Gen2 Hemi experts. Review my refresh plan?
- Thread starter INTMD8
- Start date
6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
Very nice. Mine maxed out at 7600 on the dyno also.
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys.
Looked back on my notes.
Cam is 262/262 .428/.421 lobe lift, measured .658/.612 at the valve.
Valve springs are 1.4" diameter PSI 1575, titanium locks and retainers. Intake 245 seat, 613 open. Exhaust 256 seat, 598 open.
Also used Trend .165 Single taper 3/8 to 7/16 pushrods.
Looked back on my notes.
Cam is 262/262 .428/.421 lobe lift, measured .658/.612 at the valve.
Valve springs are 1.4" diameter PSI 1575, titanium locks and retainers. Intake 245 seat, 613 open. Exhaust 256 seat, 598 open.
Also used Trend .165 Single taper 3/8 to 7/16 pushrods.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I shift mine at 7600 and it feels like it wants to go higher
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
33 degrees total timing, minus 1.5deg at peak torque.
6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
Mine feels like it wants to go higher also but didn't make anymore power or torque on dyno after that, so no sense to spin it any higher.
Last edited:
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
No I don't mind at all, I'll tell you anything you would like to know about it 
I installed it at 107 icl so
IVO 24
IVC 58
EVO 68
EVC 14
I installed it at 107 icl so
IVO 24
IVC 58
EVO 68
EVC 14
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Just read thru all this one.
Great read guys. A lot of information ( almost to much ) for a novice like myself.
I intend to pull the engine in mine maybe next year or so. ( uses a little to much oil for me )
When i do i will ask A LOT of questions here.
The bottom end in my car has an old Kellogg crank. Which i see no reason to change . Its stock stroke .
Old mopar performance 12.5 pistons that have been cut down to something in the 11.2 to 11.5 range. And straight pump gas is out of the question if I have the timing up where it wants to be.
Mine is a real hemi car. I dont race the car and doubt i ever will. Hell......i rarely beat on the car at all. Its more of a cruiser than anything . So i am 100% fine with a pure stock build. A 100% true pump gas engine for me is mandatory when i do it.
Great read guys. A lot of information ( almost to much ) for a novice like myself.
I intend to pull the engine in mine maybe next year or so. ( uses a little to much oil for me )
When i do i will ask A LOT of questions here.
The bottom end in my car has an old Kellogg crank. Which i see no reason to change . Its stock stroke .
Old mopar performance 12.5 pistons that have been cut down to something in the 11.2 to 11.5 range. And straight pump gas is out of the question if I have the timing up where it wants to be.
Mine is a real hemi car. I dont race the car and doubt i ever will. Hell......i rarely beat on the car at all. Its more of a cruiser than anything . So i am 100% fine with a pure stock build. A 100% true pump gas engine for me is mandatory when i do it.
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
One thing to keep in mind with older pistons is they rarely achieve advertised compression, so you'll need to CC everything and calculate it. Compression may be much less than you think making 93 octane a possibility.
Also, there's power, oil control and engine longevity to be had with thinner more modern ring packs than the old stuff.
Also, there's power, oil control and engine longevity to be had with thinner more modern ring packs than the old stuff.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Thanks,
Im going off info the guy who built it back then. Ive known him for 30 years and trust in his thoughts of where the compression is now to be fairly accurate .
I plan to pull the engine down at some point,,,,,,sooner than later . And will decide then what to do at that time
He built a 340 for me years ago that ran amazing. And a big part of me thinks I will take the hemi back to him when Im ready . As I truly believe the issues it has are not his fault.
Im going off info the guy who built it back then. Ive known him for 30 years and trust in his thoughts of where the compression is now to be fairly accurate .
I plan to pull the engine down at some point,,,,,,sooner than later . And will decide then what to do at that time
He built a 340 for me years ago that ran amazing. And a big part of me thinks I will take the hemi back to him when Im ready . As I truly believe the issues it has are not his fault.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
What’s the pinout on the Coyote coils and how did you configure it in the Holley? I’m using the Holley coils and like the cleaner look you have going on.
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
Nice engine bay, I am a fan of symmetry.
Not sure what you have for horsepower but with what looks like forced induction and 2 injectors per cylinder I'll guess a lot.
You're probably better off functionally keeping the smart coils.
Not sure if the stock coyote coils would light that off.
But to do so you need two 554-112 coil drivers. The inputs to the drivers get pinned to their respective cylinders at the ecu.
J1-B21 1
J1-B15 2
J1-B22 3
J1-B16 4
J1-B23 5
J1-B17 6
J1-B24 7
J1-B18 8
On the output side of the drivers, I used a coyote coil harness, pulled out the pins and pinned them directly to the output driver connectors (to get the correct firing order at the coils vs how they are pinned for coyote).
Also need 2 ford ignition capacitors that plug into the coil harness.
Not sure what you have for horsepower but with what looks like forced induction and 2 injectors per cylinder I'll guess a lot.
You're probably better off functionally keeping the smart coils.
Not sure if the stock coyote coils would light that off.
But to do so you need two 554-112 coil drivers. The inputs to the drivers get pinned to their respective cylinders at the ecu.
J1-B21 1
J1-B15 2
J1-B22 3
J1-B16 4
J1-B23 5
J1-B17 6
J1-B24 7
J1-B18 8
On the output side of the drivers, I used a coyote coil harness, pulled out the pins and pinned them directly to the output driver connectors (to get the correct firing order at the coils vs how they are pinned for coyote).
Also need 2 ford ignition capacitors that plug into the coil harness.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
It made 900whp on 93 octane at 5500rpm before we had a water pump issue shut us down. It makes a ton more once it gets over 6000rpm according to the butt dyno. I’d guess 1250 at the tire or so. It’s been 5.75@126 in the 1/8 at 3950# but it’s only at 17psi so far.
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
Nice, that is flying
Chopper1967
Member
Definitely, those Coyote 5.0 coils are CLEAN!!
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
Made a few changes
Added HVH 1/2" spacers under the throttle bodies
Changed stock diameter lower pulley to ASP underdrive (it was blowing belts into low earth orbit) Way too much pulley ratio for the rpm.
Switched from 20w-50 Brad Penn to 5w-30 Royal Purple XPR. Also changed to synthetic trans and diff fluid.
Rebuilt tailpipes (they got smashed) with the largest radius bends I could fit.
Last thing that I'm sure made a difference to the results was removing 15x10 steel wheels and replaced with W23-ish 15x10 aluminum wheels.
Made quite a difference! Feels awesome on the street.
Added HVH 1/2" spacers under the throttle bodies
Changed stock diameter lower pulley to ASP underdrive (it was blowing belts into low earth orbit) Way too much pulley ratio for the rpm.
Switched from 20w-50 Brad Penn to 5w-30 Royal Purple XPR. Also changed to synthetic trans and diff fluid.
Rebuilt tailpipes (they got smashed) with the largest radius bends I could fit.
Last thing that I'm sure made a difference to the results was removing 15x10 steel wheels and replaced with W23-ish 15x10 aluminum wheels.
Made quite a difference! Feels awesome on the street.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Curious to know your thoughts prompting the oil change and the data comparison from afterwards.
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