• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Holley carb diagnosis

I have tried about everything that has been mentioned, but a 4 speed heavy car is a different breed of cat than an automatic with some stall. Thanks for your input on maybe using vac, secondary carb................................MO
After reading this post, with your gearing your issue may be too much fuel on initial throttle as opposed to too much air... regardless of the carb size, if the mixture is overly rich or overly lean in that instant the car will bog( or hesitate, or stumble)... it's a possibility. You may try getting a leaner initial shot and see what it does
 
Just spit-balling here; sorry in advance for the short book
{?} not enough Ignition timing {too retarded} could very well
be a contributing factor here too
{it's not uncommon, especially for a lower compression engine,
especially with a big cam to want like 20* initial advance {38*+ total}
vs the normal 10*-12* initial advance {32*-34* total many say to do}
like a stock or higher compression build, it's kind of a band-aide (advancing),
usually kind of for a miss matched/wrong parts combos}

what is you timing set at ?
What is the initial & total advance in degrees ?
when is the advance all in ? & at what RPM ?
you said it has a Chyrsler EI, does it have an adjustable vacuum advance ?
if so, how much timing is added by the centrifugal &/or vacuum advance ?
what box controller are you using orange ? chrome ? or some other aftermarket box
does it have any modifications to the centrifugal weights ?
or the advance springs {lighter} to get the timing in a bit quicker/earlier ?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

just for curiosity;
how big of a camshaft does it have ? what is it ? what was it set at ?
when installed & was it degreed in ? a what deg. &/or advanced or retarded ?
if it's retarded & low compression it could be an issue
{albeit most modern cams are ground with advance for timing chain stretch like 2*-4* advance}

does it have headers & free flowing exhaust ?
what other mods were done to the engine ?
does it have adjustable rocker arms ? if so are they adjusted properly ?
{proper length pushrods}
did you do "any other or multiple changes" before trying the said carb ?
does it have a free flowing air cleaner element ? {like a K&N or is it paper}
& have you tried it without the air-cleaner ? {does it improve any}


--------------------------------------------------------------
bear with me here, I know these are kind of **** questions,
some of the stuff is for general knowledge,
some of it could seriously affect your type of tune...
more information we can get the better,
it will help & not have to go back & forth Q&A

does it {lean} surge when you cruising ?
or does it hold a constant rpm when you hold it at like 2500-3k rpm in neutral ?
no surging, while trying that ?
if it does any of these 2 above, it's probably too lean or a vacuum leak
or a serious ignition issue somewhere

like said before by a couple people,
too lean can cause it to bog bad too
& so will way too fat can too
not enough Hp, {honestly not trying to be a prick} to get a bit of tire spin/wheel-speed,
dead hook can bog even a hi-hp manual combo at too low of an RPM
{probably realistically not the issue here}
or missed mixed/matched parts, just thrown together, parts/combos
not liking each other, can cause a serious bog or tuning issues too...

IMO a Holley 750cfm DP should run like a raped ape,
it's a bit small, but should work OK {850-950cfm could be better}
it may not be jetted correctly, bad accelerator pump charge etc.
when you look down the carb & goose it does it have a
"nice full spray/even stream, out of both the squiters" {discharge nozzles}
also are you at any real altitude ?
or the float levels are set too low for it flowing/running condition
it should be trickling out of the fuel level bowl sight when it's idling
{also if it's overfull or going past the needle & seat (what ever causing it) it /fuel could
come out the top vents on top, you can add a piece of rubber hose to them, to keep it/fuel
from slouching out & into the carb, that can cause a bog on hard launches too}

do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? if so what's it doing when you nail it ?
If not I'd suggest to get one & if nothing else for tuning purposes...
Does it have an electric pump ? if so which ?
does it have a mechanical pump ? if so which ?
have you tested the fuel flow/gpm ?
you can do it running into a can & see how much fuel it flowing
{probably not the issue, but lets cover all basis's...
do you have a regulator inline ? if so what's it set at ? what style ?
is it a bypass or dead head style ?
{bypass with a return line back to the tank for unneeded fuel is always better}
either (should be set between 5.5psi & 7psi usually/flowing pressure preferably)
have you tried a vacuum gauge, see where it's at ?

you can Google or Bing search Tuning a carburetor with a vacuum gauge
for some basics

check for a few simple things

check the clearances on the accelerator pump, make sure it's not sloppy
maybe change the acc. pump cam so it gets a better initial squirt,
more fuel right off idle
also maybe a little bigger "squiter" acc. pump nozzle go up 2 sizes
if it makes it worse, than go the other way
you can also slightly bend {Straighten IIRC} the secondary linkage
to have the secondary's open latter
but that's just a band-aide covering up another tuning issue usually

I hope some of my short book helps directs you in the correct directions :popcorn:
I hope I haven't confused the **** out of you too... :lol:

I highly recommend

View attachment 571825

View attachment 571826
Thanks Budnicks, I appreciate the time it took you to give this extensive advice. Most all of it , I already know and have tried many of them with not many good results. There are several things you cover that I will try though. My engine does not have a very high performance cam and not a lot of compression . I thought about a 50 cc secondary accelerator pump, but I don't think my set up would benefit from it.
I think I have a vacume secondary 750 cfm carb in storage, that I have plenty of parts to freshen it up and experiment with that a little bit. I see you can get a kit for them, to make vac. diaphram spring changes easily accessable.
Thanks all for your input....................MO
 
IMO a vacuum carb MAY work better/easier. If it's convenient, try it. I found a vacuum carb (Holley 3310-1 780cfm) worked fine on my street 383 (2bbl motor converted to 4bbl w/headers, 3.23 & 12" converter) but it still took trying different vacuum springs, shooter sizes & cams. You then have the variability of vacuum related throttle open position & airflow/distribution. Good luck. Very thorough advice from Budnicks.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top