Hard starting

[Ron816]

74 RR 440 4 speed, when it's at operating temp it won't start unless I let it cool down for @15 min, ballast Resistor is new but noticed it gets very hot, when checking for Spark I put a remote starter on the starter relay and all I got was a click I then turned the ignition and it was cranking fine could the starter relay be the problem

 

[gtxno1]

It is normal for the ballast to get hot what is the actual symptom

 

[Ron816]

When hot won't start until it cools down then starts right up, why would the motor not crank when I jump the relay

 

[gtxno1]

as far as not cranking with jumping the relay maybe you are not on the right terminals but if it is cranking and not starting do you have spark if so look down the carb while hot and check for white fuel vapors you will be able to see them if so your carb is leaking down causing a flooding issue

 

[Ron816]

I jumped the right terminals it just clicks won't crank as for the fuel I will check that it is a new carb

 

[Slantsixdan]

Sounds like a classic case of the starter failing when it's hot. Very common on the big-block cars, especially the later-production ('70s) units where everything in the engine bay runs hotter than in the earlier cars. Chrysler devised a (much) stronger starter motor for the 440s in '74, but it is physically completely interchangeable with the less-powerful starter and if you don't know what to look for the two types of starter look alike -- so it's possible someone swapped on an ordinary starter that did OK until it began to fail. Do not buy "remanufactured" starters; they're junk, but neither is it necessary or helpful to spend giant bucks on boutique specialty starters, either. Good options are a new original-type heavy-duty Chrysler starter (still available if you know where to look...I might have one or two left on my shelf) or a late-model permanent magnet mini starter (all the grunt of the HD Chrysler starter, much smaller and lighter...but doesn't sound like the originals if that matters to you).

Another potential cause: faulty battery cables.

 

[Ron816]

It's a new starter m&d high torque mini it cranks fine just won't start like no spark but if I let it sit for a few minutes it starts up

 

[mentor70]

my 70 Cuda had an issue similar to this, it ended up being a dry-rotted fuel line from the fuel tank to the main metal fuel line to the fuel pump.

 

[Ron816]

getting plenty of fuel and spark I think it's flooding out new carb holley 750

 

[440roadrunner]

1...First you need to really really REALLY resolve the cranking issue, which may NOT be an issue

1A...Why are you using a remote switch?

2B..I need to get clear in my mind.........if you hook up the switch and it will not crank, and you then try the key, does it crank? If so, this is a poor quality or defective starter switch, one which cannot handle the current

3...Try your "remote" without USING the remote. Simple. Any metal object, a screwdriver, a quarter, or pair of pliers. Jumper across the two large bare terminals on the starter relay. Be careful of course, that it's in neutral, park. If it will not crank under THAT condition, you are right down to the starter, the cables, or the battery.

"New" does not mean functional

==========================================

4....If the cranking "issue" turns out to be the starter switch, using one to check spark IS NOT PROPER in that it does not give you the correct "picture." This is because, during cranking USING THE KEY, the ignition switch bypasses the resistor, giving you a hot spark

4B....Therefore, for spark check under "normal" cranking conditions, "rig" a test gap right in the top of the coil (in other words do not use the factory coil wire) and "rig" it so you can see it, say, through the hood gap. Then twist the key, and observe the spark that way. You should have at least 3/8" and typically 1/2" long hot blue spark (Easier to see with a small block LOL)

5....I would not waste time, get the starter "issue" solved, check the spark under proper conditions. THIS IS MORE LIKELY a fuel boil / vapor lock issue.

On my Dart, before I "went" EFI, the best things I did was to build a 440-426 style fuel return setup---using a Wix 33040 /41 filter with a built in return

Used a thick isolator gasket under the carb

And a rear mount electric pump.

 

[Slantsixdan]

It's a new starter m&d high torque mini it cranks fine

…which is why you said "All I got was a click".

 

[Ron816]

Problem solved, When I changed to another Carb I did not check the fuel pressure it was much too high for the carb and was flooding out.

 

[Dennis H]

Don't get it. Why would it not spin if it is a fuel issue?

 

[Ron816]

I was using a remote starter to check for spark because I didn't have anyone to turn the key so I hooked up to the starter relay and when I engaged remote it was just clicking, so I crossed the terminal with a screwdriver and the engine cranked, turns out my remote was bad, the car always cranked from the key, but just wouldn't kick unless I let it sit for a bit, too much fuel passing past the needles, as soon as I reduced fuel pressure she started right up.

 

[gtxno1]

These big engines lock up real fast when fuel is being dumped under a hot soak makes you think you have a bad starter once cooled for a couple of mins goes away glad you got it resolved