Help with my 71' roadrunner

[CtownChris]

I know someone who might be looking for a black 70 RR bench with silver trim and a 4 spd.
None air grabber hood and trunk lid.
Oh and front drums too.

 

[69 Runner]

lol

 

[Patrick]

I've found over the years that the best disk set stock. Is from a 73 to 79 B body. The spindle is about a half inch higher on the knuckle than a 66 to 72, but. It gives you more caster and camber adjustment and lowers the front a half inch. Of course you can get that back with your T bars.
Be sure what ever you go with to get the master cylinder and portioning valve. The 10 psi of brake pressure that stays on a drum wheel cylinder will fry disc brake pads.

 

[patmckinneyracing]

I've done a lil more researching on the car in the past couple months.

The car has the 346 heads and am debating over rebuilding them or buying a set of 915 aluminum complete heads that were in a magazine for $900.

Second, I need to know which disc brake spindles will work on my 71'. The problem I've found is that starting in 72', B bodies got this rubber biscuit in between the k-frame and frame. This makes the disc spindle taller than those of 71' because they didn't have this rubber piece there. From what I've heard, If I used this spindle, it would throw off the whole front end and fry my ball joints.

Another thing, I have been looking at the codes on the fender tag and have figured out most of them. The codes that I cannot find are what wheels the car came with, if it was a sold car/bank/ etc., rear end code, and a few others. Is there somewhere else on the car to look for codes?

Finally is there any way that chrysler or another group has saved information on these cars. The build sheet in this car is in pieces from that stupid mouse nesting in the back seat. I've taken out the headliner and carpet and have found no other sheets.

 

[69 Runner]

There won't be a code for wheels on the fender tag, even if it had an optional wheel on it from the factory. Only place to find that is on your mouse-riddled build sheet.

The 346 heads are as good as anything else is. But if you're planning on DRIVING this, then you will need to have hard seats installed (bronze guides are nice too). I ran them on my 69 383 Bee and had no problems. Went consistent 13.50s (with a best of a .42 @103.2) with them and the motor was really mild.

 

[patmckinneyracing]

Thanks for that bit of info. I was curious whether the 346 heads had the hardened valve seats so that answers that question. When I first got the car, it started right up but we weren't sure if it had those seats so we only ran it for two to three minutes. Would there be a benefit if I did go with a larger valves and those bronze guides? People dog the 346 heads over on Moparts because supposedly there an emission head and open chamber crap.

As far as the rims, what did most roadrunners come with? I just contacted the Chrysler Historical Collection last night in an attempt to find a copy of my build sheet along with any other info.

 

[69 Runner]

A 346 is the same as a 452 except for the induction hardened seats, which you will probably lose if much work needs to be done to the seats during a valve job. As far as bigger valves goes, there is no need for them unless you're going for a lot of power and more than 6000 rpm (in a 440). My (ex) six pack Challenger was making 419 to the rear wheels and had stock size valves (it was a certified pure stock motor). Car ran easy 12s on repop Polyglas tires. So why do you need more?

As far as wheels goes, I would guess that lots of 71s came with Ralley wheels. They were very popular, but also expensive (at the time). Was the same with the E body cars. Ralleys were really popular. But my Challenger (which was a real 440 Six Pack R/T) originally had 14" road wheels (magnums). Bottom line is there really isn't much tellin. I didn't put Ralleys or road wheels on my just to be different.

 

[patmckinneyracing]

The main idea of the build is to keep the car looking very stock and clean up the heads and put in a mild cam. I was looking at the 484 mp grind, but a friend of mine who built mopar race motors back in the 60's and 70's suggests that I go with the 474 grind due to the 4 speed and my intentions of keeping the factory AC. Supposedly it'll keep the car a nice driver and still get me over the 425 hp rating i'm hoping to achieve.

With the rims, I was thinking a nice set of steelies with dog dish hub caps would keep that simple aggressive look but then I saw a nice set of magnums that would be really nice. I guess there's a company manufacturing 17x8 magnum rims and other mopar rims.

 

[69 Runner]

IF you're wanting to keep it looking "original", then I'm guessing you're not running headers. And if you're not running headers you don't want to run that cam. I doubt it will make 425hp anyway. If you're running manifolds then you should run the same cam I had in my Six Pack. IF the magazine that did the recap on the races figured things right, then I was making well over 450 at the flywheel......with a "stock" cam and 906 heads.

just a thought

 

[patmckinneyracing]

I have the hi-po manifolds, which is a good plus. I planned on opening them up with a burr and running a 3in. exhaust in order to help compensate for the manifolds. Just kinda sucks because the factory exhaust and mufflers are on the car and just have surface rust. The pipes are solid and I believe they're 2 1/4 pipe.

 

[69 Runner]

Then don't change or alter them. You don't need to. My manifolds were unaltered, except for the flap for the heat riser was removed. I was running TTI 2.5" mandrel bent with Walker mufflers tho.:giggle:

I ran a best of [email protected] on those Polyglas tires getting NO traction. Weighed 3960 with me in it too.

 

[Revhendo]

BigBlockDart.com has all the info on the later B car spindles.

 

[dantrap]

Hey Pat, great Car. Build it the way you want it. Just take the time to do it correctly. Take a look at the year one F.A.S.T. type cars. It just might catch your interest. Good luck.

 

[71gtx]

71 road runner

I've done a lil more researching on the car in the past couple months.

The car has the 346 heads and am debating over rebuilding them or buying a set of 915 aluminum complete heads that were in a magazine for $900.

Second, I need to know which disc brake spindles will work on my 71'. The problem I've found is that starting in 72', B bodies got this rubber biscuit in between the k-frame and frame. This makes the disc spindle taller than those of 71' because they didn't have this rubber piece there. From what I've heard, If I used this spindle, it would throw off the whole front end and fry my ball joints.

the 70 -72 disc spindle are the same ones as the 70 - 74 e-body

the tall ones are from 73- up
the 1973 cars are from aug 1972 - june 1973
1972 cars are aug 71- june 1972
1972 b-body cars do not come with rubber biscuit the 1973s do:grin:

 

[71gtx]

U sold car ? on the tag

U- USA built to U.S. specs.
c can built to Canada specs
I int built to export specs

 

[dave755]

Nice bird.
as for the wheels a lot of guys in the 70's put Keystone classic's on their cars. They were very close to the magnum but a little more stylish. I've got them on my 71 and I get a lot of compliments on them.