be honest they ran pretty much the same.
Doug