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I'm getting close to switching to a roller cam in the big block!

I won’t be tearing into this right away. I’m planning on a 900+ mile road trip in a few weeks and don’t want to risk getting elbow deep in this and unable to get it running in time.

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The billet core looks so much different than a cast cam core. The base circle of the roller cam seems smaller to the eye but the old cam to the left was that ‘528 I wiped out in 2022. None of the lobes share the same numbers! The base casting of the 528 cam is thicker by .060.

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This is exciting for me. FBBO member @HawkRod was my inspiration to use Comp Cams. Dwayne Porter listened and advised on the specs.

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I briefly looked at the instructions then tossed them into the trash can


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Who needs those?

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Kidding, of course.
The whole retro-roller cam swap is 100% new to me so I will not just wing it…
I’ll be asking for advice when needed and willing to see comments from others with experience in this stuff.

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Over $700 for a set of lifters and these are not even the most expensive ones! These have a good reputation and came recommended.

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Nice Kern, that's a tiny bit bigger than my 318 cam :)
 
That is a pretty cam... When i called howards they told me mine is billet...but it sure looks cast :)
 
It is interesting how the link bar attaches. The lifter to the right has a simple round hole where the link bar is connected.

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The lifter on the left …. The link bar has an oval slot to it to keep the lifters in line but allow vertical travel.

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Todays delivery also included spring shims….

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Sized at .015, .030 and .060, this will help me get to the correct installed spring height.
I’ve never checked that before. I get to learn a few new things here.
It will be at least a month before I jump in to do this. Feel free to pop in and comment, I’m sure not going to pretend that I have this all figured out on my own.
 
Greg....for the record, a spreadsheet is not a picnic blanket that you and a girl sit on after a light snack. :lol:
 



Trick Flow® Pro Calibrated Adjustable Pushrod Length Checkers TFS-9508​


Part Number: TFS-9508
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-9508 - Trick Flow® Pro Calibrated Adjustable Pushrod Length Checkers

Trick Flow Specialties TFS-9508 - Trick Flow® Pro Calibrated Adjustable Pushrod Length Checkers

Trick Flow Specialties TFS-9508 - Trick Flow® Pro Calibrated Adjustable Pushrod Length Checkers


$26.79



Trick Flow® Pro Calibrated Adjustable Pushrod Length Checkers
Adjustable Pushrod Length Checker, Cup Tip, 7.800 in. to 8.800 in., Steel Alloy, Black Oxide, Each
See More Specifications | Check the Fit
In Stock (more than 10 available)
Estimated Ship Date: Today
 
Good idea to know what size ends the checker needs to be. And for what pushrods to order
 
We’re going to need a cost round up when done.

When I do a major change and write about it, I am honest about what the costs are. I'll be sure to do that here as well.

Kern, did you get a new dist drive?

Yes I did.....I have one of those melonized units from Hughes Engines.

Spreadsheets....

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I've heard the "office type" people speak the term but I never paid much attention to the meaning of it.
I make lists with parts and prices....I'm not a complicated guy.
 
For one, they really are the 800 lb gorilla in the aftermarket cam business. Dwayne Porter works with them and I trust his advice.
Hawk Rod has a cam of similar spec in his Road Runner, he is quite happy with it and it makes great power.
I can't entirely blame Comp for the 2006 failures I had with the 2 Comp Cams that I lost that year. In retrospect, every cam manufacturer was seeing an uptick in failures, a large percentage of them due to the oil formulas changing for reduced emissions. I used regular oil with the Comp pour in supplement for break in. During break in, the car ran hot so I shut it down about 15 minutes in. After a cool down, the car wouldn't get any spark so I wound up cranking on it a bit until I swapped in another distributor to run it another 15 minutes. THAT may have increased the risk of early failure. I was advised back then that my existing springs would be fine.....maybe they were, maybe not?
Just know that I am doing this by the book. I'm following all guidelines and procedures. If these parts and products are of high quality, I'll be fine.
IF there is a failure, I will post about it and deal with the fallout.
 
When I do a major change and write about it, I am honest about what the costs are. I'll be sure to do that here as well.



Yes I did.....I have one of those melonized units from Hughes Engines.

Spreadsheets....

View attachment 1838244

I've heard the "office type" people speak the term but I never paid much attention to the meaning of it.
I make lists with parts and prices....I'm not a complicated guy.

I have a thick stack of receipts.... i don't add them up.. i have at least 10k into a car worth 10k... that i paid 10k for to start with....
 
I have a thick stack of receipts.... i don't add them up.. i have at least 10k into a car worth 10k... that i paid 10k for to start with....
Yeah, but you have a big, $hitty grin on your face when you drive it. Isn't that why we do this??? :thumbsup:
 
Kern,

A couple of random things I thought of when looking through your posts:
1) When you go to install your roller lifters, soak them in break in oil for 24 hours or more to really get that oil well into the rollers. The rollers MUST be lubes well prior to startup. When the lifters are done soaking, simply put the oil in the engine for use during startup.

2) Make sure your shims are hardened: the shim that touches your spring needs to be a hardened shim, otherwise it will likely distort and get beat up by the action of the spring. Your spring pressure shouldn't be high enough to do too much damage, but an ounce of prevention...
 
Yeah, but you have a big, $hitty grin on your face when you drive it. Isn't that why we do this??? :thumbsup:
yup.... wasn't using the money for anything anyway :) I did quick math on what my new bottom end is gonna cost last night.... i coulda used a stock 400 with good heads and made the same power and saved like 5k :)
 
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