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headlight switch question

furyus

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Hello, it's been a while since I've been on, but I need some help. I'm working on a 1964 Plymouth Sport Fury. I'm putting in a Painless wiring harness. It might be painless for chebby guys, but not Mopar. I need someone to tell me which terminal on the switch goes where? I looked at the pictures on here ,and mine looks the same, but mine doesn't have any part numbers.
From what I can tell, they are the same switch until, I think 68, when they went to the rocker style switch. Thanks in advance.
 
Hello, it's been a while since I've been on, but I need some help. I'm working on a 1964 Plymouth Sport Fury. I'm putting in a Painless wiring harness. It might be painless for chebby guys, but not Mopar. I need someone to tell me which terminal on the switch goes where? I looked at the pictures on here ,and mine looks the same, but mine doesn't have any part numbers.
From what I can tell, they are the same switch until, I think 68, when they went to the rocker style switch. Thanks in advance.
Doing a wiring job like that you need either the FSM as previously stated or a wiring chart which can be bought.
 
you just hit one of the biggest head scratching moments in trying to use a new wiring kit with an old switch. Many of these kits come with a new switch, if you can swap your actuator for theirs, if it’s a push pull switch just connect and go. Otherwise you will need to map each wire where it goes and then which wire corresponds to that on new set and either a new pin in old connector or cut old wires off far enough out to splice wires and reuse old connector. Take your time, can be frustrating.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I was able to find the information on the auto wire website. And I do have the wiring diagrams for the 65 B body. It's just trying to join the Painless wiring to the stock controls that is hard.
 
It’s very hard and the directions and help from the mfg are fair to poor. Trying to figure out which wire goes to dash lights etc as you said is hard. Sometimes use a battery charger to power circuits to test and see if good to go. Some circuits take full battery power though to test
 
Mopar switches tipically gets:
1 positive from Batt/Charging circuit to feed headlights (Black wire, 12 gauge)
1 positive from fuse box batt side buss to feed parkings and cluster dimmer (pink as far I recall)

Then sources these outputs at least up to 68 (69/70 the same switch but with a difference mentioned here):
1 positive to headlights floor beam selector (green wire)
1 positive for front parking lights. Will turn off with headlights. (Black with yellow trace or Yellow with black trace)
1 positive for rear parking lights and sidemarkers when equipped. This output will feed also fronts since on 69 (Same color wire than above)

IF INTEGRATED CLUSTER DIMMER WHEEL:
1 dimmed output to cluster network. Tipically runs first to a 5 amps fuse on fusebox divorced from any buss bar, then feeds the network (tan wire, becomes orange after the fuse)

IF DIVORCED CLUSTER DIMMER WHEEL:
1 full 12 volts output to feed dimmer wheel (can’t recall the wire color)

AND:
1 ground wire (taken from chassis) for dome lights and any other ACC related ( I.e.: courtesy lights ). Into the switch if integrated dimmer function. Non existant on divorced dimmer wheel, since the dimmer wheel assembly will take this function.(yellow wire)


NOW you need to locate these functions on your “painless” harness
 
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Looking at this 65 Chrysler switch I can guess by the labels:
B1->main batt wire for headlights
B2->Secondary batt wire for parking/dimmer wheel
R-> I guess Rear parking lights
H-> Headlights (to floor dimmer beams selector)
D->Dome light circuit (ground)
I think an L or I->Dimmer wheel output

And there is a prong (sloped) I can’t see the label that should be front parkings? Maybe a P labeling it

IMG_0359.jpeg
 
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