How risky is removing and reinstalling a cam bearing if oil hole isn’t aligned?

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I know it’s not the best practice…but let’s say I misaligned the oil hole on a cam bearing. How risky is pressing it back out and reinstalling it in the same bore?

Possible that it’s fine, or high risk for a spun bearing? It seemed to fit tight, just not as tight as the first install.

This is for a lower buck cheap refresh I’m working on. Obviously I get that the “right thing” to do is remove and install a brand new one.

 

[pnora]

I know it’s not the best practice…but let’s say I misaligned the oil hole on a cam bearing. How risky is pressing it back out and reinstalling it in the same bore?

Possible that it’s fine, or high risk for a spun bearing? It seemed to fit tight, just not as tight as the first install.

This is for a lower buck cheap refresh I’m working on. Obviously I get that the “right thing” to do is remove and install a brand new one.

I think you answered your own question.

 

[69Bee]

If you want to run the risk of trashing the block, then knock yourself out and re-install the bearing. I would get another set and install a new bearing myself!

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I think you answered your own question.

I have heard you can do it, assuming it’s not damaged and placed in the same bore. But I also understand that if it loses material on the back it has the potential to be looser. I just hate to have to buy a whole new set because one was tapped in a slight bit too far and had to come out.


I was just curious how risky it really is, if anyone has any experience there.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

If you want to run the risk of trashing the block, then knock yourself out and re-install the bearing. I would get another set and install a new bearing myself!

I should clarify and state this is a super low buck junkyard LS pulled for another project. Not my nice 512.

 

[pnora]

If you want to run the risk of trashing the block, then knock yourself out and re-install the bearing. I would get another set and install a new bearing myself!

I have heard you can do it, assuming it’s not damaged and placed in the same bore. But I also understand that if it loses material on the back it has the potential to be looser. I just hate to have to buy a whole new set because one was tapped in a slight bit too far and had to come out.


I was just curious how risky it really is, if anyone has any experience there.

I have and I bit the bullet and bought another set. The risk is not worth it no matter what the build.

 

[69Bee]

There is nothing "Cheap" dealing with a LS engine; it is not a 350 GM. If you have to go back in, the heads need to come off to remove the cam & lifters, so there's about $200 for gaskets and new head bolts. Then, you need a new balancer bolt (240 ft/lbs) not to mention getting the balancer off as it needs a special puller. You should also be replacing the cam thrust plate and tapered bolts. If you don't replace the thrust plate, you will regret it. Pioneer makes an inexpensive kit with the plate, bolts and the "Butt Plug" (oil valve in the rear of the block). You can do what you want to, but there are some things that need to be done if you want it to live.

 

[rickseeman]

First of all how "not lined up" is it? How much oil do you think 1 cam bearing needs? Unless you totally missed the hole I'll take a guess and say the size of the hole that is lined up would flow way more than 10 times what that cam bearing can use. You are doing a cheap build. So if you feel it's necessary, you can knock it out, and if it isn't tight going back in, I think you can buy just one bearing. I know people that would just use one they found in the trash from the last rebuild. And their car would run fine.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

There is nothing "Cheap" dealing with a LS engine; it is not a 350 GM. If you have to go back in, the heads need to come off to remove the cam & lifters, so there's about $200 for gaskets and new head bolts. Then, you need a new balancer bolt (240 ft/lbs) not to mention getting the balancer off as it needs a special puller. You should also be replacing the cam thrust plate and tapered bolts. If you don't replace the thrust plate, you will regret it. Pioneer makes an inexpensive kit with the plate, bolts and the "Butt Plug" (oil valve in the rear of the block). You can do what you want to, but there are some things that need to be done if you want it to live.

I mean you can build a ls cheap in comparison to something like a nicely built big block mopar.

Yeah I hear you. If the cam bearing goes, it’ll probably result in needing all new bearings and a crank polish as well. In addition to gaskets.

I have all the odds and ends covered. It’s got some money in it, but not anywhere close to what my 400/512 has cost.

 

[HawkRod]

Cam bearings don't have much load on them - they are rarely an issue in an engine (as opposed to cam lobes).

Reinstall it and use it!

 

[R413]

Why not just enlarge the hole in the bearing so it lines up with the block hole?

 

[69Bee]

Why not just enlarge the hole in the bearing so it lines up with the block hole?

The oil hole is drilled diagonally breaking into the cam bearing bore and then into the oil galley. An LS engine cam bearing slot is about an inch long, how can you miss that??

 

[bandit67]

I put my cam bearings in myself on all my engine rebuilds, but not done an LS. I have knocked them in and if not to my preference, back out and in again. Ive only had one that I damaged beyond use, and that was my fault.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

The oil hole is drilled diagonally breaking into the cam bearing bore and then into the oil galley. An LS engine cam bearing slot is about an inch long, how can you miss that??

I guess I’m just a perfectionist and wanted it lined up perfect. I was tapping it in and knocked it a touch past being centered. After reading, I guess it doesn’t need the entire oil hole opening to work and likely would have been fine.

I really didn’t want to open anything up and have to deal with metal shavings in a clean motor.

 

[69Bee]

In the future, if you accidentally go past, just go back in from the other direction and tap it back without removing it. As long as the bearing hole is on the slot, it is fine. I too am a perfectionist, and want the holes to line up perfectly... Just for your fyi, bearings #4 goes in first from the rear, followed by #5 from the rear. Then #3, #2, and #1 from the front. Pay attention to the chamfers as they show which direction to install it. I also just tap to start #1 and #5, then use an aluminum bearing race installer to knock it flush, then finish with the cam bearing tool. The reason I do this is that the tool is not being centered by the cone and can cock in the bore and damage it.

 

[4mulas]

How much does a cam bearing cost and what is your time worth if you have to tear down an installed motor if something did happen?

 

[Bobzilla]

I know it’s not the best practice…but let’s say I misaligned the oil hole on a cam bearing. How risky is pressing it back out and reinstalling it in the same bore?

Possible that it’s fine, or high risk for a spun bearing? It seemed to fit tight, just not as tight as the first install.

This is for a lower buck cheap refresh I’m working on. Obviously I get that the “right thing” to do is remove and install a brand new one.

I should clarify and state this is a super low buck junkyard LS pulled for another project. Not my nice 512.

Brand Racing Engines has a good video on pinning the cam bearings in an LS platform engine. I am not familiar but supposedly the cam bearings are already prone to movement in those. Maybe be safe and replace it or at least try pinning it like this.