Here is what's on my table

[Boise68]

Almost have the driver's side wrapped up, just add grease and brake lines.

 

[vj318]

great looking car. love the color. the electrolyte bath sounds like something I would like to try. hope to be able to rebuild the suspension on my 70 belvedere in a year or two. Question for you, how high does the amperage have to be from the battery charger.

 

[tallhair]

Looking good ... thanks for this thread. Make sure you give a report on how well the upgrades work on the road

 

[Boise68]

great looking car. love the color. the electrolyte bath sounds like something I would like to try. hope to be able to rebuild the suspension on my 70 belvedere in a year or two. Question for you, how high does the amperage have to be from the battery charger.

Any amp will do, I always use the twelve volt setting, highest amp. Just remember to not immerse the positive side battery clamp into the water, it will corrode. In a 5 gal. bucket the lower control arm completely derusts overnight.

 

[Boise68]

Final Steps...Bleeding the brakes...

After configuring lines to accommodate the Brake proportioning valve and residual valve I started to bleed the brake lines. The system is disc up front, drums rear, new lines only to the factory distribution block & and of course to the front calipers. After much pumping of the brakes and bleeding the front(where the new lines are) I still am not getting any'pedal', it just goes to the floor. I did bench bleed the master before installation.



I am tempted to bench bleed the master while it is in the car, perhaps my first attempt wasn't thorough enough? I will make sure the MC is level, the car was elevated in front during my last bleeding attempt.

Also I am wondering if the stock brake push rod is long enough to fully actuate the Wilwood MC. If I disassemble the brake rod from the pedal I can simulate the pedal stroke and see if the brake rod has enough travel to fully pump the MC?

Any suggestions, I found this link for adjustable brake rods on a thread here on FBBO, many thanks to OP: http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rc14

 

[67 coronet]

if you are not sure about the bench bleed of the master,then redo it.make sure you actuate the plunger all the way to the end.otherwise you will not get all the air out.its gonna take a ton of pumping with your adjustable prop above the master.i mount mine right after the diverter block,in the line to the rear.you shouldnt have brake lines higher then the master resevoir.

 

[Boise68]

if you are not sure about the bench bleed of the master,then redo it.make sure you actuate the plunger all the way to the end.otherwise you will not get all the air out.its gonna take a ton of pumping with your adjustable prop above the master.i mount mine right after the diverter block,in the line to the rear.you shouldnt have brake lines higher then the master resevoir.

Thanks for the heads up on P-valve location, I was going for something similar to Andy F's book pic but I see my application put the vavle too high. I can switch the location of the residual valve and P valve. Going to re-bleed the master cylinder.

 

[Chris]

Thanks for the heads up on P-valve location, I was going for something similar to Andy F's book pic but I see my application put the vavle too high. I can switch the location of the residual valve and P valve. Going to re-bleed the master cylinder.

Your car is a beauty.. Real nice work.. I was there two years ago. Get ready to enjoy some vastly improved handling and stopping power...

 

[Boise68]

Chris, Looks like you have a beauty as well! Did you stick with drums in the rear, or disc on all four?

I am really looking forward to the new brakes...Called Wilwood and with the 1.00 bore tandem MC it is suggested to utilize an aftermarket adjustable brake rod. Also the suggestion is to place the residual valve within 12 inches of the MC, using it for my rear drums left in place.

 

[Boise68]

Finished, almost, still needs alignment

After switching location of the Proportioning valve and the residual valve, brake bleeding was accomplished. Good pedal feel. The adjustable brake push rod was just the ticket for the new Wilwood MC.



Moving to the rear brakes, an inspection showed the previous owner had kept them in good condition.



Thinking about using Firm Feels carbon metallic pads as an upgrade though?

http://www.firmfeel.com/carbonme_b.htm

With rear drums off they spent the night in the electrolysis bath.



A little wire wheel action and charcoal paint spruced up the rear drums.

Now she is ready to be driven!



First impressions of the suspension upgrades is, 'Oh this is just too much fun'. The combination of front end upgrades in addition to the Hotchkis rear leaf/shocks is impressive. Now I need more throttle! ;) The Wilwood front discs upgrade are good enough to allow a level of braking confidence even in city traffic. A little tuning of the Proportioning Valve will probably be necessary when I can get on pavement that is not so sticky--it was 90 plus degrees the last 3 days here in Boise.

One more thing: thanks to all those who have offered advice, posted related threads, this forum really is the best!!!

 

[Propwash]

Nice thread! Lotta good information. Good work and have fun with her!

 

[Budnicks]

Boise68 the final product looks great, love the stance, should be a world different handling now, great detailed photos & tech tips....

 

[67 coronet]

turned out real nice.glad to hear all your problems are solved.if you are gonna push it hard at the ssc you might think about that rear disc swap.thats a lot of car you are stopping.get used to driving it hard for an extended time and put some abuse on those brakes long before you try the race.

 

[Boise68]

67 Coronet, thanks for the heads up about the 'rears' and doing the ssc. Since I'd want to keep the tapered bearings I am finding that Cass probably has what I need. Looking forward to some extended runs, for sure.

 

[Budnicks]

67 Coronet, thanks for the heads up about the 'rears' and doing the ssc. Since I'd want to keep the tapered bearings I am finding that Cass probably has what I need. Looking forward to some extended runs, for sure.

What is Cass ?? am I missing something here

 

[Boise68]

What is Cass ?? am I missing something here

Sorry about the reference, was referring to Cass's (aka Dr.Diff)rear disc solution that utilizes the tapered bearings vs. others that use the 'green' bearings.

 

[Budnicks]

Sorry about the reference, was referring to Cass's (aka Dr.Diff)rear disc solution that utilizes the tapered bearings vs. others that use the 'green' bearings.

I was wondering WTH that was... thanks for the heads up

 

[charger360]

sweet ride!

 

[tallhair]

After switching location of the Proportioning valve and the residual valve, brake bleeding was accomplished. Good pedal feel. The adjustable brake push rod was just the ticket for the new Wilwood MC.

Moving to the rear brakes, an inspection showed the previous owner had kept them in good condition.



Thinking about using Firm Feels carbon metallic pads as an upgrade though?

http://www.firmfeel.com/carbonme_b.htm

With rear drums off they spent the night in the electrolysis bath.

A little wire wheel action and charcoal paint spruced up the rear drums.

Now she is ready to be driven!

First impressions of the suspension upgrades is, 'Oh this is just too much fun'. The combination of front end upgrades in addition to the Hotchkis rear leaf/shocks is impressive. Now I need more throttle! ;) The Wilwood front discs upgrade are good enough to allow a level of braking confidence even in city traffic. A little tuning of the Proportioning Valve will probably be necessary when I can get on pavement that is not so sticky--it was 90 plus degrees the last 3 days here in Boise.

One more thing: thanks to all those who have offered advice, posted related threads, this forum really is the best!!!

I'm really enjoying and appreciating this thread Boise. Thanks for all the udpates

 

[Boise68]

Thanks Tallhair, glad to share my adventure, as well as read about other's here on FBBO.