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Green bearings

With the green bearings , you don't have to adjust your side clearance. Not all that hard to do that wrong. You can get rid of the right side adjuster, and since they are sealed, they never have to be grease packed. Packing a bearing with grease with the bearing pressed on the axle, is a PITA . In my case , with low vision, it would be easier to do.
 
Packing a bearing with grease with the bearing pressed on the axle, is a PITA .
Mine lasted the first time until 2016 (they were still good, probably shouldn't even have replaced them!), don't think I'll ever have to worry about doing it again in my lifetime!
 
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Where's @RJRENTON ? This thread is worthless without his "Opinion". :)
 
Again. They were available when Chrysler and Dana designed the rear axle assembly for Chrysler applications.
The ball bearings were also cheaper then, so Chrysler didn't do it for money reasons....Must have been thinking long term.


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Everyone here that’s getting the GB case must not be informed that the infamous Ford 9”, that is used in all sort of applications, doesn’t use a tapered bearing. And they last. Why is that?
 
Again. They were available when Chrysler and Dana designed the rear axle assembly for Chrysler applications.
The ball bearings were also cheaper then, so Chrysler didn't do it for money reasons....Must have been thinking long term.


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Smiley, gif, emoji whatever they call them now days... STOLEN! :lol:
 
Somebody please explain to me what is the purpose of these Green Bearings.. Seriously, I have never known of any reason why I would need to get away from the regular Mopar bearings with adjustable side preload. What is the reason for Green bearings? What is their advantage?
Replacement of axle seals, and are not
prone to leakage. The two main
reasons to switch. Normal street
driving, or drag racing (straight line
forces) are good. Forget autocross
where extreme lateral forces are
applied.
 
Forget autocross
where extreme lateral forces are
applied.
I have heard this too but how many actual cases of bearing failure have happened?
Experts love to speak in theoretical cases but what really matters is actual data.
For all my construction framing career, I knew what we did was to code, safe and compliant. Then I started seeing the shoddy framework in remodel jobs that would get a man fired immediately, yet the building was still standing. I'm talking 50-75 year old houses that should have collapsed based on what I was taught. This does not mean that I have abandoned my standards but it has made me wonder how many other times that I have believed what I was told only to find out later that someone was exaggerating.
I've had "Green" bearings in my car since 2001. I'm on my second set. The first went bad early but I suspect that they were the early style that were more prone to failure.
For the record...."Green" is a brand name like Clorox or Lysol. The actual bearings are not painted green.
I first went with them based on their ease of use. I later learned of their reduced side load capability. I didn't have my old adjusters so I simply went with the ball bearing units again. I've decided that when these do go, I will return to the tapered Timken bearings.
 
I have heard this too but how many actual cases of bearing failure have happened?
Experts love to speak in theoretical cases but what really matters is actual data.
For all my construction framing career, I knew what we did was to code, safe and compliant. Then I started seeing the shoddy framework in remodel jobs that would get a man fired immediately, yet the building was still standing. I'm talking 50-75 year old houses that should have collapsed based on what I was taught. This does not mean that I have abandoned my standards but it has made me wonder how many other times that I have believed what I was told only to find out later that someone was exaggerating.
I've had "Green" bearings in my car since 2001. I'm on my second set. The first went bad early but I suspect that they were the early style that were more prone to failure.
For the record...."Green" is a brand name like Clorox or Lysol. The actual bearings are not painted green.
I first went with them based on their ease of use. I later learned of their reduced side load capability. I didn't have my old adjusters so I simply went with the ball bearing units again. I've decided that when these do go, I will return to the tapered Timken bearings.
I full well understand your point as to
framing standards and what engineers
have decided as to what bearings
hold up better under certain
circumstances. I've seen some
framing practices that would certainly
raise an eyebrow, but were acceptable
with current standards. ie...metal strap
windbracing. California was famous
for this practice in the late 60's/early
70's. It virtually did nothing for the
integrity of the structure.
"Green" bearings offer ease of seal
replacement, and are less prone to
seal leakage. Ideal for drag racing
applications as they can be repaired
quickly, and there are minimal side to
side forces on the bearing.
(Normal) street driving is fine for
these type of bearings as the lateral
forces applied don't come close to
to those that are subject to constant
extreme side to side forces when
autocrossing.
I've run green bearings in my Jeep's
rebuild that is now 20+ years done,
with nothing crazy as far as
offloading goes. No leaks, no
bearing failures.
 
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Everyone here that’s getting the GB case must not be informed that the infamous Ford 9”, that is used in all sort of applications, doesn’t use a tapered bearing. And they last. Why is that?
My large ford type bearings from Strange D60 are indeed tapered bearings, the outer race comes off & you will see
 
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