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Got EFI questions?

fastmanefi

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I'm finally a member of this board. If anyone has questions about EFI just contact me. There's also an EFI series entitled "EFI for Dummies" in Chrysler Power mag. Those are reprints of what I have on the technical download page on my web site. I called them "All you wanted to know about EFI but were afraid to ask" 1 thru 5.

Fast Man EFI
 
There are several efi conversions available now, but the
Professional Products conversion looks very simple.
Would you recommend this conversion? I'm putting it on a big block
426 Hemi.
Thanks.
 
There are several efi conversions available now, but the
Professional Products conversion looks very simple.
Would you recommend this conversion? I'm putting it on a big block
426 Hemi.
Thanks.

I prefer port injection if possible. Any throttle body injection system (yes - even the EZ-EFI) still wets the manifold so manifold design matters more and cold starts are affected. You might read "All you wanted to know about EFI but was afraid to ask - 2" from my technical download page. This second chapter (it's only a few pages long) reviews the various EFI technologies in use today with no bias toward or against any vendor.

A word of caution however. Virtually all self tuning TB systems rely on engine vacuum to deduce engine load. You should have at least 8" of vacuum at idle for any throttle body system to work well. If you've "cammed up" the motor, then you'd be looking at upgrading to a port injection system.
 
I just installed the F.A.S.T. EFI on my 69 RR w/ 383 and 4 speed. It appears to be operating as designed but have only driven it about 20 miles so we will see. The only issue I have is the ampmeter stays way to the charge side although it is not pegged. I have the stock alternator. I do not believe the EFI could draw that many amps. In tank fuel pump? Any thoughts?
 
I'm an old fart and have learned some things about EFI etc due to necessity and well....gimme my carbs back! lol
 
Yes, EFI needs voltage. You didn't say which FAST system you have; XFI, EZ 1.0 or EZ 2.0. Anyway, I always recommend upgrading a stock alternator to a larger unit. The fuel pump (depending in the brand, which you didn't say) can draw 10 amps easy. Injectors pull about 1 amp each at the higher duty cycles but normally they're well under an amp at idle. The ECU is between 3 and 5 amps.

What did the amp meter do before you installed EFI, but with the head lights on? It should have been about in the same current draw.
 
It's the EZ 1.0 and the in-tank pump is the one that came with the kit. I didn't know they would pull that many amps. Don't recall what it showed w/ headlights on as I just bought the RR recently and haven't driven it much at night. I will be upgrading the alternator. Thanks for your help, FastmanEFI.
 
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