help unloading torsion bar

[70bee]

working on my 70 gtx changing torsion bars and rebuilding front end the head on the t bolt broke off on driver side now i know im screwed anybody know how i can unload the bar safely thanks

 

[q-ship]

If it broke off where you can use a nut on the bolt, you can weld it to the remaining stud, use plenty of penetrating oil, some heat, and it should screw out.

Otherwise the only solution that I am aware of is to remove the T bar retaining clip from the rear; separate the lower ball joint from the spindle; remove the lower control arm nut (from the front of the K frame), then use the longest crow bar you can get and pry the lower control arm rearwards (crow bar between the rear of the K frame and lower control arm). ..... this will result in a rather violent movement of the lower control arm when the bar unloads, so be as far away from everything as possible (reason for a long crowbar).

Good luck, and don't get hurt.

 

[70bee]

thanks ill try it broke about a tread below the bar

 

[Dukes69]

How about heating the bar up with a torch to get the spring out. The bar will be junk, but you may have a better chance of not getting hit with flying debris!

Try welding a nut on the broken stud first, thats the best bet.

 

[Donny]

Or, if you are changing out the T Bars, you could torch cut it in half? Sort of crude...but, at least there will be no violent throw back with crow bars etc.

 

[Crunchy_Frog]

Can you use a jack under the LCA (to maintain the tension), disassemble everything like you would have if you didn't brake the screw, then release the tension with the jack? I would have to get under mine to see if it's doable.

 

[69 Runner]

Good god that's a bad idea to cut the bar if it still has a load on it.

 

[q-ship]

"Good god that's a bad idea to cut the bar if it still has a load on it."
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I couldn't agree more! You could be killed by a several foot long length of steel torsion bar that is unloading at 1200 lbs+ while not contained. Same goes for torching it.

The method I described keeps everything contained as the lower control arm pivot is still in the K-frame, the torsion bar is still in the body frame, the lower control arm is still attached to the torsion bar and K-frame pivot, and the end of the lower control arm will only move about 6" to 8" inches as it unloads (though it does this with amazing force).

To add to my original description, with a 3 or 4 foot crow bar, this can be done from above unless the engine has headers that are in the way.

The method I described is how the dealership mechanics did it while up on a lift. just make sure you are not under the end of the lower control arm, and that the crow bar is as close to the pivot as possible. The results are no damaged parts, nothing "flying" anywhere, and no one getting hurt.

P.S. as an addition to my original post, I forgot to say that you will need to remove the strut rod bolt from the lower controll arm, and if you have a swaybar, disconnect it from the lower control arm also.

 

[70bee]

thanks i got it done your way with the crowbar sounded better less chance of getting hurt it sure hit the floor with force like i said thanks

 

[Donny]

I would torch it if I had to. I'd use a long torch, get behind some blocks, and heat it up, let it just release itself bit by bit. It's only about 1 inch of twist in it, if both ends are locked in their respective places; lower control arm, and cross member, then what's going to go flying?

 

[PDFROGMAN]

I would torch it if I had to. I'd use a long torch, get behind some blocks, and heat it up, let it just release itself bit by bit. It's only about 1 inch of twist in it, if both ends are locked in their respective places; lower control arm, and cross member, then what's going to go flying?

I have cut out a torsion bar with wheels hangin with no problem
bar twisted while bar was melting
made a great cheater bar when I was done