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How much is too much???

63 Imperial

Member
Local time
11:17 PM
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Seattle, WA
Well before you say too much is never a consideration I'm doing a "Mild Custom" 63 Imperial and I want to punch out the 413 .60 over and create a real stump puller at the green light... Oh did I say it was a 4 door too? Yes I'm daring to wear my mopar freak flag all up and down the freeway... If I get all crazy with that am I gonna break the push button transmission controls? Or are they gonna become a liability and not shift something at the proper time and leave me with a jumble of parts and pieces in the bell housing? Can a few folks weigh in on that and let me know what I'm facing??? Serious concerns and toodles...
 
Don't forget Max Wedge cars had push buttons in them. Build it right, and it will be hard to break.

You might create some cooling problems punching the 413 out a bunch....unless it's one of those really cool industrial blocks that can be taken out to that of a 440.
 
Don't forget Max Wedge cars had push buttons in them. Build it right, and it will be hard to break.

You might create some cooling problems punching the 413 out a bunch....unless it's one of those really cool industrial blocks that can be taken out to that of a 440.
 
Yes sireee the mild custom happens to be in posession of a 413 Industrial Block that is to be built and stuck inside it's mini beak... Breaking headlines I found a cherry 2 door body I must have instead of a four door mild custom it might become a two door instead... I guess there will be no space for the waterbed and shag carpet now.
 
Perfect cruiser! You want a stump puller, get a tractor! Crizila frt qtr view.jpg
 
I run 9.0 with push buttons.
Doug
 
Crizila,
Nice car!

Lets let 63 Imperial build it the way he wants to.

Stump pullers create Torque, great reliable engines.
Good for cruising.
 
Push button in the '64'. Don't race like Doug, but still love the look and feel of the push button. Rev limiter a must if you don't trust yourself...
 
First of all you need to decide whether you're going to use a "Locked out" valve body or do a heavy duty rebuilt on the stock trans. To review 'locked Out", first gear is in first without engine braking. Second and third are in second and third with engine braking. When you are in second you are in second and when in third or drive you are in drive, no up or down. I tell people my Max is the easiest car to race. Bring it up against the brake in first, the lights come down, let off the brake, watch the tach, 6 grand, for my car anyway, punch second, watch the tach, punch drive and you're done the rest is just hanging on! None of this nonsense with levers and stuff looking for second or drive or neutral or, (barf), reverse. When you drive a car with buttons you know where the buttons are unless you're going between a Cast Iron and an Aluminum TF. Then drive and reverse are opposite.
 
Good luck with your build. Sounds like it's going to be a serious machine. Would love to see you pull some stumps with it.......
 
Given the original post is from 2009, I wonder how he made out.
I'm about to send an industrial 413 off to the shop to be tanked and checked. My db gauge tells me it's barely worn but maybe the shop will tell me different. I should know how far it can be bored later this month...
 
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