• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

GIVE ME A BREAK

Amata Bene

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:53 AM
Joined
Jun 3, 2024
Messages
55
Reaction score
94
Location
USA
Dose any one know of a timing gear and chain set that may have used nylon or another type of hard polymer in the make up of the components? I have not found any, and I have checked dozens of listings at this point. The reason for my query is: while doing some prep work for header installation up to and including exhaust crossover block off. I found pieces of hard plastic in the lifter valley (see photo). "IF" there exist a cheap chain and gear set with plastic components, it is feasible that on failure pieces could have ended up in the lifter valley.
I know that more than likely "Bubba" probably dropped something down the intake or carb. While pulling v-covers and intake I was pleasantly surprised with how clean it all looked considering all the other tell-tell signs of someone attempting a craig's list rebuild. On closer inspection it was obvious that someone had been in there recently and clean both the intake, the v-covers, and rocker area. The cam on visual is tired and worn but no scoring. A scope of the cylinders shows basically the same with the exception of #4, raw oil coming from the top down, most likely valve guides. No surprise there. The piston tops are not beat up or dinged. I did spray copious amounts of carb cleaner in both the rocker and lifter valley before discovering the bits of plastic.
Now I'm standing here scratching my *** trying to figure out how far down do I need to go (isn't that a song). I'm thinking maybe a thorough flushing with some cleaning solvent and the pan off might work. Promise the wife I wouldn't tear the car down till the new shop is built. Just want to keep it running and her happy until I'm ready to do the complete rebuild. That will take it off the road for a year easy.

Lifter valley 1.jpg


Top end clean up 3.jpg
 
looks like peaces of valve seals to me
Just looked those up. And yes, yes it dose. Still want to do the flush and cross my fingers. Hopefully no blocked oil passages.
 
I'd worry more about the oil pick-up screen being restricted. And yes I've seen nylon coated 440 upper timing gears.
Doug
 
Last edited:
I'd worry more about the oil pick-up screen being restricted.
Doug
Yep. Can address that when I drop the pan and flush it. Think I just made a decision.
 
Well, times a wastin. Ain't doing nothing now but waiting a dam hurricane. Got the whole dam city shut down. Like they've never seen one. Hope they got body parts longer than their memories.
 
There are original timing gear sets that have a nylon/plastic top gear. I see no way any of that made it to the lifter valley. Valve guide seals have be the culprit. Original timing gear set pieces could make their way to the oil pan, but not the upper engine.
 
Change the valve seals. There should be a few threads on it here. Kim
Thanks I'll take a look at it. If I pull the heads it'll be super hard for me NOT to take them to the machine shop for a full work over and 3 angle grind. Not that that's a bad thing just wasn't planning on major engine work on this motor... yet. Trying to bankroll a BB & A727 build for the future of this car. Was gonna quietly save the 340 for a Swinger or Duster or something, maybe even an old Gremlin.
 
Compression test then pressurize cylinders one at a time to hold valve closed use spring remover then remove 1 spring at a time wiggle valves one at a time if loose then valve job time.
 
Last edited:
This is a poly 318 I have in an old dodge pickup I bought about 5 years ago. Ran pretty good but had a cold start knock. I pulled the motor, put it on a stand, pulled oil pan, front cover and valve covers. Oil pump screen was full of valve seals. I replaced valve seals, rods and mains, timing chain, water pump, and gaskets. I use the teflon/rubber seals on the intake and the umbrella on the exhaust. I am pretty sure the heads have never been off of it in 60 years, still can see the metal head gasket. Use air in the cylinder and pull off one spring at a time. If it is running nice now no reason to go farther than that. One thing I would do different I would pull and reseal the intake at that time (had to do later).

Every old mopar I pull apart has chunks of valve seals in the pan or they are rock hard and ready to break apart.

100_1656.jpeg
 
Bit and pieces of plastic, yep those be valve seals. Not uncommon. Routine job.
 
Yep. Can address that when I drop the pan and flush it. Think I just made a decision.
Got to looking at everything that had to be done to just drop the pan and it was easier to pull the motor with all that I have already removed. Got it on the stand a dropped the pan (see photo). Defiantly ate one seal and some other stuff. Still need to pull sump and do a closer inspection but I had to call it a night. We were getting about 3" of rain per hour at that time, it got worse. Been doing storm clean up aka lumber-jack work and taking care of some family business. Came to the shop a little while ago to get back at it. Got water overflowing from the toilets getting the septic pumped out. Gotta love 150% saturation. Gotta be something going on never done this before. Had to play plumber boy a day before the storm and replace a water heater at the house. Now I gotta play plumber boy again at the shop. I'm a welder not a plumber. GIMMIE A BREAK! It's raining a gain...still? Make it stop!

Lifter valley 7(oilpan).jpg


Pulling motor 6.jpg


Pulling motor 9.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top