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Holley plumbing?

Here are some other examples I snagged from the interwebs:

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I've got fuel line issues on my Holley 4160 dual feed. After cleaning the fuel line threads that screw into the carburetor inlets, they are now leaking (with them being tightened as much as I can without stripping the threads). They weren't leaking before I cleaned them with a chaser nut. I think applying Permatex High Temperature Sealant to them would stop the leaking (which is the same stuff I put on my exhaust manifold studs to seal them). I thought flared end metal fuel lines were not supposed to require a sealant applied to the threads? What I cleaned off with the chaser nut may have been some kind of sealant.

My other issues with the current fuel lines are 1) having to disconnect the main line running to the junction block, and move that line out of the way, to be able to remove the valve cover. 2) That same line is run so close to the valve cover it is almost making contact with it. 3) I have to completely remove the dual feed lines and junction block, to be able to access the fast idle adjustment screw with a 1/4" wrench.

My 383 has a Hemi style mechanical fuel pump with the Hemi Fuel Vapor Regulator/filter installed. Off hand I don't know the diameter of the Vapor Regulator fuel outlet barb. The outside diameter of the existing metal fuel lines running to the carb is .313" (5/16").

I'm leaning toward one of the two solutions shown, in this thread.

Post #7 (flexible braided lines, with the braided line run down to my Fuel Vapor Regulator/filter's fuel outlet)

Post#22 (Speed 21001 Stainless Steel Fuel Line Kit Holley 4150 Quick Fuel Black -6 AN). I would need to run hose or braided line from Fuel Vapor Regulator/filter to the line input.

I may try to PM the members that made post #7 and #22. Have to update the post yet again. I guess I was right the first time. I have a 4160 as explained to me by a speed shop employee. Therefore the line in post #22 won’t work for me. I ended up buying an Edelbrock flexible dual feed line made to use on either 4150 or 4160. So will try that..

Either of these lines would have to run between the dist cap and vaccuum advance diaphragm. But that is how the factory routed the line on a 440 Six Pack.

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Looks like I'm heading to Harbor Freight to buy a flare tool and bender.
I have, and use, some harbor frieght tools, but do yourslf a favor. Get quality flaring tools. I wouldnt even THINK about hf for those. I had a craftsman set (from when craftsman was still american made!) and i cant count the poorly done flairs that i had to throw away. I bought a blue point (snap on) set to redo the lines for my sixpack, and haven't trashed a line since.
You might also need an assortment of bending tools (look for ones that will bend the tightest radius), and i dont think i would go to hf for those either, but the benders are FAR more likely to work than hf tubing flare tools!
 
As for your lines, i like the braided line solutions. On my cars with big electric pumps, i use a regulator mounted to the passenger inner fender (nhra ILlegal to mount to firewall) and then a braided line from the regulator to each fuel bowl. The idea is to be able to change jets without having to unhook fuel lines, just unbolt the bowls and move them out of the way.
 
Anyone know what the hose barb outlet diameter is supposed to be for the fuel outlet on the factory HEMI fuel vapor regulator/filter? Mine currently has an unidentified hose running from the outlet barb to a 5/16” hard fuel line. You would think the hose is 5/16” but I thought the HEMI regulator outlet is 3/8” as HEMI cars are supposed to have 3/8” fuel lines. Unless I’m wrong about that too.
 
I've got fuel line issues on my Holley 4160 dual feed. After cleaning the fuel line threads that screw into the carburetor inlets, they are now leaking (with them being tightened as much as I can without stripping the threads). They weren't leaking before I cleaned them with a chaser nut. I think applying Permatex High Temperature Sealant to them would stop the leaking (which is the same stuff I put on my exhaust manifold studs to seal them). I thought flared end metal fuel lines were not supposed to require a sealant applied to the threads? What I cleaned off with the chaser nut may have been some kind of sealant.

My other issues with the current fuel lines are 1) having to disconnect the main line running to the junction block, and move that line out of the way, to be able to remove the valve cover. 2) That same line is run so close to the valve cover it is almost making contact with it. 3) I have to completely remove the dual feed lines and junction block, to be able to access the fast idle adjustment screw with a 1/4" wrench.

My 383 has a Hemi style mechanical fuel pump with the Hemi Fuel Vapor Regulator/filter installed. Off hand I don't know the diameter of the Vapor Regulator fuel outlet barb. The outside diameter of the existing metal fuel lines running to the carb is .313" (5/16").

I'm leaning toward one of the two solutions shown, in this thread.

Post #7 (flexible braided lines, with the braided line run down to my Fuel Vapor Regulator/filter's fuel outlet)

Post#22 (Speed 21001 Stainless Steel Fuel Line Kit Holley 4150 Quick Fuel Black -6 AN). I would need to run hose or braided line from Fuel Vapor Regulator/filter to the line input.

I may try to PM the members that made post #7 and #22. Have to update the post yet again. I guess I was right the first time. I have a 4160 as explained to me by a speed shop employee. Therefore the line in post #22 won’t work for me. I ended up buying an Edelbrock flexible dual feed line made to use on either 4150 or 4160. So will try that..

Either of these lines would have to run between the dist cap and vaccuum advance diaphragm. But that is how the factory routed the line on a 440 Six Pack.

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I never commented on how I solved my problem above. The stainless steel line going to the secondary inlet was too long. I had it shortened and re-flared by a shop that had a tube flaring machine that could flare stainless steel tube. Now the primary and secondary lines are equidistant from their inlets. After this modification, I could tighten the nuts down properly and get a leak free seal. So I did not have to replace any lines or fittings..
 
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