Green Bearings Axle Not Seating

[KidCoronet]

Sorry if this topic has been beat to death but was hoping to get your advice on my specific situation.

I have a 8 3/4 rear with a 742 Cone style Sure Grip and just had the new style Green Bearings installed on the axles (thanks Dr Diff). I was hoping to avoid opening things up to remove the thrust block and have read that if using stock axles it isn't necessary with the new style Greens. Problem is the driver's side axle is ever so slightly short of seating properly - like just under 1/8 of an inch. I've verified that both sets of inner splines are lined up to receive the axles. I've tried whacking things with a chunk of wood and 5lb sledge to help things along but no go.

Am I missing anything here? Besides removing the thrust block do I have any other options to try?

Thanks!

 

[R413]

The best option is to use the original tapered rear axle bearings these cars were born with. It is a great design, way ahead of anything else.

They will outlast the car if you clean and repack them.

 

[Bill76]

Cut some off the splined end

 

[khryslerkid]

I had a problem seating one side. After having it together for two years I removed the axels to replace the center section. Reinstalling the axels one side didn't want to seat. I could push it in by hand and it would push back out. It ended up being the grease I used on the bearing and seal was creating a seal and pressure was preventing it from going in all the way.

If yours is hitting something solid, it's more than likely the thrust button. If it's spongy and pushing back out it could be what I described.

 

[Dipstick]

Are these axles original to that housing? If not, have you verified that the axle length is correct for the housing?

 

[KidCoronet]

Ok I just measured the axles and they are 29 3/16 from the back of the retainer to the tips of the splines so it looks like they are the originals. Great tip on the axle grease pressure but unfortunately I'm definitely hitting hardpan. I have an angle grinder and it seems like I could take about an 1/8th inch off each side which should be more than enough room. I've never ground down the end of an axle but it seems doable. I should probably just take apart the sg and remove the darn thing but it's just so close....

 

[steve340]

Don't shorten the axle it is something else.
They fitted before so that is not the problem.

 

[69Bee]

The thrust buttons MUST be removed. The axles will not go all of the way in otherwise. If you are lucky like me, the retaining pin thru the buttons is out or loose, and a long telescoping magnet will remove them thru the axle tubes.

 

[Bill76]

The buttons can stay right where they are , I had the same problem when switching to green bearings . I just cut off .080 on the end of one axle and life was good.
much easier then taking apart a new sure grip that I had a lot of money and time invested in.

 

[beanhead]

Ok I just measured the axles and they are 29 3/16 from the back of the retainer to the tips of the splines so it looks like they are the originals. Great tip on the axle grease pressure but unfortunately I'm definitely hitting hardpan. I have an angle grinder and it seems like I could take about an 1/8th inch off each side which should be more than enough room. I've never ground down the end of an axle but it seems doable. I should probably just take apart the sg and remove the darn thing but it's just so close....

Like 69Bee stated, sometimes the spacer can be fished out through the tubes...it's a bit of a longshot, but if you have the axles out already it's a very easy thing to try. You might also, since you're in there, try tapping it around with something like long wooden dowel? Again, just something to try and if no dice, then decide if you want to remove the spacer or shave down the axles. (My vote would be remove the spacer, but that's just me...it's more work, for sure, but the experience would be well worth it for you IMO)

 

[john-9]

before you go to removing metal from the axle spline check to make sure the inner axle seal is installed to the proper depth -- if it is not in far enough the lock collar for the bearing will bottom out on the seal face ,, which will destroy the seal if run that way --- seal depth should be 1.675 -1.700 from the seal face to the face of the housing flange ---there is a inner lip in the housing end that the seal will bottom against if installed properly.

 

[hunt2elk]

Before I cut off an axle shaft, I surely would be giving Cass a call. Or maybe you did already?

 

[Dipstick]

Ok I just measured the axles and they are 29 3/16 from the back of the retainer to the tips of the splines so it looks like they are the originals.

That is correct for a '68-'70 B-body. NO NOT shorten the axles, something else is wrong.

The snap ring type Green bearings do not need any thrust block removed.

 

[RT6PK]

That is correct for a '68-'70 B-body. NO NOT shorten the axles, something else is wrong.

The snap ring type Green bearings do not need any thrust block removed.

I have a similar issue going on with a '67 Belvedere with a 742 center section. Are the axle lengths on a '66-'67 such that the thrust button would have to come out?

 

[khryslerkid]

With the earlier 8 3/4" rears with taypered axels there were two different lenth axels. The open rears had a 1/8" to 3/16" longer axel than the suregrip rear. I don't know if they continued this after changing to the flanged axels. I don't believe they did.

I bought the newer style flanged axels (with green bearings) conversion from taypered, from Dr. Diff and he recommended removing the buttons.

If you're lucky, the pin that holds the two buttons in the thrust block is broken and you can extract them with a long magnet. If the pin isn't broke, you have to use a small punch to drive the pin through the one button. You have to examine which button has the pin's head and which has the expanded end. The expanded end is the end you want to drive out.

 

[KidCoronet]

Well I decided to just get the thrust block removed by a great local rear end shop who did it for $30 (I don't have a dial indicator). I already have it back and after re-reading this thread I realized what the problem might have been. I have everything out of the car and was mocking things up on jack stands beforehand to check the fitment. But...I hadn't yet removed the old inner seals so maybe the inner seals were holding me up that small bit? I have since removed them but measured first and both sides were exactly 1 3/8 in from the end of the housing. It seems like the new seals need to be a bit further in (1.675 -1.700)? I plan to put those in today and hopefully have everything reinstalled (leaf springs, shocks, etc.) by this weekend.

 

[khryslerkid]

Well I decided to just get the thrust block removed by a great local rear end shop who did it for $30

No special tools are necessary. You don't remove the thrust block, why is everyone saying to remove the thrust block? That stays in there. You remove the buttons.

Sounds like you're on your way!

 

[john-9]

Well I decided to just get the thrust block removed by a great local rear end shop who did it for $30 (I don't have a dial indicator). I already have it back and after re-reading this thread I realized what the problem might have been. I have everything out of the car and was mocking things up on jack stands beforehand to check the fitment. But...I hadn't yet removed the old inner seals so maybe the inner seals were holding me up that small bit? I have since removed them but measured first and both sides were exactly 1 3/8 in from the end of the housing. It seems like the new seals need to be a bit further in (1.675 -1.700)? I plan to put those in today and hopefully have everything reinstalled (leaf springs, shocks, etc.) by this weekend.

like i said in post #11 -- the seals must be installed to the inner stop to clear the lock ring on the bearing -- 1-3/8 is NOT deep enough. i've seen this numerous times on housings that have come in and helped a fellow on the A-body sight with the same issue recently.

 

[Dipstick]

I bought the newer style flanged axels (with green bearings) conversion from taypered, from Dr. Diff and he recommended removing the buttons.

That's because the aftermarket axles are slightly longer. With stock axles the snap ring type Green bearings clear the thrust block/buttons.

 

[Billccm]

Well I decided to just get the thrust block removed by a great local rear end shop who did it for $30 (I don't have a dial indicator). I already have it back and after re-reading this thread I realized what the problem might have been. I have everything out of the car and was mocking things up on jack stands beforehand to check the fitment. But...I hadn't yet removed the old inner seals so maybe the inner seals were holding me up that small bit? I have since removed them but measured first and both sides were exactly 1 3/8 in from the end of the housing. It seems like the new seals need to be a bit further in (1.675 -1.700)? I plan to put those in today and hopefully have everything reinstalled (leaf springs, shocks, etc.) by this weekend.

Did this get resolved? Was it the inner seals?