Garage Insulation/Heating

[1962savoy]

I use a hotdawd 40,000 btu hanging from the ceiling.it works real good and quiet!(cheap to!$400.00) Dont waste your time trying to insulate your doors withridged foam its not worth the effort. go get new doors that have injected foam in them but they are not all created equal. I have Horman doors and their a R6.9 door.
checkem out on the web!

 

[carsnguitars]

Some nice garage heaters..some day when I get natural gas!..and yeah good insulation.
I do the down and dirty method!..I put long sleaves couple small electric heaters one in front one behind the car and after working a bit , I don't even notice the cold. Of course does not get super cold in the PNW like other places in the county and I used old carpet to lay over the concrete for the ground work.
Once I get it warmed up the good insulation keeps it comfortable.

 

[scotts74birds]

I used foam sheets for the door, secured them with construction adhesive. I then covered them with FRP board. It is a light-weight fiberglass sheeting. But I did have to get my garage door springs tweeked alittle by a pro, to get the balance back. Leave that job to a pro! Then I installed a furnace from a scrapped mobile home. Cost me $75. It blows out the bottom, and takes in from the top. A ceiling fan also helps me. I put the furnace up on blocks because in a garage you dont want any flame, or ignition source below 24", since gas fumes tend to settle.

 

[GARCIAN1]

So jealous EV2 GTX, may i ask how much did it cost? and how much do you pay a month for gas?

 

[EV2 GTX]

So jealous EV2 GTX, may i ask how much did it cost? and how much do you pay a month for gas?

I paid around $1500 for it new and did the gas plumbing and install myself so I saved a few bucks there..as far as the heating bill goes it depends on so many factors but I haven't really got a good idea yet...it's the first winter for it and I'm not sure.

 

[GARCIAN1]

keep us posted

EV2 GTX, did I mention we are all jealous....lol....thanks for the reply ;keep us posted I would like to know how this winter fans out (gas cost) I'm fighting my accountant ( da wife) on doing this next year or so; so any update will be great value to us all. THX!:headbang:

 

[jessipup]

I just have one sheet of metal for my garage door and I went to home deopt and got that bubble wrap with silver reflective covering on both sides. If I remember right I got 24in rolls and just curt it to leinght and stuffed it right in. The aluminum frame holds it in place perfectly. I bought a roll of aluminum duct repair/sealer tape and did not have to use it. It made a big difference so the next year I doubled it up. The only thing I still want to do is cover it with either a light plastic sheeting or possable 1/4 ply and screw it down.
It not only keeps it much warmer in the winter but when I come home on a 100+ degree day here in texas it seems like it is a bunch cooler at least until I open the door then it's game over. It was a very clean, easy and low cost install.

 

[tpodwdog]

DAYUMMMMMMMMM EV....DATSA NICE GEEEEE-ROGGGGGGG !

ok... now we are getting into my area of experticse. ! i have been a carpenter all of my life...so take it from there.

obviously the greater the "R" value, the warmer it will be and less energy to keep it warm...and less energy to GET it warm. the best thing out there that i have seen and used yet is RADIANT FLOOR HEATING. this,,,for those that dont know...is plastic "pecs" TUBING RUNNING IN THE CONCRETE FLOOR. there is anti freeze in there to create heat from a boiler. but all of this is WORTHLESS if the walls and floors arent insulated well. INSULATION IS USELESS WITHOUT A HEAT SOURCE. if you have a block building, fur out the walls with 2x6's and use R-19 with a vapor barrier. a vapor barrier is just plastic visqueen. r-38 is good for the ceiling.if you plan on keeping the garage heated all the time...5/8 drywall is usually code for garages. mud and paint. if you let the garage get cold and then heat it up again , all your mudwork WILL crack,,,,( seen it a million times.) you can put wood trim over the drywall seams and not have to worry about cracked drywall....i suggest this method. caulk the wood to the drywall and paint...NO MORE WORRIES. remember,,,heat rises... and ceiling fans blowing downward will help tremendously. if you are building a new garage...DO IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME....or youll have nothing but issues later. i have made a living of fixing peoples screw ups and rush jobs....because it will cost 3 times as much if you dont do it right, and have to fix it later !!!!

*THIS HAS BEEN A MOPAR PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENT...and thank you for your support !

 

[scotts74birds]

I'm all with you tpodwdog! That is if we can start from the beginning. I'm in the boonies, and have acreage. My goal is a large pole-barn with a work area, and a cold storage area. For the work area will be a multi-fuel boiler that feeds pex under the concrete for radiant heat. With a warm floor,everything feels better, even as low as 60 degrees.

 

[MoparBill]

DAYUMMMMMMMMM EV....DATSA NICE GEEEEE-ROGGGGGGG !

ok... now we are getting into my area of experticse. ! i have been a carpenter all of my life...so take it from there.

obviously the greater the "R" value, the warmer it will be and less energy to keep it warm...and less energy to GET it warm. the best thing out there that i have seen and used yet is RADIANT FLOOR HEATING. this,,,for those that dont know...is plastic "pecs" TUBING RUNNING IN THE CONCRETE FLOOR. there is anti freeze in there to create heat from a boiler. but all of this is WORTHLESS if the walls and floors arent insulated well. INSULATION IS USELESS WITHOUT A HEAT SOURCE. if you have a block building, fur out the walls with 2x6's and use R-19 with a vapor barrier. a vapor barrier is just plastic visqueen. r-38 is good for the ceiling.if you plan on keeping the garage heated all the time...5/8 drywall is usually code for garages. mud and paint. if you let the garage get cold and then heat it up again , all your mudwork WILL crack,,,,( seen it a million times.) you can put wood trim over the drywall seams and not have to worry about cracked drywall....i suggest this method. caulk the wood to the drywall and paint...NO MORE WORRIES. remember,,,heat rises... and ceiling fans blowing downward will help tremendously. if you are building a new garage...DO IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME....or youll have nothing but issues later. i have made a living of fixing peoples screw ups and rush jobs....because it will cost 3 times as much if you dont do it right, and have to fix it later !!!!

*THIS HAS BEEN A MOPAR PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENT...and thank you for your support !

There are some issues you haven't addressed- In floor radiant heat works very well, if you heat the space continuously. Water in a concrete slab has to be run at a modest temperature so it doesn't crack the slab, therefore it will raise the temp of a garage very slowly. If you plan to be in your shop 7 days a week it is awesome, but if you are a weekend warrior it may not be a good investment. If you back your thermostat down to 50 degrees all week and crank it on the weekend in floor heat will take several hours going full steam ahead to bring the temp up.
I only heat my shop when I'm in there and after 10 years I have zero drywall cracks! I live south of Buffalo and the winters are fairly cold. My garage gets cold if I'm not out there for a few weeks, then I'll heat it for 2 or 3 days, then maybe not for a week.

 

[dave5237]

Hello. I have a natural gas unit I picked up used for $50. Its a 80,000 btu ( not much breaks on these units, Gas valve is the most expensive thing ). Heats my 24' by 24' garage in 10 minutes. Electric is expensive up north here. Of course my garage is fully insulated ( loft and all )

 

['69Net]

Gets that cold over there...Hey?

 

[MoparMitch]

When I designed my new shop 35X45 I used a three ton heat pump with LPG gas back up. I turn the heat down to 55 when Im not in there. But when I go out and turn it up It heats up pretty quick with gas, then the heat pump keeps it up to temp. Have 6 in walls with R19 and R30 in the ceiling. Also I installed Overhead roll up doors insulated with R6.9 foam inside. Makes a huge difference. My house actually uses more electricity than the shop does. I ran one duct overhead with vents , and also have ceiling fans to foce heat down. Shop has 10 ft cielings with one 15ft wide bay At 14ft cielings for lift.

 

[tpodwdog]

i am envyous. you guys have some beautiful garages to work on your gorgeous cars. i am thinking about building a garage in place of my 120 year old barn. anyone got a match???? lmao !

 

[Propwash]

Great thread guys.......learning a lot!

How about running the pipe from your main gas line to the furnace out in the garage?
I have a 3 stall attached garage I would like to mount in a 75,000 BTU forced air NG furnace and I'd like take on a DIY on installing it. I know i'd have to check on local codes, but does any one have a ballpark what I would need to do for the piping if had to run piping from the main line (opposite side of garage, in basement) all the way to the outside of the house and over to the opposite side of the garage? Does a guy run in the rafters in the basement, up and out into the garage, running across a wall. Or would I need to run it out of the basement, out into the garage, above the ceiling and then back down again to the furnace? Is galvanized pipe a must? What size?

 

[hunt2elk]

Prop - Don't ever use galvanized piping for gas lines. This is a code because the galvanizing can flake off, get in the main gas valve and cause it to stick open. Very dangerous. You can use black iron pipe, copper tubing, or probably the best a flexible stainless tube like Gastite or Tracpipe. This has become the most common within the last 10 years or so. It is easy to install and you have no joints buried in soffits, walls, or attics. Depending on the length to your garage you may want to convert your incoming regulater to a 2 lb. pressure system so as to able you to run a smaller diameter line. Either way this would be by far the most economical solution for purchasing gas in the garage.

 

[Propwash]

Prop - Don't ever use galvanized piping for gas lines. This is a code because the galvanizing can flake off, get in the main gas valve and cause it to stick open. Very dangerous. You can use black iron pipe, copper tubing, or probably the best a flexible stainless tube like Gastite or Tracpipe. This has become the most common within the last 10 years or so. It is easy to install and you have no joints buried in soffits, walls, or attics. Depending on the length to your garage you may want to convert your incoming regulater to a 2 lb. pressure system so as to able you to run a smaller diameter line. Either way this would be by far the most economical solution for purchasing gas in the garage.

Very much appreciated sir! Thanks for shedding some light on this. Sounds like it is going to be a bunch more easy than I expected.

 

[MoparBill]

Propwash- for 75,000 btu you need a 1/2" line, but because of the distance you should run a 3/4" line and tie it in to the main gasline coming in from the meter. I would use schedule 40 blackpipe, and teflon tape and pipe dope on the threads. You can run it in walls, just be sure to check every joint with soap bubbles to be sure there are no leaks before you close the wall up. Use B vent pipe if your flue goes through the ceiling or roof. Also be sure to make a drip leg just before the gas valve to catch any debris or condensation.

 

[Propwash]

Outstanding info Bill..........Thank you. All this great inforamtion you guys put forth, i'm thinking about drawing up a game plan this weekend and possibly buying material

Thanks again.

 

[Hemirunner]

There are some issues you haven't addressed- In floor radiant heat works very well, if you heat the space continuously. Water in a concrete slab has to be run at a modest temperature so it doesn't crack the slab, therefore it will raise the temp of a garage very slowly. If you plan to be in your shop 7 days a week it is awesome, but if you are a weekend warrior it may not be a good investment. If you back your thermostat down to 50 degrees all week and crank it on the weekend in floor heat will take several hours going full steam ahead to bring the temp up.
I only heat my shop when I'm in there and after 10 years I have zero drywall cracks! I live south of Buffalo and the winters are fairly cold. My garage gets cold if I'm not out there for a few weeks, then I'll heat it for 2 or 3 days, then maybe not for a week.

I have a friend that owns a block building ~3000sqft. It has radiant in floor heat and is on at 70 degrees 24/7 all through the midwest winters. The bills for running that system are usually less than $50 a month. I'm putting a similar system in my new 30x40 going up in the spring. For that kind of money, I can leave it on all winter for my convenience. NOTHING compares to working on warm concrete in the winter.