help. i keep getting different answers for timing

[Texas charger 73]

I have a 73 charger with a 318,,once its warmed up I set idle about 950 rpm. Anything lower and it dies. I'm trying to check timing. I Dont have a light so I'm gonna do it manually. Problem is I can get a solid answer. I have heard tdc, 10 before,10 after, 2.5 after,2.5 before, 5 after. What is correct so I can at least get timing set close by hand till I can get a new light. Once I get a light. What is timing with vacuum advance and without vacuum advance.

 

[69Bee]

I would set it to 5 to 10 degrees BEFORE TDC, and let it be.

 

[miller]

I've never messed with a 318, so don't know where the timing is set. Suggest trying to look up tune-up specs, if there's no data tags under the hood.

That being said, 950 rpm sounds way too high for idle. And it needs to be around the correct idle speed, to set the timing.
Pull the distributor cap, and check if the advance is working right. The rotor should be able to rotate into advance, and spring back into place when let go. (Just make sure it's not stuck in advance.) Manual or vacuum advance? Either way, the advance mech can get dried out, and stick.
Also remember at the higher rpm (as far as timing), the advance is also kicking in, and making it impossible to set idle timing.

 

[Texas charger 73]

Its vacuum advance. I'll have to check it and see if its working correctly

 

[nm9stheham]

Timing is set with the vacuum advance hose removed from the distributor and the hose plugged. This is done to set the base timing without any extra advance. At 950 engine rpm, the mechanical advance is getting close to starting to kick for a stock unit.

If you get a FSM for your car, it will have the stock vacuum advance specs versus vacuum levels listed. And it will have the mechanical advance versus RPM's for the mechanical advance too. (Take note on the latter to see if the RPM's spec'd are engine RPM's or distributor RPM's.)