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ignition timing / starter

Ralph Cali

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Trying to figure out what up with my engine 522 stroker

It kicks back at startup indicating too much advance and smells of fuel.

The engine builder stated in writing 14 degrees at 700 RPM, 24 degrees at 3000 RPM and 28 degree total

I assume that means total of 28 degrees all in ( not 28 + 14 = 42 ???? ). Setting timing at 14 degrees at 700 rpm and revving the motor to about 3000 rpm + - the advance was around 36 degrees.


I am thinking that the springs in my mallory unilite are to weak allowing too much advance or the stop is incorrect.

Any advice would be helpful
 
Pull the vacuum hose off? My stroker won't run worth a hoot with a vacuum advance. My initial and total are pretty close to what your engine builder states. Real slow advance seems to work for my 496.
 
Thanks will look into a slower advance with different springs and stop for the total.

No vacuum hose its a mechanical advance unit only

ralph
 
Interesting, I have crank gear at 4° advance and the timing at 12 initial and 35 total and have some hard starting issues. Was thinking of dropping down to 10 initial see what happens, any opinions? Same mech adv
 
28 deg seems a little low for a total advance on a big bore engine like a 440 (I'm thinking you are based off a 440). The total advance you were given has to account for the initial but the vac advance should be disconnected. So 14 deg I plus what's in the distributor will get you to 28 or 36 or ? If you were told 28 then make it 28 by reducing the amount of travel of the dist cam.
 
If you'll contact www.4secondsflat.com , they have a plate and spring setup available a a decent price that should take care of the issue without having to weld up your distributor slots. Works absolutely great for my 440 based stroker.
 
boy, does this hit home!....I have had the same crap
.....this thread helps!,
sonny
 
Thanks will look into a slower advance with different springs and stop for the total.

No vacuum hose its a mechanical advance unit only

ralph

What is your cam duration at .050" lift? That is what will determine your initial spark advance. I suspect that 14 degrees is not near enough.

A 522ci engine with a cam that is 240 or less at .050" could like as much as 20 degrees initial, that's at idle. More duration, more initial advance. If you're running 14 degrees and it is backing up and spitting back through the carburetor as you start it, it is retarded, way retarded, 4-6 degrees or more retarded.
 
Last edited:
Hold on, Hold on.....
If it's anything like my Mallory Unilite W/O vac advance, no welding needed, or special kits... Bla Bla Bla.
My Mallory unilite has adjustments already in it for limiting tottal advance. You use the stepped guage with tottal advance markings on it. You simply loosen some screws and slide the slot open or closed to the step in the guage at the mechanical advance you desire.
If you wish to change the "curve" you can swap springs, but mine came out just fine out of the box. I think you'll need a lot of seat time at the strip trying different spring rates, and a very consistant car to ever know if your making the right change. I think Dynos are the only controlled method of finding the best "curve" settings. Base timing and tottal advance however, can be performed by you in the driveway in an afternoon with your Mallory. If you dont have the stepped guage for this, just close down the opening in the measusing slot for less tottal adv, or open it up some for more adv. then re-check with it running on a timing light.
BTW, the Accel module available at Summit is exactly the same part at about half the price of Mallory.
 
Thanks to all.

I ordered the advance kit from jegs on the unilite and I researched it with Mallory. No welding required like he said it has a limit guage and stops for max advance.

Working on keeping the car a little cooler and installing a new flywheel and starter which may be some of my problem.

Anyway the advance will need some adjustment and will work it out.

Ralph
 
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