Yep, see what you mean, on the tabs. Thanks for the pics!
I really don't recall them on mine, but doesn't mean much. Just like in dadsbee photo, those cancelling cams can be gotten as a replacement, usually because the 'fingers' break.
Your cancelling cam, including the fingers, look to be in good shape. In a heartbeat, try to find some tool, to start to lift the tabs. The metal the post is made of is fairly soft. If I had to do mine, once slightly lifted, use a spare screw/bolt right fit for the hole in the post. I'd use a very small pair of channel locks, one side against the bolt, opposite at the tab, to finish bending them up.
Just like dadsbee mentioned, those tabs don't have to be there, for it all to work. Snug fit, and the mounting screw/bolt will hold it all together. (Switch maker probably figured it was only needed to work, for 5-6 years! One time deal.)
Just go easy with it, and it's workable. Had to...did mine! Yeah, looks a little 50ish in there.
If you don't want to go that far...hit it with carb cleaner, where the wiring contacts are. Soak the switch itself, in a container of lemon juice, to clean any corrosion. Then, force feed dielectric grease in there, work the switch back and forth, and see if your getting any contact.