Has Anyone Used the Trick Flow Specialties 440 Top End Kit?

[Portagee]

Has anyone used this top end kit on their 440?

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-k616-620-576

If so, what was your impression on the power/performance, drivability, etc?

 

[Hemirunner]

Has anyone used this top end kit on their 440?

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-k616-620-576

If so, what was your impression on the power/performance, drivability, etc?

What size short block are you putting it on?

 

[andyf]

Has anyone used this top end kit on their 440?

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-k616-620-576

If so, what was your impression on the power/performance, drivability, etc?

We've built several 505 engines with the TF top end kit. Makes a very impressive street engine. I think the TF hyd roller cam would be a bit big for a street driven 440 but it is just about perfect in a 505. The top end kit will make a nice 600/600 engine in a 505 with a fairly smooth idle and decent manners.

 

[Portagee]

What size short block are you putting it on?

I currently have a ~1975 440 block, and a six pack rotating assembly. Considering having the assembly internally balanced, and the block gone through (tanked, align honed, decked if necessary, and .030 overbore)

 

[Portagee]

We've built several 505 engines with the TF top end kit. Makes a very impressive street engine. I think the TF hyd roller cam would be a bit big for a street driven 440 but it is just about perfect in a 505. The top end kit will make a nice 600/600 engine in a 505 with a fairly smooth idle and decent manners.

That's awesome feedback, thanks! Do you think the extra cubes are necessary? Not wanting to go too crazy with the 440 block that I have unless absolutely need to. At that point, I think I'd go with a new Scat forged rotating assembly and overbore to the engine to a 505 like you're talking about.

 

[moparedtn]

Over $3900 at Summit. Mercy....

 

[Portagee]

Over $3900 at Summit. Mercy....

Yeah, exactly why I wanted to get a feel if people though it was worth it - pretty spendy....

 

[Hemirunner]

I currently have a ~1975 440 block, and a six pack rotating assembly. Considering having the assembly internally balanced, and the block gone through (tanked, align honed, decked if necessary, and .030 overbore)

As mentioned earlier, a 493 or 505 would be a better combo with that kit but you could always bolt it on the 440 for now and save for the stroker long block later. It’ll be a little rowdy but lots of fun in comparison to a stocker.

 

[dvw]

I currently have a ~1975 440 block, and a six pack rotating assembly. Considering having the assembly internally balanced, and the block gone through (tanked, align honed, decked if necessary, and .030 overbore)

Money tight? How worn are the bores? If there not that bad ? Ball hone it, rings bearings and slap the Trick Flow kit on it. Get a loose converter and run it. It's amazing how many $ you can spend on a short block for minimal gain.
Doug

 

[Portagee]

Money tight? How worn are the bores? If there not that bad ? Ball hone it, rings bearings and slap the Trick Flow kit on it. Get a loose converter and run it. It's amazing how many $ you can spend on a short block for minimal gain.
Doug

Great point, every time I try to cost out the short block it gets stupid expensive.

The block is actually in fantastic shape. The bores look perfect, as the person who stored the block actually coated each bore with this super thick grease. There's no ridge at the top either, and they're stock diameter. Was actually considering trying to make my own "hot tank" with a metal drum, simple green, and a gas burner underneath, but not sure if that's a dumb idea.

So I have a stock 6 pack rotating assembly, and I already cleaned the rods and pistons - they look great:

And the crank is still in the block, but rotates very nicely just by hand. I also have a set of ported 906 heads that I could use...

Any thoughts/suggestions? Kind of leaning towards slapping the 440 back together with the parts I already have, just new rings/bearings/seals.

 

[dvw]

Look at this way. Reassemble what you have nice and clean. Use new rings, bearings, timing chain. Inspect the oil pump. A few nick's and scratches wont kill it. Measure and make sure nothing's to tight. Check the decks for being flat. Believe or not a large flat block with sand paper can work wonders. Itll run fine. Will it make max power? No. But the investment will be minimal. Even if it has catastrophic failure the money lost will still be low. Now the heads. Wiggle the guides. Lap the valve with a little compound and a battery drill. If they need no major work, you can try them. If they need very much, bite the bullet and spring for new heads.
Doug

 

[forphorty]

The Engine Masters guys had a worn out low comp 440 with, IIRC , a 268 Comp HE. 360ish hp. Bolted on the TFs and picked up almost 70 hp.

 

[Portagee]

Look at this way. Reassemble what you have nice and clean. Use new rings, bearings, timing chain. Inspect the oil pump. A few nick's and scratches wont kill it. Measure and make sure nothing's to tight. Check the decks for being flat. Believe or not a large flat block with sand paper can work wonders. Itll run fine. Will it make max power? No. But the investment will be minimal. Even if it has catastrophic failure the money lost will still be low. Now the heads. Wiggle the guides. Lap the valve with a little compound and a battery drill. If they need no major work, you can try them. If they need very much, bite the bullet and spring for new heads.
Doug

I love this idea - at this point, I just want to get the car back on the road, so this seems like the best idea. And thanks for your suggestions on the DIY deck surfacing and valve lapping, I think I will give those a go.

 

[Portagee]

Look at this way. Reassemble what you have nice and clean. Use new rings, bearings, timing chain. Inspect the oil pump. A few nick's and scratches wont kill it. Measure and make sure nothing's to tight. Check the decks for being flat. Believe or not a large flat block with sand paper can work wonders. Itll run fine. Will it make max power? No. But the investment will be minimal. Even if it has catastrophic failure the money lost will still be low. Now the heads. Wiggle the guides. Lap the valve with a little compound and a battery drill. If they need no major work, you can try them. If they need very much, bite the bullet and spring for new heads.
Doug

Oh, the one thing I don't have is a cam - do you have a recommendation for this type of a rebuild? I'm guessing solid roller, but no idea on the specs, or if there is a typical 440HP cam that is good for use with the 906 heads.

 

[dvw]

If your on a budget I'd run a solid flat tappet. After break in it's a whole lot more maintenance friendly than a roller. And a lot cheaper. The specs depend on the final compression, gear, converter, intake, car weight and intended usage. With 906 heads the restriction will be the heads anyway. The Trick Flows on stock short block will out run a 906 head stroker.
Doug

 

[BSB67]

So I have a stock 6 pack rotating assembly

The "rotating assembly" generally includes the pistons. Do you have 6 pack pistons?

 

[Portagee]

The "rotating assembly" generally includes the pistons. Do you have 6 pack pistons?

That's a good point, and I'm not 100% sure. Here are the pistons that are on the six pack rods:

I kind of don't think they are six pack pistons? Didn't the six pack pistons have 4 valve reliefs? What's the best way to determine what pistons these are?

 

[Portagee]

And here's the inside, looks like it says, "05102" on the top line and, "671217" on the bottom line.

 

[RemCharger]

Looks pretty schtock to me. probably about .155-.160 in the hole. So you should have a externally balanced balancer and weighted torque converter I would think.

 

[Portagee]

Looks pretty schtock to me. probably about .155-.160 in the hole. So you should have a externally balanced balancer and weighted torque converter I would think.

Yeah I'm guessing they're stock, doesn't seem to be anything special about them. Here is the balancer that came with the rods/pistons/shortblock that I bought:

The pic uploaded upside down, but the numbers look like they say, "83184-248XX9" - is that a stock damper for a steel crank? The crank is still in the block and I haven't pulled it to take a look yet, so no idea if it's forged...

As for the torque converter, I'm planning on running an 833 4 speed behind this 440. Any considerations to be had there in terms of balancing the rotating mass?