Ignition issues

[Dirte70]

I have this 1970 satellite that I do not know much about the history of, but will list what I know.
- has a 383 in it (not original)
-auto trans (don't know exactly which one)
-ODO reads 6k miles
-Im assuming the restoration was done within the last 10 years
-everything appears to work other than the turn signal indicators on the hood

When I picked it up last year it had been sitting in storage for a solid 3 years, probably rarely driven before that. That being said it ran like a top right off the bat, fired right up, idled smooth, would run all out no issues.
I try to drive it when the weather is good and over the last couple months or so it has gotten progressively harder to start to the point of not firing at all, and it will misfire completely randomly. Usually takes a jumper box to get it fired but once its running goes right to idle and sometimes it may run great for an hour, sometimes it'll misfire/ backfire as soon as its put in gear. The only thing it consistently does is it WILL NOT restart without a jumper box hooked up.
Ill be the first to admit Im not to familiar with carbureted engines in general and this is this first Mopar I've ever owned or worked on.

At first I thought it was a carb issues, It had a 770 Holley street avenger and the power valve was leaking. Replaced the power valve and re adjusted it and it definitely fixed the fuel leak but didn't change much in terms of it backfiring and missing.
Next I put a Edelbrock 650 on it. I feel that helped it run better because it wasn't running near as rich but still didn't fix the backfiring/ starting.
Then I thought maybe timing chain was slacked off so I went to put a double roller in it and realized it already had one in it with hardly any play once I pulled the cover off.
So now other than those "major" part replacements I have done the following.
- new plugs
-wires look to be just fine (no burn marks or anything)
-new coil (universal Accel unit)
-new ignition control (Napa replacement)
-timing is adjusted back to just a hair off of the hole in the timing mark
-new ballast resistor
-new battery as well (tried 3 different ones)
-alternator is charging as well

I believe the issue is something electrical because it will always start with a jumper box hooked up but that doesn't fix the running issue.
Another thing I want to mention is that without the jumper box hooked up sometimes when you turn the key to start it it won't turn over or click or anything like there's a voltage problem but when the box is hooked up it never does that.
Last thing, we also ran a jumper wire to the positive side of the coil last weekend and it literally fired right up (3 times in a row) but that was it, back to normal starting and running issues after that.
Any help or ideas on areas to check would be greatly appreciated. Heres a picture of it
.

 

[pnora]

Sounds like its not charging What are the battery voltages just sitting engine off and when the engine is running?

 

[bearman]

When you try to restart it you need to have a test light hooked up to starter solenoid to see if àny power is there. After that I would look at power at coil to make sure it stays loaded with power. Also look at grounds to make sure one is not loose. Just a thought also handle one issue at a time easier to figure out the true problem.

 

[pnora]

Having to use a jump box tells me its either a low battery or a battery to body/engine connection

 

[bearman]

He says he can start it but then has to use jumper box. I agree with body to engine connections. That's why I asked about solenoid wire coming alive when he turns the key to start position.

 

[Geoff 2]

[1] Has it been converted to Elec ign?
[2] The coil [ Accel ] needs the correct resistance bal res to work with that coil. It may be a different value to the 0.5 ohms that Chry coils use.
[3] Make sure the ECU is properly grounded.
[4] Misfiring. Could be a few things. Check the dist cap & rotor for carbon tracking/arcing.
[5] The jumper box sounds like it is correcting a low voltage situation. Check battery cables/connections etc.
[6] Keep the Holley for a boat anchor...

 

[RemCharger]

[6] Keep the Holley for a boat anchor...

 

[dvw]

Have you had the battery tested? Why does it need a jump box every time? If it's good, then the first thing I would look for is poor connections. The ground cable, positive battery cable, the firewall bulkhead connector. Also remove the dist cap and check the gap at the pick-up coil to reluctor. It should be .008". An ohm meter isn't going to work for testing wiring. You need to load the circuit. Use a headlight bulb with jumpers attached. One jumper to one end of the wire being tested. The other end to positive battery. Then ground the other end of the wire being tested. The bulb should light brightly. On power circuits hook one end of the bub to the circuit in quwstion. Ground the other end of the bulb jumper. Then key it up and see if the bulb lights. The amperage drawn through the bulb will load the circuit. If the circuit is suspect the bulb will be dim or not light at all.
Doug

 

[Dirte70]

Thanks for the replies guys, I will check the battery to body and engine to body connections and report back. It has been converted to electronic ignition but I will need to check to make sure the coil is the right resistance. As far as charging amps I will check that with a multimeter as well. All 3 batteries have been at mid 12 volts when not running.

 

[dvw]

Thanks for the replies guys, I will check the battery to body and engine to body connections and report back. It has been converted to electronic ignition but I will need to check to make sure the coil is the right resistance. As far as charging amps I will check that with a multimeter as well. All 3 batteries have been at mid 12 volts when not running.

Make sure the ignition box is being fed 12 volts. The feed needs to come from the side of the ballast resistor with the single blue wire (R wire in diagram). Not the side that has the blue and brown wire (brown S wire in diagram). Easy check. Disconnect the ballast resistor. Turn the key to the run position. There should be power at the box blue/yellow wire with the ballast disconnected. If not it's wired wrong.
Doug