I’m frustrated so I’m cutting this wire!

[Tony 69]

I've decided to do the by pass for now. 10g wire from alt to starter relay. Connect the ammeter wires together. What size (amp) fusible link?

 

[Tony 69]

To continue the story….
I made the wire from alt to relay. Decided to go with 12g instead of 10 because the circuit is shared. Also the fusible link I found was 12g. Then I found the alternator stud loose while putting it on!!! I’m glad I have found other problems along the way but this loose stud has me wondering if that was a lot of the issues all along. Tomorrow if will hook the ammeter wires together before smoking another voltage regulator. Hope it all works and I’ll let you guys know.

 

[moes]

Tony 69. You should use a fusible link that it 4 time smaller than your AWG wire size. Us an AWG 16 fusible link to protect AWG 12 wire. You want the fusible link to blow first, so you don't fry your wire and anything else.

 

[Carcinogen]

I was having charging problems, chased it down to corrosion, near terminals and even inside wire under insulator. Ended up running all new wire on alternator to battery using a relay to get full battery voltage and new wire from regulator to alternator. Also bypassed ammeter and used solid wire through bulkhead removing connectors.

 

[Tony 69]

Getting closer but no cigar
Here is some current info
KOEO
Battery. 12.6
Starter relay 12.6
Alt stud 12.6
Sense side of regulator 11.1
Ran a new wire still 11.1
Ign side of regulator 11.7
But if I unplug the ballast 12.1

All grounds are good
Negative battery to regulator case 0

Now charging 13.8 and randomly dropping out to 2.5 to 5 but mostly staying at 13.8
No change with loads on

Question is what is the ballast making a difference and why 11.1 on sense side of regulator (even with a jumper wire installed and factory wiring disconnected)

 

[Tony 69]

Forgot to mention I did complete the ammeter bypass
I ran 12g from alt to starter relay and tied the 2 ammeter wires together on the same post

 

[pnora]

x

 

[Tony 69]

Pnora
No I did not because I don’t know what that will prove
I like to see what the voltage is supposed to be at different locations
Like I said the alternator is charging now but randomly dropping out (a lot less than it used to) so I’m finding little problems along the way
I suppose that if I ran the wire like you said then the result would mean “it’s in the harness” I’m trying to find out where

 

[pnora]

Pnora
No I did not because I don’t know what that will prove
I like to see what the voltage is supposed to be at different locations
Like I said the alternator is charging now but randomly dropping out (a lot less than it used to) so I’m finding little problems along the way
I suppose that if I ran the wire like you said then the result would mean “it’s in the harness” I’m trying to find out wherx

 

[LowBikeMike]

You are seeing 11 volts on ignition side with ballast connected because with KOEO, power is still running through the ballast to your coil or electronic ignition and you are seeing a small voltage drop Disconnecting wire at ballast (which is tied into ign wire at regulator) opens the circuit so no current is flowing and you are reading available voltage.

 

[Tony 69]

I understand. My concern is did a voltage drop fry 2 regulators? I just don’t understand how. And I will do the test. Jumper battery to ign (or sense) side of regulator?

 

[Tony 69]

So
The 11 volts with ballast connect d is correct?

 

[Tony 69]

Pnora
Please do reserve your opinion and suggestions. You are condisinding to be on a forum that’s supposed to help people. Too elite for me.
For everyone else I appreciate the help. So lowbikemike said 11 volts is because the ballast is connected. When it’s disconnected the voltage is 12.6. So is that correct? Or do I need to be checking with engine running?
A post somewhere else said I should have batter voltage at sense side of regulator with key on engine off and off and I do not. That is what I’m focusing on right now pnora

 

[Tony 69]

So the question is
Will the voltage reg work without battery voltage on the ign side ( since I have 11) and if not then how do I run a car without a ballast

 

[Tony 69]

And by the way pnora test yielded 13.3
Hooked my stuff back up and got 13.8
So that test is invalid. I’m thinking ballast delet (?) just to test

 

[Tony 69]

So pnora is editing and deleting his posts
Whatever I think a different approach will work
Instead of saying what voltage I have what voltage should it be? For instance, battery voltage at ign reg but only 11 because of ballast (?) my car has electronic ignition. I cannot diagnose electrical without info! So, is it acceptable to have a voltage drop due to the ballast? What do y’all have? 69 RR 440

 

[LowBikeMike]

I cant tell you what voltage you will have at that the ign terminal, but you will have a voltage drop because with ign on it is a live circuit with a path to ground via the coil or electric ignition. So any resistance value will show a drop. Sorry, my 69 has a unilite system and internal voltage regulator in alt. Disconnect elect ignition or coil and you'd have 12 volts key on.

 

[Tony 69]

Thanks lowbikemike
But my car runs
If idisconnect the coil or ecu who knows?
It has to be hooked up to run. Interesting tho, some coils are internally ballast and some not. I’m thinking ditch the ballast