Hot dog in a hallway shifter

[Cheapsunglasses]

Alright, I might be exaggerating a wee bit. But I’m having sloppy shifter problems, and it’s annoying and embarrassing me, and I’m tired of it. I have an old Hurst shifter mechanism on my 68 GTX, if you can find first gear you have to punch the dash, and then go a little further to get it. Second gear you need to ask the back seat passenger for a hand, and then it’s back to hunting and punching the dash for 3rd, then right back to the back seat for 4th. That might be a bit of an exaggeration too, but you get the point. One of the biggest problems is finding first and third, stop at a stop light or a stop sign looking all cool, getting ready to take off looking cool…and ooh fecal matter that’s 3rd! Dang it, now I look like a chump!

So my question is, would buying a new shifter mechanism like this one from brewers change me from a 0 to a hero?

 

[eldubb440]

would buying a new shifter mechanism like this one from brewers change me from a 0 to a hero?

not a chance, but it may make your tranny shift better

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

not a chance, but it may make your tranny shift better

Dang, I set myself up for that one

So I guess the better question is will it turn my transmission from a 0 to hero

 

[toolmanmike]

Which shifter do you have. Sounds like a Inland to me by the way you describe the hotdog down a hallway. Does it have a round stick with a pull up reverse lock out? If a Hurst is yours adjusted properly? (obviously not)

Alright, I might be exaggerating a wee bit. But I’m having sloppy shifter problems, and it’s annoying and embarrassing me, and I’m tired of it. I have an old Hurst shifter mechanism on my 68 GTX, if you can find first gear you have to punch the dash, and then go a little further to get it. Second gear you need to ask the back seat passenger for a hand, and then it’s back to hunting and punching the dash for 3rd, then right back to the back seat for 4th. That might be a bit of an exaggeration too, but you get the point. One of the biggest problems is finding first and third, stop at a stop light or a stop sign looking all cool, getting ready to take off looking cool…and ooh fecal matter that’s 3rd! Dang it, now I look like a chump!

So my question is, would buying a new shifter mechanism like this one from brewers change me from a 0 to a hero?

View attachment 1385200

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I know it’s not an inland, but beyond that, I don’t have a clue, it was on the transmission when I got it, it says Hurst and it was a push in style.

 

[kiwigtx]

It doesn't take much wear or sloppiness in each joint along the way to accumulate to a really bad feel at the end of your stick.

Starting with the rods, bushes and levers - all of those can have severe wear, and that translates through to a lot of extra movement at your knob.

Check those items first, but also the rod connections and bushes (if there) at the fingers of the shifter mechanism.

Spending money on a new shifter mechanism may be a little premature without inspecting the other parts first.

Good luck.......I know what it's like to bang knuckles on the dash - my '70 RR did that initally....turned out I also had the wrong shifter mounting plate on the transmission. Changed that and problems went away.

 

[kiwigtx]

it says Hurst and it was a push in style.

That rubber connection can have a heap of wear also.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

That rubber connection can have a heap of wear also.

That rubber connection is no longer there, I made it a bolt in shifter.

I don’t think there’s any bushings in the fingers, the rod sticks through and there’s a bent washer springy thing (yeah I know, I don’t know the real name so enjoy that) and then the cotter pin

 

[kiwigtx]

That rubber connection is no longer there, I made it a bolt in shifter.

I don’t think there’s any bushings in the fingers, the rod sticks through and there’s a bent washer springy thing (yeah I know, I don’t know the real name so enjoy that) and then the cotter pin

Sounds like you need to go crawling underneath and check out those wear-points that I mentioned......bushes will likely be there only if someone had problems in the past. I suggest your rod-ends are worn, and the shift levers are flogged from hard shifting.

 

[hunt2elk]

I really like the new Hurst Competition + shifters. I replaced my original rebuilt ones in both my B-bodies with them. The positive stop bolts take up any excessive travel once you are in a gear. Only downside is you will have to drill holes in your handle to accept bolts, or find an aftermarket handle you can live with.

 

[moparedtn]

I have an original Hurst Competition Plus on mine (18 spline) and it's the latest of several I've owned
over the decades. They can be totally frustrating if things aren't spiffy - and I mean everything needs
to be proper in them, from the shifter unit itself having nice snug internals to the shift levers having
the proper metal bushings in them to tighten up slop.
But...
When they're right, they're wonderful. *snick* *snick* gear shifts, ahhhhh....
That sound along with the patented lower gear whine in a NP gearbox is music to me, man.

All the obvious - the levers on the transmission need to be uber tight (their holes waller out, too) and
an often overlooked part is that the adapter plate must be TIGHT on the transmission mount!
If that critter gets a little loose, the effect is magnified all the way down the line...

Finally - just how worn is the transmission itself? Inputs, forks, how's that rascal doing?

 

[jt4406]

adapter plate must be TIGHT on the transmission mount!

And the shifter box must be tight to the adapter plate. I would lay under the car and have someone shift through the gears while watching for unwanted slop or movement in the entire mechanism. If the slop is where the shifter stick slips into the box, you can buy replacement rubber pads for that. jt

 

[Outlawd]

I got same **** going on with my Coronet. I have the factory push in style pistol grip handle that has an enormous amount of play. I ordered a complete Hurst replacement kit comes with everything from the mounting plate to the pistol grip handle for console, nuts bolts clips rods the shifter mechanism, everything. Ordered it from The Shifter Doc a year and a half ago, still waiting for the handle on back order. Good thing I didn't rip out and sell the old stuff yet!!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I really like the new Hurst Competition + shifters. I replaced my original rebuilt ones in both my B-bodies with them. The positive stop bolts take up any excessive travel once you are in a gear. Only downside is you will have to drill holes in your handle to accept bolts, or find an aftermarket handle you can live with.

I already have a Hurst bolt in shifter

 

[BB BELLA]

pretty sure you can buy an entire rebuild kit for a hurst! I think the word your looking for is "wave" washer!I'd start with linkage inspection and then the shifter if that doesn't solve the problem you have trans. issues but rebuilding the shifter will never be money wasted if you have to spend on the 4speed.
can be pretty hard on the valve train when either isn't right!

 

[PlymCrazy]

I’m in a similar boat with the Duster. 3rd gear is as though it has its own zip code, in the way I have to reach so far out to get it. Never owned a 4-spd until this one. So I don’t really have a reference to something normal. I’ll give attention to it eventually. You fellas gave me some direction on what to look for to start though.

 

[bandit67]

I just put that same shifter and new handle in my 73 from Brewers and it made a world of difference. I assume my current shifter with slide in handle was worn way more than it looked. I may have the old one rebuilt just to see difference in the way the two different designs work. You will know for sure then just how worn your tranny is.

 

[BB BELLA]

I had the hurst ss in my 66 with 6" handle was really uncomfortable but banging gears was like an auto! 2-3 shift was hard to stay ahead in the seat and see over the dash leaning that far ahead!

 

[hunt2elk]

I already have a Hurst bolt in shifter

Then you are all set. I would pony up the couple hundred for a new one. Just my opinion of course.

 

[s/w theo]

There used to be a Hurst factory very close to me in Warminster, (I think) Pa. They would rebuild your shifter assembly to factory specs for a very reasonable price too, like $30! They are since long gone, but you just might need a re-build like kiwigtx suggested.