Help with ignition switch issues!

[340 Dude]

Hi folks! I am in need of some assistance with my 1973 340 Rally Charger. I recently replaced my Ignition switch in the column and the plug is different on the new switch than it is on the old one. This new switch has a black wire where a orange wire (from my gear selector in the column) goes. I went ahead and pulled the black wire out of the new harness and replaced it with the orange wire. Will this be okay? I was going to tape up the end of the black wire and tuck it up behind the dash somewhere. Also, while replacing the switch it looks like the wiring at one time got hot and melted part of the old switch harness (prior to me owning the car) and the part of the harness attached to the car as well (the large red wire was the one melted). I had no issues before pulling the motor out 10 years back. Unfortunately the car side harness has fallen apart and I wanted to know if anyone knows where I can get a replacement harness plug that I can splice in. Thanks for taking the time to read my post and I welcome all responses. 340 Dude

 

[340 Dude]

Here are a few pics. The first one shows the old switch broken with the orange wire. Second one shows old switch and other half of old plug. Third one shows car side plug(notice yellow jumper lug when they bypassed the plug). This is what I need to replace as it fell apart when I tried to plug it back in. The last photo shows plug on new switch with black wire where orange should be. I hope this helps. Thanks for all your help!

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

The replacement ign switches with the extra small black wire were intended for a C-body application with “Wheel slip brake control system”. The small black wire grounds to the switch case while cranking only. Remove it from connector and tape it off.

 

[340 Dude]

Thanks 72rrgtx I will cut the end off and tape it off.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

BTW, you will notice the large red & black wires are longer on the replacement switch and are not installed in the Molex connector. The intent was to bypass the Molex connector on the two high load connections. Would have been packaged with Packard connectors, and instructions, to bypass the Molex connector altogether. I would recommend using another type high current connectors like PowerPole connectors as a replacement to the Molex connectors on the high load wires.

 

[340 Dude]

Thanks 72rrgtx,
I think that would surely be the way to go with bypassing the stock Molex connector. Do the pins and sockets have to be removed to use these connectors? I already pushed them into the Molex and there are a pain to get out. Can I just cut the wires off at the Molex and use the Powerpole types? I still have to find a car side replacement plug but if it is better for the red and black I will go that route. Can I replace the plugs totally with the Powerpole connectors or should I find a stock style plug and just do the 2 large wires by themselves?

Thanks for all the help and info.
340 Dude

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Very little current on the smaller wires, could use what’s left of your Molex connector or Packard connectors. The Powerpole connectors come in different sizes, current ratings, wire sizes. I eliminate the Molex altogether and run Powerpoles on all leads. The Molex connectors will not hold up to the switch loads.

 

[340 Dude]

Sounds like its time order some Powerpoles and get to work! Thanks again for the help 72rrgtx