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How much HP/Torque to target for my build?

Traction will be an issue, and if you get it to hook-up you might be quicker than 11.50 ET which is the point a Roll-Bar is required at the track.
I'm not sure about the 833 strength, I changed mine out for the LGT-700 5-speed, back when Keisler was selling them. Have Dana 60 with 3.54:1 gears. This is in my '69 Coronet Convertible with a 505" 440 stroker (0.030" over, 4.25" crank.) I don't have subframe connectors yet, but I haven't put sticky tires on it either, so it is difficult to hook up the one or two times a year I take it to the track. This is a pretty mild engine, maybe low to mid 500 HP? Never dynoed.
It is 10.3:1 compression with mild ported 440 source stealth heads (with I had the Trick Flow heads) Cam is a Comp Hydraulic roller XR286HR-10 (236/242duration at 0.050") Has very good torque. Originally had a Performer RPM intake and Holley 770 cfm carb, but this induction with air filter was too tall for stock hood. Now has Edelbrock XT EFI (sits lower than the RPM/Holley/3" air filter setup.)
This was my first hydraulic roller cam engine, and it revs pretty fast, have RPM limiter set at 6,000 RPM.
I'm afraid of floating the valves with the lower pressure valve springs. I think if I did this over, I would run a slightly larger solid roller cam and stiffer valve springs and let the engine rev higher. That might get it around the 600 HP mark?

Thanks.. I have the subframe connectors welded in and figured I would want at least a set of MT street slicks, SS springs and better shocks to hook up (this is minimum, I know that there is endless upgrades that would make it better).

Wish I had the money to swap in a better stick, but it is really out of reach at the moment.
 
Good read... How does she handle on the street?
The motor totally over powers the car, of course I could use sticky tires but that usually leads to crack or pop windshields for big torque motors. Positive thing is the motor starts easily, good behavior, runs on pump (91-93 octane) gas and can incinerate tires just slappng the throttle and with the cut-outs open running threw the x pipe makes a real roar. Could not be happier with CME. My personal opinion is big hp na motors (500+hp) are not very driveable and really deliver only bragging rights, they really belong on the strip. Keep one thing in mind, big hp means higher RPMs and higher rpms means higher quality parts and higher quality parts mean higher build costs. High rpm motors don't belong on the street. Build or have built something that puts out 500-600 tq at low rpms (where a street motor lives at) and you will be very satisfied. BTW, the more hp the more quality and strength needed in the rest of the drivetrain.
 
IQ52 just finished mine for me and I was tickled. We got 590hp & 575 tq from a +.030 440, could have maybe been more but I went the 6 bbl route.
I'm not sure of the limit of your 4 speed but I would think it would be ok with 500-550 if it's in good shape.
I think you would be happy with a 500-550 hp set up that would run on 89 octane gas. This would put you in the high 11's, low 12's depending on your chassis. And that my friend is a quick street car.
 
The motor totally over powers the car, of course I could use sticky tires but that usually leads to crack or pop windshields for big torque motors. Positive thing is the motor starts easily, good behavior, runs on pump (91-93 octane) gas and can incinerate tires just slappng the throttle and with the cut-outs open running threw the x pipe makes a real roar. Could not be happier with CME. My personal opinion is big hp na motors (500+hp) are not very driveable and really deliver only bragging rights, they really belong on the strip. Keep one thing in mind, big hp means higher RPMs and higher rpms means higher quality parts and higher quality parts mean higher build costs. High rpm motors don't belong on the street. Build or have built something that puts out 500-600 tq at low rpms (where a street motor lives at) and you will be very satisfied. BTW, the more hp the more quality and strength needed in the rest of the drivetrain.

Much appreciated, nice to hear the positive review for CME, sounds like my initial thinking for the build might be in the right track.
 
IQ52 just finished mine for me and I was tickled. We got 590hp & 575 tq from a +.030 440, could have maybe been more but I went the 6 bbl route.
I'm not sure of the limit of your 4 speed but I would think it would be ok with 500-550 if it's in good shape.
I think you would be happy with a 500-550 hp set up that would run on 89 octane gas. This would put you in the high 11's, low 12's depending on your chassis. And that my friend is a quick street car.

Sweet, I read your build thread last night and considered going the 6 pack route myself but I would need to lower my hp/tq expectations to fit that into my budget.
 
I understand. I wanted the 6 pack to try and hit my MPG goal when cruising. 500HP with a hyd cam 440 is pretty easy these days.
 
1. What is the break point on HP/torque in a B-body that really is getting into the real of unsafe/unstreetable? Entirely up to the driver. I have driven up to 625 n/a or so on the street, And some boosted that went closer to 900. Comfort lays with the drive and the specific car in question. My own opinion, unless you have some really serious suspension and wheels/tires, anything over 550 is wasted cash. Because the car won't be able to handle accelerating with it, or turning with it. Nevermind stopping. Plus the costs go up as a function of output. It costs a lot more to build 600hp reliably in your chassis than is does 500. Anyone who says otherwise probably has a "600hp dyno'd" engine that's not even close to 500hp in their car.
2. What kind of HP/Torque will my set-up theoretically handle? All depends. With an A833, the right clutch, gearing to match the driving habits, and the dana - you can probably do 5-600 without hurting anything. Eventually you'll break the driveline.
3. Similar question around durability... will my RR hold up to 600/600 HP/tq? If not, what do you think may need to be upgraded to handle it? The unibody will need to be reinforced with welded in frame connectors. Beyond that - you can add strength to the nose and firewall with some store-bought parts easy enough. But at that point if the car is honestly solid and done right you won't break anything body-wise.
4. What will my A-833 handle? If you power shift it, it will break down faster. If you put huge tires and a good suspension under it, it will break it. If you drive it normally, and have the right clutch and driveshaft angles, it will last just fine at 600hp.
 

Thanks, much appreciated.. One of the builders I'm speaking to had a 550hp/590tq combo which is what I'm leaning towards at the moment..
 
I think that will make you very happy! More torque is always better with a stick car.
 
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