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Green bearing end play

andrewwoz

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How much, if any, end play should green bearings have? I noticed with the rear wheels off the ground I can rock the wheels a small bit (up/down and side to side), after pulling the axles out and putting a dial indicator on the side of the outer race I have .010" on both sides. Video below.

 
How many miles on them? Or are they new?

They are ball bearings so it's more than likely normal clearance. When warmed up I bet you would only get half of that. (Here comes the haters)
 
If you have that much play with the Green bearings, they are worn out but with the way you are testing them.....no, they are not wore out.....
 
New cars with ball bearings should have zero play.
I would apply the same logic to green bearings.
 
How many miles on them? Or are they new?

They are ball bearings so it's more than likely normal clearance. When warmed up I bet you would only get half of that. (Here comes the haters)
Lol, yeah very polarized as one descript.
 
end play should green bearings have
If you have some time, there are several threads on the site about these bearings around a mile long. Seem to recall the OEM tapered bearings having the adjustable end play plate were to be set around 10 - been some years so not sure anymore. My first green set went to crap after 700 miles; though the replacement set has been going for the last 2k, so far so good. Rumor had it there were some bad bearings at one time, though not the case anymore, so I heard. Check your install. Some required the thrust spacer be removed on sure grips I think.
Smart to be nitpicky on this if any doubt.
 
How many miles on them? Or are they new?

They are ball bearings so it's more than likely normal clearance. When warmed up I bet you would only get half of that. (Here comes the haters)

I'm not 100% sure as I did not install them but rough guess is 4-5k miles


If you have some time, there are several threads on the site about these bearings around a mile long. Seem to recall the OEM tapered bearings having the adjustable end play plate were to be set around 10 - been some years so not sure anymore. My first green set went to crap after 700 miles; though the replacement set has been going for the last 2k, so far so good. Rumor had it there were some bad bearings at one time, though not the case anymore, so I heard. Check your install. Some required the thrust spacer be removed on sure grips I think.
Smart to be nitpicky on this if any doubt.

I did read through a number of threads but did not see any info on tolerances.


I have some new timken bearings I was going to swap to but the rear end has a trutrac diff and I do not have the axle button, tried calling Eaton and they do not sell the part or have any info on it. If anyone happens to have dimensions for one and could share that would be appreciated, I have a lathe and can make one just prefer to avoid the trial and error phase.
 
Don't believe you should have that kind of play in them. Would replace them for sure. I have read they do not like side pressure as to sliding sideways or making hard turns over and over. Like those guys that like to slide their cars while burning the rubber off the tires. Put my set on and have jacked up the car when removing the tire and don't see any end play.
 
If they aren't leaking or noisy I wouldn't see any reason to worry about it.
Doug
 
Appreciate all the replies, I emailed dr diff about getting a thrust button and also shared the video, he agreed with everyone that has said it's fine, he said it looked normal for used green bearings.
 
New cars usually have 2 rows of balls.
Mike
Then they are NOT THE SAME.....GREEN BEARINGS are single row ball bearing. The two row ball bearings COULD BE DUPLEX angular contact bearings or not......what is the number stamped on the bearing race that you are referring to? I would be happy to look it up for you.... Bearing selection is not arbitrary, but based on application: RPM, temperature, radial and axial load.
IF the single row ball bearing you are referring to is a GREEN bearing, any STATIC or axial movement between the rolling element and the outer race (held stationary) or between the rolling element and the inner race is indicative of excessive wear and the bearing must be replaced. Axial forces in a single row ball bearing are absorbed by the components and are not visable. The axial movement can be absorbed by the outer race and the housing, limited by the external snap ring on the outer race. ......just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON
 
I'm not 100% sure as I did not install them but rough guess is 4-5k miles




I did read through a number of threads but did not see any info on tolerances.


I have some new timken bearings I was going to swap to but the rear end has a trutrac diff and I do not have the axle button, tried calling Eaton and they do not sell the part or have any info on it. If anyone happens to have dimensions for one and could share that would be appreciated, I have a lathe and can make one just prefer to avoid the trial and error phase.
Hello i too have just found out the hard way if you put in a tru trac and are using the timken bearings which is the standard mopar set up Eaton does not supply the thrust button with their units which is bulldust as it should be mandatory as it won't work without it unless you change over to green bearings yet chevy units come with the button standard regardless.and to top it all off they don't make the thrust button anymore apparently well that's second hand information as Eaton was too busy to reply to my emails.I was lucky enough to score one from Dr Diff
 
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