Hueyguy
Member
I'm going over to a 1 wire alternator and on the front passenger side next to the radiator there is a relay that has a power wire that went to the back of my old alternator. Should I connect that back to the power on the alternator?
Horn relay power question
- Thread starter Hueyguy
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gkent
Well-Known Member
The horn is triggered by "ground" so its quite likely the "power" wire. You could connect it there but in this day and age its common to have a buss bar to run power off of.
It was a quick easy way to pick up power for the horn. But maybe not the best. An inline fuse would be a good improvement.
The horn is hardly ever in operation( if ever) so there's no need to reinvent that particular wheel.
MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
Hello, I am working on my 69 charger and am installing a new 100 amp alternator and get the horn relay part as discussed above, and that it could be re feed.. but what do we do with this black wire that appears to do several things in the dash?
does it stay?
I know I have to run a new 6 gauge wire direct to the battery for the new alternator.. but am not sure if I should also land the existing purple and black wires on the alternator like they used to be or if should refeed those?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
does it stay?
I know I have to run a new 6 gauge wire direct to the battery for the new alternator.. but am not sure if I should also land the existing purple and black wires on the alternator like they used to be or if should refeed those?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Oh no you di 'int!!!!!!
there's some pretty heavy duty discussions on the subject you will want to read ..
@72RoadrunnerGTX ??
MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
Please share a link.. I have been searchingh and I am trying to find my answer but unfortunately, i haven't been able to find exactly what I am looking for.. I very much would appreciate some sort of a link or direction.. Tia jeff
MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
Start here
Thread 'Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!' Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!
The black wire section is the one running back to the cab to feed all the car from the alt when engine is running and charge back the battery throught the ammeter if needed/required. So that wire is constantly hot linked to the battery.
Violet is the splice running to the horn relay to feed the horns when triggered from steering wheel.
So, the horn relay is allways being feeded from batt/alt network. Just being spliced there is the closer positive source to the batt AND the correct one on ammeter equipped cars.
Violet is the splice running to the horn relay to feed the horns when triggered from steering wheel.
So, the horn relay is allways being feeded from batt/alt network. Just being spliced there is the closer positive source to the batt AND the correct one on ammeter equipped cars.
MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
Excellent! Thank you!
MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
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MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
I just started watching your video series.. 1,2,&3 done.. they are terrific!
I am adding a 1-wire 100amp alternator, dual electric fans, electric headlight door motors from Topher, and Dakota Digital gauges.. I'll also likely be adding an aftermarket radio (or having my stock radio modernized) and a cb radio along with dixie horns.
As of right now, I do have lots of questions that I am currently researching..
If im correct, the Dakota Digital gauges do not come with an ammeter? But after watching your videos so far. I may consider adding one. I'm still not sure yet..
Not sure if I'll see this in your later videos? So I apologize for potentially asking too soon. But hypothetically, if I do NOT add an ammeter.. is it still worth doing the "fleet" upgrade? Or should I just bypass the ammeter leaving the factory ammeter wire landed on the alternator along with my new direct to battery #6. And by direct to battery, should I land on the solenoid post from the battery. Or on the battery lol?
****
*EDIT - I just watched video 4 and part of 5.. looks like the fleet bypass should be done regardless and if possible I should try and add an ammeter.
As of now my questions still stand about the black wire from the fleet bypass? (I realize the original black harness wire to the ammeter goes away and gets replaced by the heavier #6 if posaible) Does that still go onto the alternator along with the #6 the alternator calls for directly back to the battery?
****
I did subscribe to your channel and do hope to watch your videos from 4-on tonight.
Thanks in advance!
Jeff
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The vast majority of the info I’ve posted in the videos and typed out over the years, here and on other forums, is about understanding/retaining the stock ammeter functionality. There are some modified situations where the ammeter is not well suited or supported, as with Dakota Digital cluster or running a lot of high load aftermarket accessories. Happen to run a Dakota Digital RTX on one of my ‘72s. The full fleet by-pass won’t work, you do need to retain the power supply to splice one, it feeds the stock dash harness. Will not need to run any of the charge path wiring through into the passenger compartment.
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MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
Thank you so much!
It looks like.. if I understand this all right, which I think I do....
A) The factory alternator wiring will stand as it will feed the horn relay (violet) and "splice 1" (black) of the dash harness. However, I will add a fused #6 from the battery positive over to the alternator on the same stud.
B) The Ammeter wires get spliced together as the Ammeter gets eliminated.
C) wire in the Dakota gauges with battery feed off the starter relay.
D) add an additional fuse block and/or breakers off of the battery to run my additional accessories. ie: fan relays, and in my case, dixie horn relays, added headlight relays, etc.
Thanks so much! Also, thanks to your youtube videos I now have a much better understanding of the fleet bypass, Shunt bypass, and ammeter gauge benefits as well as concerns.
I appreciate you taking the time to respond to me and all the time you took to make that great youtube series.
Have a great night!,
Jeff
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You don't want to connect the ammeter leads together if you are running a direct wire run from the alternator to the starter relay. Take another look at the diagram above. Circuit breakers are available on Amazon in various sizes.
MJOEPFAFR
Well-Known Member
Wowee, okay, first off thanks for your patience with me. As you can tell, this is all a first for me..
But I do believe that I have the #6 direct wire to the pass through stud and then jumped over to the starter relay part sorted out now... I hope.
And if I'm correct then for Splice 1 - the ammeter black wire gets spliced to the wire landed in terminal "p" of the bulkhead.. however the wire at terminal "p" gets removed from the bulkhead and landed on that pass through stud which on the engine compartment side has the #6 direct wire landed on it. Which now eliminates the original black wire that went from the engine side of terminal "P" over to the alternator.
But what I do not see on your diagram is what to do with the red wire from the ammeter that went to terminal "j" on the bulkhead and through to the fusible link on the starter relay...
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