I need picture of flared rear wheel opening

[Mike Gaines]

I have seen a couple of B-Bodies with enlarged and "flaired" rear wheel openings that looked really nice (rather than just cutting a big ARC into the rear Quarter Panel for outer tire clearance on the outside.
Anyone got pictures of what I am talking about so I can show my paint and body guy ?


I am showing a picture of the new DEMON to kinda show what I am talking about.

 

[glassman]

Why don't you gently push the 1/4 panel out with a hydraulic jack and a two by four to get those 14x32's on.

 

[malex]

Why don't you gently push the 1/4 panel out with a hydraulic jack and a two by four to get those 14x32's on.

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There's this,

Or there's this way like I did to my Dart project.

 

[Mike Gaines]

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There's this,
View attachment 692423

Or there's this way like I did to my Dart project.

View attachment 692426

I like the dart template

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Glassman & Malex have good idea. I don't believe that any of the old Mopars had "factory" wheel opening flairs. The '68 Hemi Dart/Cuda were just cut out quarters like Malex's picture. I rolled the quarter panel lips on my car for tire clearance.

I know you race, so maybe you could just narrow a rear end & move the springs inboard. Then, pick your wheels & see how much additional clearance you need from the quarter panels. If you need fender flairs, I think you'll have to fabricate them unless you can find some kind of "kit" from the 70's ???

 

[malex]

Glassman & Malex have good idea. I don't believe that any of the old Mopars had "factory" wheel opening flairs. The '68 Hemi Dart/Cuda were just cut out quarters like Malex's picture. I rolled the quarter panel lips on my car for tire clearance.

I know you race, so maybe you could just narrow a rear end & move the springs inboard. Then, pick your wheels & see how much additional clearance you need from the quarter panels. If you need fender flairs, I think you'll have to fabricate them unless you can find some kind of "kit" from the 70's ???

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Mike's car is good to run 10.0. He's currently running 10.15. Some better shocks all the way around and some experimenting and he will find that .15 without any mods.
As far as putting a 2X4 in there and jacking it out, disasterous, if there is any body filler in that area, it will crack and look like ****.
Mike could put some Hoosier 29X12's under there, they have about the same sidewall as what his tires are now but with a full 12" of rubber on the ground. That extra inch of rubber on the ground looks noticably wider too.

 

[dvw]

New shocks are cheaper than body work. Doug

 

[Mike Gaines]

New shocks are cheaper than body work. Doug

All of my dear friends are going to convince me to spend the money for double adjustable shocks....
OK Guys....what brand should I buy ? and what spring rates, etc.
Thanks

 

[1967coronet440]

All of my dear friends are going to convince me to spend the money for double adjustable shocks....
OK Guys....what brand should I buy ? and what spring rates, etc.
Thanks

Viking gets my vote, but call their tech line ant tell them the intended use of the car, they’ll want to know ride height, what kind of mounts, 4 link or ladder bar etc. it’s critical they get the valving correct for you so you’re not in the same position you are now needing more adjustment.

 

[malex]

Viking gets my vote, but call their tech line ant tell them the intended use of the car, they’ll want to know ride height, what kind of mounts, 4 link or ladder bar etc. it’s critical they get the valving correct for you so you’re not in the same position you are now needing more adjustment.

View attachment 692685

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Agreed. Mike has yet to try his car with his rear shock rebound cranked right up. He should give it a try, he might find that his combo will work with his Calvert shocks on full tight. Zero $$ needed. Would be nice if he could put some front rebound into it too.

 

[Mike Gaines]

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Agreed. Mike has yet to try his car with his rear shock rebound cranked right up. He should give it a try, he might find that his combo will work with his Calvert shocks on full tight. Zero $$ needed. Would be nice if he could put some front rebound into it too.

As I have shared with you guys I have Calvert 90/10 fronts now. I have let my torsion bars "sag" so I have a full 5.5" of UPWARD FREE TRAVEL (like Calvert wants) and it works perfect with my OLD setup before I took the 120lbs out of the rear.
I do have a regular pair of shocks (street type) that I took off the car).
Are you suggesting that I put my torsion bars back up (then I would have about 3" of UPWARD FREE TRAVEL) and put on those stock shocks ? I agree they would have "rebound" which my 90/10's have virtually none....
Let me know. Thanks

 

[dvw]

Don't spend until you tighten what you have. They may work.
Doug

 

[Mike Gaines]

Don't spend until you tighten what you have. They may work.
Doug

I am going to get tight...lol..thanks

 

[Endangered Species]

Mike, Please don't cut that car up. It's too damn nice of a car. No one cut's wheel openings anymore.... That's car abuse.

Have you had the car mini Tubbed?

If you're going to buy new shocks, Vikings are a great product for the money.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Mike, Please don't cut that car up. It's too damn nice of a car. No one cut's wheel openings anymore.... That's car abuse.

Have you had the car mini Tubbed?

If you're going to buy new shocks, Vikings are a great product for the money.

Yes, the car is mini tubbed....I have now decided with the help of Mike ( Malex and Mike's input from DVW and SuperStockRacer ) that what I do will be ladder bar setup with Strange Double Adjustable Coil Overs.

 

[67MPRFAN]

What size tires are you going to put underneath it

 

[Mike Gaines]

What size tires are you going to put underneath it

I have 15x10 Weld wheels with 29x11.2 Hoosiers on it now. (with 13.2" section width)
The biggest tire I can fit into my wheel wells is the Hoosier 29x12 (with 13.6 section width)
PLUS I have ruled out flairing (cutting out) my outer wheel wells.
From all the input I have received it looks like Ladder Bars and Double Adjustable shocks are the way to go. (without a frame kit to "backhalf" and narrow my frame to install wider wheels and bigger tires).
I would still be limited to the 29x12 Hoosiers with the Ladder Bar setup

 

[Endangered Species]

Good deal, glad to hear it.

Yep... ladder bars are the ticket. SSR talked me into making the change 4 years ago. Had Bob George install them and never looked back.

You'll be happy you did.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Good deal, glad to hear it.

Yep... ladder bars are the ticket. SSR talked me into making the change 4 years ago. Had Bob George install them and never looked back.

You'll be happy you did.

What rear end setup did you have BEFORE you installed the ladder bars and:
1) how much did they improve your ET and 60" ?
20 How much did they improve your reaction time ?
Thanks, mike

 

[67MPRFAN]

I have 15x10 Weld wheels with 29x11.2 Hoosiers on it now. (with 13.2" section width)
The biggest tire I can fit into my wheel wells is the Hoosier 29x12 (with 13.6 section width)
PLUS I have ruled out flairing (cutting out) my outer wheel wells.
From all the input I have received it looks like Ladder Bars and Double Adjustable shocks are the way to go. (without a frame kit to "backhalf" and narrow my frame to install wider wheels and bigger tires).
I would still be limited to the 29x12 Hoosiers with the Ladder Bar setup[/QUOTE

Just throwing it out there but on my 67 Plymouth B body I have the same setup as you but with a narrow D60 from Moser and I can get a 12in wheel on it with a 29/10.5w tire that measure 14 across ..s s maybe a narrower rear and better shocks might be another route you can explore