I’m frustrated so I’m cutting this wire!

[Mopar Hunter]

 

[Tony 69]

Back at it again today and compiled some information.

Key off:
12.7 battery
12.7 at starter solenoid
12.7 out of bulkhead connector
12.7 at alternator
and 0 at voltage regulator

This should confirm connections and fusible link

Key on engine off:
12.5 battery
12.5 starter solenoid
11 out of bulkhead connector
11 at alt
and 10.4 at voltage regulator

so the voltage drop is inside, the ammeter works (?) because it bounces around
I'm leaning toward an ignition switch because of the 11 volts at bulkhead connector but 10.4 at voltage reg
Also, I see a splice in the wiring diagram which to me looks like the vehicle should charge regardless of the ammeter

 

[pnora]

Back at it again today and compiled some information.

Key off:
12.7 battery
12.7 at starter solenoid
12.7 out of bulkhead connector
12.7 at alternator
and 0 at voltage regulator

This should confirm connections and fusible link

Key on engine off:
12.5 battery
12.5 starter solenoid
11 out of bulkhead connector
11 at alt
and 10.4 at voltage regulator

so the voltage drop is inside, the ammeter works (?) because it bounces around
I'm leaning toward an ignition switch because of the 11 volts at bulkhead connector but 10.4 at voltage reg
Also, I see a splice in the wiring diagram which to me looks like the vehicle should charge regardless of the ammeter

The ammeter needs to be 100 percent. Everything passes through it and without it no charge. Run a temporary jumper from the battery to the regulator and see what happens. Or use the wiper wiring.

 

[Tony 69]

Being that the ammeter jumps around I would think it works
Is there a way to test it

 

[Tony 69]

Can you explain in a little more detail
Run a jumper to the ign side of regulator or to the field side?

 

[pnora]

Can you explain in a little more detail
Run a jumper to the ign side of regulator or to the field side?

You sure as hell do not want it on the regulation side. Running the temporary by pass to the ignition side [blue wire] of the regulator will by-pass the ignition switch and associated wiring. If it charges ok then you know the rest of the system works. Just try it and see what happens.

 

[pnora]

Being that the ammeter jumps around I would think it works
Is there a way to test it

Let it run for a while with the lights on. Reach up and touch the studs on the ammeter. If they are hot there is a problem.

 

[Tony 69]

Ok
That’s what I thought
I didn’t know if you were thinking to full field the alternator

 

[pnora]

Ok
That’s what I thought
I didn’t know if you were thinking to full field the alternator

You do not full field this set up by running 12 volts.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

The voltage drop measurements require some current flowing to be of any use. The ignition switch, and all other vehicle loads, is fed from the alternator side of the ammeter at splice 1. The readings indicate the issue is between splice 1 and the battery. Both ammeter terminals are on that path, the ammeter needs to be checked for loose connections. Just because the ammeter moves, doesn’t mean the connections are good.

 

[Tony 69]

Any idea where splice 1 is or just tear out the cluster and find it?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Tapped up in the dash harness, don't really need to get to it to diagnose. Can take measurements at other points connected to the splice 1, at the fuse box, ignition switch, 12 ga. black charge wire at inside, dash side, of the bulkhead connector.

 

[Tony 69]

UPDATE!
So the issue turned out to be loose connections at the ammeter. The black and red wires were both loose enough to slide the terminal end side to side. The nut on the red wire would not come off because the stud it was screwed onto wanted to turn because it was not tightly holding the ammeter to the cluster. Got all that taken care of and went back with lock washers. Now the charge at idle is 14.1. The regulator isn’t smoking anymore but I’m going to replace it anyway. Thanks for all the input and advise from everyone.

 

[LowBikeMike]

You're probably okay for now, but at the first available time I would pull the cluster and further inspect the Ammeter (if you didn't already). The screws are indexed in the ammeter so them spinning (common problem) loosens their internal connection a bit. Most likely the cluster insulator is also burnt, brittle, and maybe partially missing.

 

[Tony 69]

UNSOLVED!
Here I go again unfortunately. So that smoking regulator, replaced it and smoked another one. I noticed the volts are jumping from 16 to 2 and everywhere in between. I assume the 16 volts is taking out the regulator. Bad alternator? I’m stuck on this one.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Why are you replacing good parts? If something works leave it alone.

 

[Canadian1968]

Why are you replacing good parts? If something works leave it alone.

A smoking regulator is not a good part.

AS mentioned before , you probably need to pull the dash and have a look at the ammeter closer. You may have fixed the connections but I'm thinking they burnt up part of the gauge before you noticed it.

 

[Tony 69]

Ok I will do that. My thought process was the ammeter would not go to 16 volts if it was bad but rather reduce the voltage all the time. And a bench test on the alternator only shows a pass or fail. I didn’t know if an alternator can over charge by itself. Can I tie the ammeter connections together for a test (and leave it like that if it works till I get the gauge fixed)

 

[LowBikeMike]

You can tie the ammeter wires together or put both wires on one stud for testing, but the connectors and wire ends are likely heat damaged if they were loose.

 

[QuebecRollin]

I would get rid or the amp meter or convert it to voltage once you get to taking it apart.
You can also bypass the critical connections at the bulkhead fitting if needed.