I'm new! Seeking 318 power knowledge!

[Bb70charger500]

Very cool bud as most here already know I love the 71-74 charger s I own two 72's right now one 440 4 speed the other 340 4 speed and they call me crazy but I prefer the small block car all day long! As for glass parts the monsterus hood is aval the fenders used to be the bumpers are available I've never seen doors or a deck lid for this style charger contact stinger fiberglass out of fl. I'm not to far from him if you request the parts he will make the parts I have good orgs he can use to make glass parts off of ! We were actually speaking about bringing fiberglass trunk lids to market because we all know how difficult they are to get! If you need help from ke just p.m. me
Please add more pictures of your charger

 

[drobertson]

I'd be concerned about other things before dropping in a huge power plant... an 8 3/4 rear axle assembly should be plenty for most of us. Might consider some subframe connectors, too - Especially if you're planning a boosted and/or nitrous motor. I'm sure you don't want to twist up the unibody! 904's can be built to withstand plenty of power, but at the end of the day... a 727 can be built stronger. Driveshaft shortening shouldn't be a huge issue, I had one shortened for 70 bucks at a machine shop.

If I were building a small block... I'd start with a 360 block. Toss in a 4" stroker kit w/ 9:1 compression, edelbrock rpm heads, edelbrock rpm air-gap manifold, tti headers, comp cams hydraulic roller w/ factory stamped rockers. Not only would you have more power, but the aluminum components would shave quite a few lbs off the nose. Using some factory components will also save money.

 

[rumblefish360]

Okay, so I will have a hard time getting a low enough compression for forced induction. The chambers would need to be like 83cc to get me to 9.5 with the 416 kit. So I decided to go nitrous with a high compression motor.


https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crn-699691

I'm still trying to decide on the carb, but I'm pretty sure this will be my way to go

This cam with a 1.6 rocker on top of the Victor head.

WARNING, WARNING, WARNING!!!!

The link provided for the 400+ cube engine kit is for a larger bore than the 318 can give or go to.

You MUST read the bore size of the kits your looking at.

 

[rumblefish360]

I'd be concerned about other things before dropping in a huge power plant... an 8 3/4 rear axle assembly should be plenty for most of us. Might consider some subframe connectors, too - Especially if you're planning a boosted and/or nitrous motor. I'm sure you don't want to twist up the unibody! 904's can be built to withstand plenty of power, but at the end of the day... a 727 can be built stronger. Driveshaft shortening shouldn't be a huge issue, I had one shortened for 70 bucks at a machine shop.

I think he said Ford 9 and I mentioned a DANA. But I agree here.

If I were building a small block... I'd start with a 360 block. Toss in a 4" stroker kit w/ 9:1 compression, edelbrock rpm heads, edelbrock rpm air-gap manifold, tti headers, comp cams hydraulic roller w/ factory stamped rockers. Not only would you have more power, but the aluminum components would shave quite a few lbs off the nose. Using some factory components will also save money.

He is looking to do Victor heads and intake . They should make more power than the RPM line, no?

 

[451Mopar]

Wow that's not bad at all! What is it capable of though? Can it handle forced induction and/or nitrous? I'm sure it can I guess the real question is how much lol

The term grenade comes to mind. That engine would be fine with no power adders, but was not designed for use with them. The cast pistons and crank might tolerate a 150 shot, but you'd have to re-gap the piston rings.
From the power, parts and cost point of what your talking about, I'm not sure why you would want to use a 318 block unless you own a machine shop or plan to fund one?
There is a R3 block on racing junk for $1,700:
http://www.racingjunk.com/8-Cylinde...age=3&categoryId=5641&offset=21&from=category
Also 440" R block, W2 heads complete 700 HP, for $12,500
Or another R3 48 degree engine w2 heads, with extra block for $9,000:
http://www.racingjunk.com/8-Cylinde...age=6&categoryId=5641&offset=56&from=category

 

[rumblefish360]

The term grenade comes to mind. That engine would be fine with no power adders, but was not designed for use with them. The cast pistons and crank might tolerate a 150 shot, but you'd have to re-gap the piston rings.
From the power, parts and cost point of what your talking about, I'm not sure why you would want to use a 318 block unless you own a machine shop or plan to fund one?
There is a R3 block on racing junk for $1,700:
http://www.racingjunk.com/8-Cylinde...age=3&categoryId=5641&offset=21&from=category
Also 440" R block, W2 heads complete 700 HP, for $12,500
Or another R3 48 degree engine w2 heads, with extra block for $9,000:
http://www.racingjunk.com/8-Cylinde...age=6&categoryId=5641&offset=56&from=category

I think that is because a 9.2 deck height will need a 9.2 intake manifold. You can't cut a regular intake down that much.

The other engine may indeed be a steal @ $9K. But who has $9K laying around for a unknown engine but a unknown guy built buy ... WHO?????!!!!

If I had the money, it would have been a standard deck height 59* race block. Standard cam journal.

 

[KYCharger72]

Well I've been busy all day trying to really nail something down on the motor build. I've spent some more time looking into what's going to be best working together and what is possible with the 318. But first off to answer about my budget, I don't really have one. I'm not rich but I can gain parts at a steady pace but don't plan on having the car done by spring or anything. I want it done believe me, but I'd rather have what I really want than budget the build and go back for more later. But so far here's what I come up with... the 4.070 bore is suppose to be possible but needs testing and checking to take that much off. But I still won't get a compression ratio where I want it to do a forced induction. So I've decided to do the 390 stroker motor so I can run 65cc heads and put myself at about 9.5 compression. Here is my parts list as of now...

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/esp-434040006123

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sca-26123

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/icon-ic847-030-forged-dish-pistons-3940-bore.html

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crn-699691

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-21400010

http://www.jegs.com/i/KB-Performance-Pistons/648/3910BD8.030/10002/-1

I am planning on running a 65cc aluminum head of course but I don't know who to go with or what will be best. The I'm going to run a dyer's supercharger but I don't know wether to use a 6-71 or 8-71 and which carbs to use... I believe this should work well together, yes?

 

[rumblefish360]

I am unsure of the lifters. It know nothing about them. There is a possible it says with the lifters oil band coming up to high and dropping oil pressure big time.

What are those con-rods rates to in HP?

 

[KYCharger72]

I am unsure of the lifters. It know nothing about them. There is a possible it says with the lifters oil band coming up to high and dropping oil pressure big time.

What are those con-rods rates to in HP?

I wasn't 100% sure about the lifters, but that's what I found was suppose to go with the cam of course and then with the engine, but if there's any other suggestions I'll gladly take them. This will be my first hydraulic roller cam so the lifters are foreign to me as well. As for the connecting rods I don't see any specific power rating, but I did go with the forged 4340 though, I would think they should hold work being that I'm going to be running higher rpms.

 

[rumblefish360]

Your building an engine that may very well exceed the power limits of the rods. CHECK!
Your also nearing the limits of the block. Your tune has got to be spot on, machine work excellent, all assembled with excellence.
Although the RPM heads hamper output in a huge way. In a way, your building a big block with small block heads expecting big, big block power.

Your extremely confusing.

 

[moper]

I would suggest if you have to buy the parts as finances are available, you not worry about the engine for some time and you use that time to research how they work, how to make them work better, and what the small block Mopar specifically needs to live at the levels you are considering. Dreaming's nice, but reality is where we live.

 

[MrJLR]

Without a doubt, the FIRST thing is the heads, then a stroker kit....you'll be over 400hp easy right there...then the sky (or wallet) is the limit.

Jeff