HELP!!!! Starting Issues!!

[brandon64]

Pulled all the plugs and they are all wet but cant tell if it is fuel or antifreeze...There was defientely pressure in the radiator and when I pulled the cap it had white frothy foam and antifreeze gushed out. Which I dont think should have happened since it only ran a couple seconds. Soon as I find someone to help with the compression test I will report back with the numbers and see if that gets me somewhere.

I did stop at a mechanic shop on my way to school and asked a general ballpark price to have the head gasket replaced on the 225 and he looked it up in his computer and said it would be about a $650 just in labor plus parts plus the head would have to be resurfaced and a valve job done...so he guestimated $1200.

:spam dragon: dont have that kind of cash at the moment....

smell the plugs to see if it smells like fuel or coolant. The head gasket on a 225 is a pretty easy. Granted I've done it about 10 times but I can knock it out in about 2 hours. 650 for labor sounds a little high. I highly doubt the head needs to be resurfaced, and being a 74 it should already have the hardened valve seats so I don't see why a valve job would be necessary either. It sounds like the mechanic you talked to is not very familiar with the old 225.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

If antifreeze was getting into a cylinder,it would burn WHITE!!If you saw grey,look down the carb after starting to see if gas is pouring down.Could be a stuck fuel bowl float

 

[WileERobby]

If antifreeze was getting into a cylinder,it would burn WHITE!!If you saw grey,look down the carb after starting to see if gas is pouring down.Could be a stuck fuel bowl float

if he's trying to start it by flooding it, it can make the smoke appear grey... and the foaming in the radiator cap is from... what ?

 

[74Satellite]

Just picked up another compression tool from Azone..first 1 wouldnt hold pressure so I couldnt see what the cylinders were doing. Going to head outside here in a few and try this again. Thanks for all the input.

 

[shadango]

So, what did you find out? Get her running?

Better question -- how did your test go?

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

drain your oil, if you see milky white, you have a head gasket issue but your car should still run. could be timing chain issue,jumped a tooth.
my 1st guess was a bad worn fuel pump pushrod but you say your plugs are wet.

 

[74Satellite]

Still havent gotten her running yet...same issue..went out of town for the weekend to pick up a trailer load of roadrunner parts. I am on my third autozone rental tool and still ahvent got one that will keep the reading...even with someone helping the needle bounces so fast they cant read the guage. So going to try #4 tomorrow and see what I have.

Couldnt have happened at a worst time either....my wife keeps telling me to junk the car and for us to go down and get me a used reliable daily driver....pfft...this car is reliable!!! its the first time it has broken down....EVER!

Women......sometimes they are so aggravating

 

[74Satellite]

So, what did you find out? Get her running?

Better question -- how did your test go?

took a bicycle ride to the wifes work and grabbed her van to get to class. I was so stressed about the car I was worried that I would bomb the final. But I made a 93 on the final and ended up with an A in the class.

I also got the letter id been waiting for in the mail on Friday. I have been accepted into the Radiology Program starting next semester...2 year program with a 95% placement after graduation!!!!

Now if I can just get my car fixed before Summer I starts!

 

[Hemifried]

Shot in the dark here... but has it got the 2 or 4 prong ballast resistor? I've had the 4 prong ballast fail on the run side, but would fire up and run as long as you held the key in the crank position. I've also had the ignition control module do something similar... If you have spares around you might wanta try a switch a roo.... Hope she's up and running soon! Congrats on getting the acceptance letter!

 

[74Satellite]

Shot in the dark here... but has it got the 2 or 4 prong ballast resistor? I've had the 4 prong ballast fail on the run side, but would fire up and run as long as you held the key in the crank position. I've also had the ignition control module do something similar... If you have spares around you might wanta try a switch a roo.... Hope she's up and running soon! Congrats on getting the acceptance letter!

Thanks for the input, already tried swapping the ignition control module and the ballast resistor. I also swapped the ignition coil off the one on my 318. Im almost positive its the HG but I just want to get a functioning tool to verify the compression so i can be sure. I do not want to tear it down if I dont have to. The engine has just over 120,000 miles and has NEVER been broken open.

 

[74Satellite]

Ok, so I havent been able to test the compression either through operator error or defective equipment I have decided to try and rule everything else out that I can. I do know that the first 4 cylinders have compression of at least 120 but wasnt able to check the other 2.

Now it seems that I dont have spark at all where as I had a weak spark before. I have performed the following actions:

-Had Electronic Ignition Control module tested : Good
-Replaced the original Mopar Ignition Coil
-Replaced the original Mopar Fuel pump (Mainly because its right next to the coil and I was there so changed it out for good measure)
-Had the wife turn the ignition while looking into the valve cover and rocker arms are moving so that confirmed the timing chain wasnt broken.
-Verified ALL vacuum lines are connected and correct.
-Replaced ballast resistor
-checked obvious grounds

So far no change...just cranks over doesnt even attempt to fire. Does sound kind of strange while cranking over Little faster than normal and in cylces.

What should I do next.

 

[Coronet 500]

Check your timing chain easily by turning crankshaft back and forth until you feel resistance that is when you are starting to turn the cam and push all the valve gear and springs. When you get a "feel" for it the amount the crank moves will tell if it is loose but not if it has jumped like super said. They have to get pretty loose before they jump. While your down there take off the distributor cap and watch how the rotor moves. It is geared directly to the camshaft.

 

[74Satellite]

Check your timing chain easily by turning crankshaft back and forth until you feel resistance that is when you are starting to turn the cam and push all the valve gear and springs. When you get a "feel" for it the amount the crank moves will tell if it is loose but not if it has jumped like super said. They have to get pretty loose before they jump. While your down there take off the distributor cap and watch how the rotor moves.

So if I use this method, couldnt I take out all the spark plugs, turn the crank till the #1 cylinder is at TDC then pop the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If it is pointing at #1 plug wire that would rule out a jumped chain right?

 

[Coronet 500]

It would probably be close, but I still think you'll find it loose first. I've never seen one jump then tighten up. If it has a nylon tooth cam sprocket and some have broken it might be loose in just some spots. Usually when they wear or break off it will back fire through the carb and be a real mess.

 

[74Satellite]

Do you think it would be a good idea at over 120,000 miles to go ahead and just change the chain and gears and reset timing while I am at it?

 

[74Satellite]

pics

Here are a couple pictures

1st picture is my mostly original 120,000+ leaning tower or power

2nd picture is of the new coil and fuel pump

3rd picture is one where I am wondering what that square on the fire wall is with the red push button. It has a ground wire attached to it as well as a electrical connector in with the same harness that goes to the control module

4th picture is just another one of the engine in my Satellite Dont mind the mess...its my daily driver or at least was till 2 weeks ago

 

[Coronet 500]

Tough call 74, yes it is probably worn and changing it would be a good idea for long term reliability and they're not expensive. It dosn't solve the other or "first" problem you brought here. I always like to know what the complete problem is with an engine, make a plan, do a cost analysis and do all the work at once if it's the best option to repair not replace. I have like many changed parts, chasing a problem, only to find I misdiagnosed it and wasted money and more importantly time.
My opinion is to do the crank trick, a good and full compression test and maybe a coolant pressure test then decide what is next.

Just now saw your pictures, if the belt is tight and it looks like you don't have a viscous fan rather than putting a wrench on the crank you can move the fan back and forth to see how loose the chain is. Easy but wear gloves or use rags, those blades are sharp.