HELP!!!!!Repeat voltage regulator failure

[paladin06]

OK, I took the alternator to another shop to have it tested because when I did the basic check below and it failed and it failed the test at the shop:

1. Check battery voltage with car not running, 12.47.

2. Start car and check voltage at battery, still 12.46.

New alternator, checked at purchase, and it tested good. I still get the same voltage as the old alternator. PLEASE HELP!!!

 

[paladin06]

I have went through each of these step carefully...again. All checks out OK my mechanical ignition system. Issues remaining are:

1. With the car off or running I still get 12.46 volts at the battery. The alternator has been replaced and was tested before I installed it today.

2. I ran a test lead directly from the alternator Filed to the VR field and there was not difference.

3. I did replace the VR as well.

4. All ground surfaces have been sanded and cleaned.

5. I cleaned the junction box at the firewall, removing the male ends and cleaned both ends with electrical cleaner.

6. The car had the amp meter bypassed before I got the car. I noted when I replaced the instrument bezel.

6. The battery is new.

Any suggestions would be greatly welcome. I would like to drive this money pit some day soon.

What kind of system? Mechanical or Electronic ...The basic function of the charging system is controlled by the regulator.....It requires a Good Ground..Good ground connections between the battery, engine & body is a must..........

The first thing to check in any no charge condition is to make sure the battery negative cable, which should be bolted to the engine block or head, is in good condition, the ends are free of rust and corrosion, and that it is bolted tightly to the engine block/head.


The green field wire runs between one of the alternator fields, and the voltage regulator only.* This wire is used by the voltage regulator to control alternator field grounding.* Or more simply, this is the wire the VR uses to complete the alternator field circuit.


Now we are at the third item to check for a no-charge condition.* The voltage regulator provides a ground to the green field wire through it's case.* This means the bolts securing the voltage regulator to the firewall must be clean and tight.* Rust, corrosion, paint, loose bolts, etc can all cause a no charge or poor charge condition.


http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/256/page02.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IJKCOlTywg&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oitv2djx_Wg

 

[Mesopic]

Sounds like an intermittent fault in your alternator, Provided the wiring to your regular is fine.
Change your alternator-borrow someones cheapest bet.
Bla bla bla alternator test fine bla bla bla
CHANGE IT
An intermittent fault will NOT show up on tests
As it maybe load or heat related
This will fry your voltage regulator
So voltage regulator number four will need to be installed

- - - Updated - - -

Also old alternator with a fried voltage regulator may not work

 

[paladin06]

I give up! This freakin car has broke me. It's off to a shop when I can find a good one. Damn voltage drop is back. The car is NOT charging. The voltage at the battery reads higher with the car off then it does when it's running.:angryfire: Thanks all for you support.:eusa_doh:

 

[myaerocars]

I have been following this thread and hope you can get it sorted soon. I feel your pain as I have had electrical problems with my wife's daily driver and it drove me nuts!!
Good luck. You will get it sorted and be driving again soon.
Godspeed,
Jon

 

[paladin06]

I put the cover on it 5 days ago and have not looked at it since.

 

[paladin06]

I finally got it. Thanks everyone for your support. Details to follow. Special thanks to Pops1967GTX!!

 

[Sunset]

Same issues! Details please!

 

[paladin06]

As I stated in my other thread, the fault ended up being the high/low beam switch was not grounded the floor. Removed switch, sanded to bear metal, replaced the switch and BINGO!!! Thanks to Pops1967GTX.