sam65
Well-Known Member
Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 Plus does !
Gen 3 Holley terminator x(max) users…no alternator wiring in harness???
- Thread starter What’s up dock
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Here's the Mechman
Cool, thanks. Looks like they change out the driver to the gm plug style.
I am never going to need that much amperage but the reviews and the price make it work for my build. I still haven't found a shop that can convert the factory piece.
I'm going to drop one off on Monday. I'll give you a review . He said one day to get the part.
I still want to control one with the holley controller. This will be for another project to come, 57 Desoto adventurer.
I still want to control one with the holley controller. This will be for another project to come, 57 Desoto adventurer.
I'd like to see the conversion when you get it done. I have one-wire alternators on every classic car. My hat's off to you and Nx Coupe for getting the original to work. That Desoto should be as cool as they come.
Are you using the edelbrock system?
Ok, sorry for the delay, but as promised, here are the screenshots. You have to go into your IO and setup a PWM- and name it Alternator or something similar. Then you go into your IO setup and set up your parameters for it to function. I set mine to a specific on rpm so while cranking, the alternator is not drawing any amperage. Then go into the PWM menu and set up the table like pictured. Play with the % to get the desired voltage you are looking for. I have included both HP and Termy screenshots for you. I used to charge for this info because it took a bit of work to get this figured out and functioning, but I'll help anyone on here with this kind of stuff as I have gotten a ton of help from this board to help me.
sam65
Well-Known Member
Yes on a 2017 5.7 in my 68 D 100 SWB
mopar5150
Well-Known Member
Hey Guys,
I had the same issue with a 6.1 install using the FAST FI system that came with no provision for charging. I used the Transpo C8313 heavy duty regulator and a factory alternator connector. It looks just like the standard electronic regulator but is designed for the higher field current of the new hemi unit. The photo shows the way it is wired in my '55 pickup. I have run this setup for 5 years without an issue. I have also seen the mopar adjustable regulator used for this. I am not sure of the part number on the alternator but attached a photo if that helps.
I had the same issue with a 6.1 install using the FAST FI system that came with no provision for charging. I used the Transpo C8313 heavy duty regulator and a factory alternator connector. It looks just like the standard electronic regulator but is designed for the higher field current of the new hemi unit. The photo shows the way it is wired in my '55 pickup. I have run this setup for 5 years without an issue. I have also seen the mopar adjustable regulator used for this. I am not sure of the part number on the alternator but attached a photo if that helps.
TTSaleen
Well-Known Member
Just want to say I also used this solution and it works great. I will suggest the 12V wire you use to trigger this should be thru a relay so you get a clean signal to the battery. At first I didn't do that and my lights would flicker as well as my volt gauge.
After putting in a relay and feeding it from battery, voltage is steady and no more light flickering.
fumanchu182
New Member
@Nxcoupe I'm relatively new to this forum and although I have a 69 Superbee I came here to research how to do a one wire setup for a drag race application I have with a 2012 Charger. We are using a Holley Dominator EFI that has the PWM+ outputs, does this mean I can negate the use of a MSD 4 in 1 relay to invert the PWM output or should I carry on as you have directed (this seems like the path of least resistance).
You COULD go directly from the dominator to the alternator but I don't like to do that since the pcm is fairly fragile. I use the PWM+ or - to control an MSD 4 position relay that in turn controls the alternator. Every MSD 4 position SS relay allows for either pwm- or pwm+ control so it is useful for a terminator or sniper since they only have low side control. It allows you to control a high circuit with a ground, or low side, circuit.
fumanchu182
New Member
Sounds good, my MSD 4 positions arrives today so Ill go this route. In regards to Dominator safety, 18.5 is the Max voltage that should be reintroduced into the system. In the tables would you happen to have an idea on what frequency % would bring us to the danger zone? The alternator part number is 04801834AB. To start I’m thinking hit the lowest value of 10% and go from there. Any general guidance other than that? If you want $ for your time/knowledge please let me know.
Go 50% dc. Either extreme will command either the highest or lowest voltage. 50 is middle of the road and allows you to go slightly up or down and see what the voltage does. So you can adjust accordingly. My alt uses a lower pw to make more voltage
Rjvb3
Well-Known Member
Fun fact... (somewhat relevant) Ensure you have the correct, older style, crankshaft position sensor installed as called out by the Holley instructions! If you use the newer 2011+ sensor the Terminator X PCM will loose RPM and stall as soon as the alternator begins to charge for some reason. Ask me how I know! Went through a few alternators and regulators chasing my tail trying to troubleshoot before I re-read that part of the instructions and swapped my CPS. Problem solved after that.
I noticed this as I am going through my slow-paced swap. I have a crate 6.4 and it is considered 2016 and up. I ordered my older crank position sensor as well.
Polara 500 707
Well-Known Member
I just came across this thread. I’m trying to figure out how to control my alternator in my 2006 6.1 hemi. I was told I wouldn’t be able to run the stock alternator. Are you saying I might be able to? I am running the terminator X. Motor has not been started yet. Any information is much appreciated!
Yes. You just need the alt connectors from the stock harness or buy them somewhere and then a pin out of the alternator terminals. The termy will control the pwm terminal. Should be a power and pwm with possibly a third terminal being a ground.
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