manic_mopar
Well-Known Member
Awesome thanks for all the info.
Has anyone done this hinge rebuild kit?
- Thread starter manic_mopar
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manic_mopar
Well-Known Member
I just measured my pins and they're at .33 and the bushing is a sliver over .41 so it appears to be the same! I'll get that drill bit ordered.
mopar 3 B
Well-Known Member
Keep the lower hinge lubed or the mechanism will freeze up making the door a real pain to open and close. Thats the main reason so many are missing the spring.
Montclaire
Well-Known Member
On my 73 challenger we used a parts store 'help' kit for a ford pickup. Had to drill out the holes a little bigger but got a bigger bushing and a thicker pin, door closed like a dream. Cost was nominal.
I need to do this on my road runner. Thinking about just swapping hinges with rebuilt items from an eBay seller.
Any advice, tips, or tricks on door removal? I assume I need at least one, if not two helpers.
Any advice, tips, or tricks on door removal? I assume I need at least one, if not two helpers.
mopar 3 B
Well-Known Member
With aid of a floor jack or plan old blocks to support the door i see no reason for extra help.
Thanks. I'm assuming you can replace one hinge at a time without removal of the entire door? Support well and swap quickly one by one?
manic_mopar
Well-Known Member
Thats a pretty good idea! Im about ready to tackle this and dont really have any help around to muscle this thing. May end up trying this.
I spoke with superbird Bob. Nice guy and loves mopars. Bought a driver's side set from him $100, $30 core, and $15 shipping. Should arrive this week. Hopefully will go easy with the swap.
Superbird Bob emailed and said this is the driver's top hinge and follow the orientation marked. What am I missing? This cannot fit on the driver's door in this orientation.
Superbird Bob just called me. Really nice guy and a true blue Mopar fan. Anyhow, his nephew packed the box and did send the wrong hinge. Replacements shipping today. Still recommend this guy for your hinges, but I'll update when the swap is complete.
My mechanic friend who is helping me plans to use his cherry picker, 2x4s, and pool noodles to hold up the door and we will swap one hinge at a time. Wish me luck!
My mechanic friend who is helping me plans to use his cherry picker, 2x4s, and pool noodles to hold up the door and we will swap one hinge at a time. Wish me luck!
manic_mopar
Well-Known Member
Let us know how it goes!
Just finished rattle can rustoleum painting of the hinges. Duplicolor was too dark and rustoleum is too light. Oh well, these are only visible when the door is open.
I think if I had to do over I'd paint them rustoleum satin black and just go on.
I think if I had to do over I'd paint them rustoleum satin black and just go on.
I completed the job today. Hinge swap was straightforward and no issues. I marked the hinges and put the replacements back exactly where the original sit. I used BOTH a floor jack and a hoist with a rope sling to support the door as I was a bit nervous doing the job. I also used dollar store pool noodles to protect the fender and door bottom edges.
However, I could not get the door to latch. I adjusted the door 1/32 of an inch lower, and still no latch. Adjusted back to where I started. Called JimKueneman (resident FBBO member and expert B Body guy) and after discussion, decided to adjust the door striker as it looked as if the door was closing in high. I moved the striker oh so slightly up, and the door latched with almost zero effort.
I'm probably being overly judgemental, but the bottom rear corner of the door seems to stick out a bit further than before. Alignment of the front of the door is perfect, and the tops of the door are spot on for both front and rear, but the bottom edge is out more than before. I might try to tweak it tomorrow, but I may leave well enough alone as the door closes surprisingly easy.
I will say that Superbird Bob's rebuilt hinges are excellent quality. My rattle can rustoleum paint job did not match that well, but once the hinges are in there it really is barely noticeable. Yes, it won't pass concourse judging, but you really have to study the hinges to see the color mismatch.
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
However, I could not get the door to latch. I adjusted the door 1/32 of an inch lower, and still no latch. Adjusted back to where I started. Called JimKueneman (resident FBBO member and expert B Body guy) and after discussion, decided to adjust the door striker as it looked as if the door was closing in high. I moved the striker oh so slightly up, and the door latched with almost zero effort.
I'm probably being overly judgemental, but the bottom rear corner of the door seems to stick out a bit further than before. Alignment of the front of the door is perfect, and the tops of the door are spot on for both front and rear, but the bottom edge is out more than before. I might try to tweak it tomorrow, but I may leave well enough alone as the door closes surprisingly easy.
I will say that Superbird Bob's rebuilt hinges are excellent quality. My rattle can rustoleum paint job did not match that well, but once the hinges are in there it really is barely noticeable. Yes, it won't pass concourse judging, but you really have to study the hinges to see the color mismatch.
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
Triple Black 73
Well-Known Member
My dad did the hinges on my '73 one hinge at a time with the door closed and locked. He removed the hinges through the wheel openings. Tight fit that's for sure. I wasn't there to watch so I don't all the details. He said it was a fairly straight forward job to replace the bushings and springs. There was no way to do it without a big bench vice on a heavy study bench. Whole lot cheaper for the bushing kit than new hinges.
Well, I think with patience and small wrenches and a short short wobble socket you could do this with the door closed. Pretty good idea as the splash shield needs to come off anyway to access the one bolt.
I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but I just tried it and it worked great. I compared the passenger door (which has original hinges) to the drivers door. Measuring the center of the latch to ground, measuring the bottom of the striker to the bottom of the door jamb, and used a small bubble level to get an angle on the striker. VIOLA! Door closed with no effort and alignment is maybe a few millimeters off. Good enough for my driver quality car. I'm finished!
Sending my cores back to Superbird Bob tomorrow for my $30 refund. Its so nice to have a project turn out well. My luck has been bad lately when wrenching on this car and turned into a frustrating debacle. This time I didn't have a frustrating weekend.
Good Luck to you guys!
I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but I just tried it and it worked great. I compared the passenger door (which has original hinges) to the drivers door. Measuring the center of the latch to ground, measuring the bottom of the striker to the bottom of the door jamb, and used a small bubble level to get an angle on the striker. VIOLA! Door closed with no effort and alignment is maybe a few millimeters off. Good enough for my driver quality car. I'm finished!
Sending my cores back to Superbird Bob tomorrow for my $30 refund. Its so nice to have a project turn out well. My luck has been bad lately when wrenching on this car and turned into a frustrating debacle. This time I didn't have a frustrating weekend.
Good Luck to you guys!
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