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Grendel lives...resurrection of a 1970 Charger 500

With the direction I'm going with her, there are going to be admirers and disapprovers. What the latter group think about it won't concern me. She's going to be far from a factory resto project. I've already had neighbors say they love it so far, and my buddy with a 1971 Charger say he doesn't like some things. It's all good. :)
 
Not an exciting update, but another step further in the process. My body man already replaced the front floor pans and rockerguarded the front half of the interior, but didn't do anything for the rear half. My rear floors are pretty good but had some surface rust, especially around seams and the rocker wire covers. Gave it a good vacuum and degrease scrub-down before painting everywhere that needed it with Dominion DOM16...a less expensive Canadian version of POR-15.

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Tips on restoring driver-quality sidemarker housings...

Even after a thorough washing, all my housings looked rather dull and listless, especially those narrow inner channels. I got some 0000 steel wool, which is safe on chrome, and scrubbed them up, focusing on the inner channels by running the steel wool along the edges with a fingernail, and got them looking a lot shinier, after removing the dull grey smut stuck inside there. Not all of us can afford hundreds of dollars of shiny new re-pops, so an hour of elbow grease might get those sidemarkers to be more presentable.

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New gas tank, rockerguarded and ready to install. I sandblasted my original gas tank straps after scraping off the undercoating that was liberally sprayed all over them, then painted them with Rust Bullet. It's similar to POR-15 but has a nice silvery-grey color. (I also painted my sidemarker housing retainers with this.) I thought it would be cool if the straps stood out from the black tank.

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Now that I have accumulated 17 finish panel trim clips, I'm most of the way there to reinstalling the finish panel. I put in a few hours of sanding with 320-grit sandpaper to prep the panel for reinstallation, and have enough rubber washers to install it, but I don't have 17 nuts or PAL nuts yet. Nothing is open until Tuesday as it's Canada Day on Monday...so the waiting continues. But, I got the finish panel painted with SEM Trim Black.

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I encountered a little obstacle while preparing to install the painted finish panel. I spent too much time trying to source some PAL nuts that would work to attach the "Charger" emblem to the finish panel only to learn the 3 repro emblem mounting posts, at least a half-inch long, prevented the finish panel from attaching all the way between the taillights. Even when I cut them down to just a millimeter or two above where the PAL nuts threaded on, they still obstructed. I recalled that the original emblem was riveted on.

Here's the solution I came up with. I snipped them even shorter so that maybe only 1/8" was sticking out from the underside when securely clamped down. The idea was to JB Weld some washers down, then JB Weld a second layer of epoxy over top. This should hold nearly as well as the original rivets and not protrude and obstruct the final mounting. It doesn't matter how it looks on the inside, nobody will see it but me. :thumbsup:

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One thing my body man didn't paint was these inner taillight cavities. I didn't think this would be an issue, I figured after the taillights and finish panel were installed, the unpainted areas wouldn't be visible, but I was mistaken. After installing the taillights and fitting the finish panel, you could still see a half-inch gap of this ugly unfinished area. So, I will mask it off and give it a few coats of Rust Bullet BlackShell. It goes on gloss black like POR-15/DOM16 but unlike those, it's UV resistant.

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70 Charger tail panel is one of those Mopar top of the heap deals....
 
I finally got my gas tank installed last night. As many others have observed, getting those tank straps to reach back onto the J-bolts was none too easy. No matter what I did, holding up the tank with jack stands, pushing up on the strap with a jack, it was only barely enough to just touch the bottom of the J-bolt. Here's how I got the $%9a8) thing installed. I bought two of these 7-1/4" clothesline hooks for about 5 bucks--that were actually the same thread as the J-bolt nuts--and cut off about an inch from the curved end, enough for them to hook inside the J-bolt holes. I was then able to get the hook-bolts through the tank straps, and cranked them up as far as they'd go. I then placed the floor jack underneath one of the straps and was able to swap out the hook-bolt for the J-bolt, one at a time.

I also found an open-end ratcheting wrench was the best tool to get those nuts on and off, because even a deep socket wouldn't get them all the way on.

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Grendel hasn't started in 12 years, and back then, I had a gunked-up leaking gas tank, questionable fuel lines and a carb that needed a rebuild. New gas tank is installed, stainless fuel lines are almost ready to go back in after I tackle some minor surface rust the length of the inner body surface where the lines are pinned, but I spent the weekend working on the carb. I bought a bottle of original Pine-Sol and poured it in a cheap plastic container, then topped it up with hot water. It was enough to nearly fully submerge the carb. I let it soak about 24 hours. It came out pretty clean, I was impressed. There were a few spots at the bottoms of the bowls where the baffles were that had some slimy varnish but it wiped up with some Q-tips.

I rinsed the parts off in a bucket of hot water, blew everything out with compressed air, gave it a light spray of WD-40 and again sprayed air.

The old Eddy looks much better now, ready to go back on the car.

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I picked up this bad boy on a great sale price for Amazon Prime Day last week. I've always wanted a steam cleaner to clean & detail the engine bay because I always get nervous spraying degreasing chemicals and water on engine parts, getting electrical components wet and always having to reach in and scrub areas with a rag, sponge or toothbrush. I'm hoping the heat and pressure of steam will make the job a lot easier. I did some research of independent reviews and this one was high on some lists. I like that it has adjustable pressure and is fairly compact, and comes with every attachment imaginable. My pics show it with the ones I'll be primarily using for the engine bay, but it has attachments for carpet and floor, wall cleaning and wallpaper removal, clothing, a rotating brush and a bunch of other smaller brush-head attachments. I also like how you can use it without the wand extensions, or with one or two depending on how long you want the wand to be.

It takes about 10 minutes to heat up and runs about 35 minutes on 1.3 L of water. It has a safety feature that the water fill knob won't unscrew if there's still pressure in the tank.

I hope to put it to the test tonight.

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Grendel got a good engine detailing last night. The bay was already fairly clean as it hasn't been started in 12 years or driven in decades, but there was a lot of dust and crap collected when it was getting body & paint done. I first blew out everything as good as I could with the air compressor. I then tested the steam cleaner with the following impressions:

-Although it puts out a pretty decent stream of steam, it's certainly no pressure washer or air compressor. It did a pretty good job cleaning up most dirt and surface grime, but there were areas gunked up in the nooks & crannies of the manifold that even degreaser or WD-40 wouldn't touch. Those areas needed a wire brush, so I guess no steam cleaner would've cleaned that up. The steam cleaner isn't going to blow off chunks of gunk.

-I think the best results were when I sprayed some degreaser on the dirty surfaces, then used the steam cleaner on them, I could then wipe them up fairly clean. I think if one already had a clean engine bay, a steam cleaner like this would make routine maintenance quite a bit easier.

Overall, I'm happy with it, I'd give it 4 out of 5 stars. I might've liked more pressure but with all the attachments it comes with, and how many applications it has and how easy it is to use, it's a good product. I will be testing it on the cloth interior of my GN to see how it does interior cleaning.

My engine bay, though clean, doesn't look too great. I couldn't afford the extra $5 grand my body man said it would cost to pull the motor and components and do it properly, so it'll get done at some later time. You can see the original medium green metallic paint that was later overpainted black, and is flaking off in areas. But the engine is clean and all the components were removed and cleaned and/or restored or replaced by myself about 15 years ago. Some before/after pics.

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With some careful measuring, I also discovered I could install a nice polished aluminum 1" carb spacer beneath my Eddy 750, and keep the 1" black plastic spacer under the 3" air cleaner assembly, with a small wing-nut and not have it touch the bottom of the hood when closed. I wasn't expecting that carb spacer to fit! But now I need some carb mounting bolts that have an inch more threads...this is using an original Edelbrock Performer 383 manifold.
 
Ahh, carb spacers...I got all excited when I discovered I could fit this old 1" carb spacer that I had laying around for years under my carb and still have the hood close. But after taking a closer look at the straight-cut square bore, relative to the manifold ports, I'm sure you can see the issue. Perhaps only a minor issue but the square, untapered intake holes don't nicely line up with the manifold ports.



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I did some searching on Amazon and found this 3/4" carb spacer for about $40 CAD (there was another seller with the same thing for $6 cheaper but I didn't want to wait a few weeks). It widens out to match the manifold ports, and has a nice taper to match the carb base. It's 1/4" thinner so it'll give me some extra breathing room under the hood.

It's pretty rough-cast aluminum but I'll do some polishing on it on the surfaces that matter.

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This new 3/4" carb spacer definitely needed work, it came with a textured finish like it was just bead-blasted. I polished the top/bottom and inside surfaces to make it flow better.

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One of things I need to do prior to reinstalling the front bumper assembly is clean, sand and degrease the front forward interior area where the headlights and valance bolt onto. Surprisingly after all these years, this area had very little rust, just a few spots like the joints where some minor surface rust was. I cleaned it up with some WD-40, then sanded everything down to rough it up a bit, and blasted it clean with my air compressor. Then, a spray and wipe-down with degreaser. It's ready for a few coats of DOM16 to be brushed on.

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