heater core ac box removal 67 coronet wagon

[cherokeechief79]

thanks to all of your help we got the inside front of the heater box out.
it was way worse than the charger vid i posted.
the core looks very bad and the h pipe doesnt look too good either.
for us this will cost too much to replace .
we dont care about the ac and have decided to put a vintage air heat only box in.
originally i was just going to make a plate right in front of the ac condensor where the heater core mounts but the new heat unit has the defrost ducts in the front and it would look stupid with those just sticking out forward before going up to the ducts.
we want to tuck it up higher now which means removing the whole box.
at this point the heatercore and lines are removed.
do we just unbolt it from the firewall inside the engine compartment?
there were supports to hold it up inside but it looks like they all were on the heater core side which we removed.
does the heat ac fan motor come out with the box or from outside?
how many bolts hold it to the firewall?
all are removed from in the eng compartment?

 

[Jerry Hall]

3 nuts, on the firewall side. Blower motor comes out with the box.

 

[cherokeechief79]

thanks! you were right definitely not easy like the charger vid!

 

[Jerry Hall]

You did it the hard way. I would have never tried to split that box with it in the car. Glad to know it can be done.

 

[gtx6970]

3 nuts, on the firewall side. Blower motor comes out with the box.

AC cars have 5 nuts on firewall . engine side

Blower motor and its attaching ring come out engine compartment side . There should be a molded rubber hose below the motor attaches to a nipple from the box , protrudes on engine compartment firewall side. it simply slides in place

Disconnect the AC lines themselves if they are still attached / in place

Disconnect the water valve capillary tube from under dash - bottom side of the box . The valve itself and its control cable can stay in the car

Disconnect the Vacuum connector from back side of the heater control switch ( not an easy thing to do in a Coronet body btw ) , leave the lines connected to the box / actuators

Big fresh air duct on pass side has 2 or maybe 3 J bolts inside it that attaches it to the base of the cowl , requires duct removal from the box itself first , let it hang down and go up inside the duct to remove said J bolts

Center duct attaches to the back side of the dash frame , it also has a molded plastic duct that goes towards drivers side thru the steering column support

There is a 1/2inch wide metal reinforcement bracket that helps support the box attaches to the upper cowl / under dash area

IMO remove the pass side plastic kick panel as it gives you a couple inches of free room to move the box around going in or out

Its MUCH easier to remove the box if no console and pass seat is removed , TRUST me,
Your back will thank you later

 

[cherokeechief79]

thank you sooooo much!

i was thinking 3 bolts and boom.
guess not

 

[Jerry Hall]

AC cars have 5 nuts on firewall . engine side

Blower motor and its attaching ring come out engine compartment side . There should be a molded rubber hose below the motor attaches to a nipple from the box , protrudes on engine compartment firewall side. it simply slides in place

Disconnect the AC lines themselves if they are still attached / in place

Disconnect the water valve capillary tube from under dash - bottom side of the box . The valve itself and its control cable can stay in the car

Disconnect the Vacuum connector from back side of the heater control switch ( not an easy thing to do in a Coronet body btw ) , leave the lines connected to the box / actuators

Big fresh air duct on pass side has 2 or maybe 3 J bolts inside it that attaches it to the base of the cowl , requires duct removal from the box itself first , let it hang down and go up inside the duct to remove said J bolts

Center duct attaches to the back side of the dash frame , it also has a molded plastic duct that goes towards drivers side thru the steering column support

There is a 1/2inch wide metal reinforcement bracket that helps support the box attaches to the upper cowl / under dash area

IMO remove the pass side plastic kick panel as it gives you a couple inches of free room to move the box around going in or out

Its MUCH easier to remove the box if no console and pass seat is removed , TRUST me,
Your back will thank you later

Yes, 5 nuts on firewall side. I'm sure the blower motor comes out with the box in 1967, at least the one I removed a few months ago did.

 

[gtx6970]

Yes, 5 nuts on firewall side. I'm sure the blower motor comes out with the box in 1967, at least the one I removed a few months ago did. View attachment 1759872

It will. I've done it both ways

But it's A LOT easier remove it first

 

[cherokeechief79]

AC cars have 5 nuts on firewall . engine side

Blower motor and its attaching ring come out engine compartment side . There should be a molded rubber hose below the motor attaches to a nipple from the box , protrudes on engine compartment firewall side. it simply slides in place

Disconnect the AC lines themselves if they are still attached / in place

Disconnect the water valve capillary tube from under dash - bottom side of the box . The valve itself and its control cable can stay in the car

Disconnect the Vacuum connector from back side of the heater control switch ( not an easy thing to do in a Coronet body btw ) , leave the lines connected to the box / actuators

Big fresh air duct on pass side has 2 or maybe 3 J bolts inside it that attaches it to the base of the cowl , requires duct removal from the box itself first , let it hang down and go up inside the duct to remove said J bolts

Center duct attaches to the back side of the dash frame , it also has a molded plastic duct that goes towards drivers side thru the steering column support

There is a 1/2inch wide metal reinforcement bracket that helps support the box attaches to the upper cowl / under dash area

IMO remove the pass side plastic kick panel as it gives you a couple inches of free room to move the box around going in or out

Its MUCH easier to remove the box if no console and pass seat is removed , TRUST me,
Your back will thank you later

we will be doing this on the weekend.are these the steps in order we should do?
are some of these things only visible once the box is off the firewall?

 

[gtx6970]

we will be doing this on the weekend.are these the steps in order we should do?
are some of these things only visible once the box is off the firewall?

Close

Me personally would do everything under the dash first.
Then move underhood. Blower motor, heater and ac lines if sill connected
There is a small vacuum line that comes thru the firewall as well . Disconnect it from the engine and push the grommet back thru the firewall towards the interior of the car

Nuts holding the box in should be last

If you want to make it even easier. Remove the glovebox liner. Not an absolute requirement, But it helps to see things thru the glovebox opening as opposed to looking under dash or feeling your way around by hand

 

[cherokeechief79]

we went to take this out today.
the vintage air unit is here too.
we already removed the heater core part of the box with your help.
the new unit fits right up there easily without removing the ac sode of the box.
i just need to make an aluminum plate with 4 holes to go over the studs which should be easy because we made a cardboard template and pushed it in over the studs.
ill already have the new unit mouted to the plate.
the vent hoses will line right up too but they are a bit bigger.
i just gotta find a way to make the ports on the new box a bit bigger.
ill take pix when its done.
the vintage air unit looks very high quality with a bunch of test stickers on it.
it was packaged in a giant box surrounded with heavy foam.