How much break in oil do I need for a 440?

[R413]

J Gibbs Driven BR30 Break In oil (regardless of it's Zinc & Zddp content ) has probably the Lowest Functional Anti-Friction wear protection package of Any commonly available motor oil & Least camshaft--Flat Tappet friction wear protection.....It's Lowest wear protection rating Will likely permit any new parts fit dimensional irregularities be most agressively self-clearanced wear mated in of all available motor oils & Least protective of Camshaft--Flat Lifter wear....If that's what you're looking for on first start up,... that's the oil (best friction in a can) product to use...

Where did you get this information? Can you share it. Yes I’m asking you to prove this statement.

I started using Joe Gibbs driven racing oil and break in oil on the 90’s on advice from a great local machinist/drag racer. Everyone using it has had zero problems. This includes new engine break in and decades of street operation and drag racing on various vehicles.

 

[Slap Stick]

Where did you get this information? Can you share it. Yes I’m asking you to prove this statement.

I started using Joe Gibbs driven racing oil and break in oil on the 90’s on advice from a great local machinist/drag racer. Everyone using it has had zero problems. This includes new engine break in and decades of street operation and drag racing on various vehicles.

A friend had nothing but blown engines using Gibbs oil and burning E100.
Contqcted Gibbs and they said it was a known problem and were working on it. They then on a later date said it was fixed so tried it again. Same problem.
Switched back to Rotella/Red Line/Royal Purple and no more problems.
Remember when na$car started using E15? Gibbs cars were blowing engines regularly.

 

[R413]

Ok thanks for clarifying. E100 is the key to the story, should have included that in your first post.

I use ethanol free on the street and race gas is real gas also.

 

[70rcode]

Hey 413,....Why do jacked up ?? ....I did use "probably" & "likely" in a "Relatively" comparative "Wear Protection" context in my Opine & Intended with or Without any "E" fuel content.....Check out "Motor Oil Engineering Test Data ---540 Rat" for some good, fair Lubricity wear test Data you're Not likely to get off any motor oil company product ad....

 

[66Satellite47]

J Gibbs Driven BR30 Break In oil (regardless of it's Zinc & Zddp content ) has probably the Lowest Functional Anti-Friction wear protection package of Any commonly available motor oil & Least camshaft--Flat Tappet friction wear protection.....It's Lowest wear protection rating Will likely permit any new parts fit dimensional irregularities be most agressively self-clearanced wear mated in of all available motor oils & Least protective of Camshaft--Flat Lifter wear....If that's what you're looking for on first start up,... that's the oil (best friction in a can) product to use...

So that would be a real short term break in oil, right? Maybe the dyno pulls and a few miles?

 

[Slap Stick]

Ok thanks for clarifying. E100 is the key to the story, should have included that in your first post.

I use ethanol free on the street and race gas is real gas also.

Ahem....that WAS my first post.

 

[70rcode]

With the Gibbs BR30 BI Oil coming in at #278 of 278 motor oils tested on a flat tappet/camshaft wear simulator,....Why Use it at all ?? .....For a flat tappet engine , A good non--synthetic, conventional motor oil like VR1 10W30, testing much better on the Flat Tappet Wear Test
Simulator would seem a considerably better choice Break-In & regular using oil choice

 

[51269]

this is why we buy a break in oil anyway, so you don’t have to mix and match stuff that may not mix well together.

When you mix conventional oil and a bottle of you favorite ZDDP, the high detergent in the oil fights the additives and it cannot do what it tells you it will do.

buy the right oil to begin with.

you wanna try and be a chemist with a new engine? Not me. I’ll trust the oil manyfacturer.

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Good stuff